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SB-00079 Hammer Holder STL

JeffPeters said:
I'm no pro, but trying to come up with fun easy ways to learn how to model and use my new 3d printer. I know a few people have asked if there are any stl's for the hammer holder so I thought it 'd be fun to attempt.

Hammer Holder


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Like it, printed one out this weekend. Had to add supports. Think about adding mounting holes to avoid having to drill piece. Very good first attempt and better than I could do. What CAD pkg did you use?
 
Thank you Jeff!

I'm mostly illiterate when it comes to 3D printing, can anyone educate me on good choices for materials if I were to have this printed?

BTW, someone mentioned in another thread that the Van's hammer holder appears to have been printed with selective laser sintering. I ran quotes for Jeff's part with that process through one of the online printing places and they quoted $99 so perhaps Van's part isn't so overpriced for what you get. But there has to be a cheaper but still adequate process/material, right?

As Paul Harvey said, "enquiring minds want to know". :)

Dave
 
docjjrmd said:
Like it, printed one out this weekend. Had to add supports. Think about adding mounting holes to avoid having to drill piece. Very good first attempt and better than I could do. What CAD pkg did you use?
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Thanks! My next iteration is try to add some countersink holes to it. Unfortunately my printer has decided everything is going to come out in a spiderweb mess. I'm assuming I need to dry my filament, so ordered a dryer to see if that fixes it. Once I get it worked out i'll work on improving the model.

I used Autodesk Fusion - its free for personal use but like all autodesk products comes with a learning curve. They do have a video series on youtube that shows you how to model a fishing reel that was very helpful to get the basics down.

Thermos said:
Thank you Jeff!

I'm mostly illiterate when it comes to 3D printing, can anyone educate me on good choices for materials if I were to have this printed?

BTW, someone mentioned in another thread that the Van's part appears to have been printed with selective laser sintering. I ran quotes for that part and process through one of the online printing places and they quoted $99 so perhaps Van's part isn't so overpriced for what you get. But there has to be a cheaper but still adequate process/material, right?

As Paul Harvey said, "enquiring minds want to know". :)

Dave
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I'm the wrong person to answer that for sure. I've only had mine a few months and while it started off printing everything fine, now no matter what i use i'm getting a plastic mess. I think I need a dryer. I have some carbon fiber nylon I wanted to ultimate print it with. Its supposed to be very strong and high temperature resistent. But only got one print out before it started messing up.
 
JeffPeters said:
Thanks! My next iteration is try to add some countersink holes to it. Unfortunately my printer has decided everything is going to come out in a spiderweb mess. I'm assuming I need to dry my filament, so ordered a dryer to see if that fixes it. Once I get it worked out i'll work on improving the model.
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I'll throw in another option - the hammer's tungsten tip is relatively sharp. It might be nice to have guards on each side of the hammer's head, much like the one at the bottom, so it wouldn't be so easy to snag something on the tip and dislodge the hammer.

My $0.02. Thanks again for doing this!

Dave
 
JeffPeters said:
Thanks! My next iteration is try to add some countersink holes to it. Unfortunately my printer has decided everything is going to come out in a spiderweb mess. I'm assuming I need to dry my filament, so ordered a dryer to see if that fixes it. Once I get it worked out i'll work on improving the model.

I used Autodesk Fusion - its free for personal use but like all autodesk products comes with a learning curve. They do have a video series on youtube that shows you how to model a fishing reel that was very helpful to get the basics down.



I'm the wrong person to answer that for sure. I've only had mine a few months and while it started off printing everything fine, now no matter what i use i'm getting a plastic mess. I think I need a dryer. I have some carbon fiber nylon I wanted to ultimate print it with. Its supposed to be very strong and high temperature resistent. But only got one print out before it started messing up.
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If you are getting spaghetti with all different kinds of filament, drying may not be your problem.

Nylon can be challenging to print.

You might try ASA as t is fairly strong , withstands higher temps better and is UV resistant.
 
rocketman1988 said:
If you are getting spaghetti with all different kinds of filament, drying may not be your problem.

Nylon can be challenging to print.

You might try ASA as t is fairly strong , withstands higher temps better and is UV resistant.
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Thanks, I see i can get it also CF reinforced. I ordered some and will give it a try.

The first print I did with the nylon came out about 90% correct. The subsequent ones print fine for about 2min then I get spider webs and a mess but from what I'm reading its extremely hydrophobic and needs to be kept in a dryer even while printing.

The other filament I tried was some PETG i had lying around but its a couple months old and I only had it store in a ziplock, and I could hear it popping so assumed it also needs drying. I have some PLA but didn't try it.
 
JeffPeters said:
Thanks, I see i can get it also CF reinforced. I ordered some and will give it a try.

The first print I did with the nylon came out about 90% correct. The subsequent ones print fine for about 2min then I get spider webs and a mess but from what I'm reading its extremely hydrophobic and needs to be kept in a dryer even while printing.

The other filament I tried was some PETG i had lying around but its a couple months old and I only had it store in a ziplock, and I could hear it popping so assumed it also needs drying. I have some PLA but didn't try it.
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Yeah, nylon can be challenging. Out of curiosity, are you located in a humid climate?

Just wondering because here in Indiana, I have a dryer but haven’t really used it an my prints have been consistently very good. I am using a Bambu P1S and mainly Sunlu and Bambu filament. I did try a spool of elegoo and it worked pretty well, too.
 
rocketman1988 said:
Yeah, nylon can be challenging. Out of curiosity, are you located in a humid climate?

Just wondering because here in Indiana, I have a dryer but haven’t really used it an my prints have been consistently very good. I am using a Bambu P1S and mainly Sunlu and Bambu filament. I did try a spool of elegoo and it worked pretty well, too.
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Yes, near the Outer Banks NC... 81% today.
 
Spaghetti threads....about 1 out of 6 or 7 prints for me now. Usually related to temps. Make sure you are using the appropriate extruder temp for the material chosen. Generally the harder the material the higher the temp required. Some materials are more hydrophobic than others. Where I live humidity for storage is an issue with some of the more exotic fibers including any of the CF or Glass varieties. I use the cereal keeper with a desiccant bag method for storage. Filament that is too wet running a high nozzle temps boils the water out and thus skips and doesn't like to adhere to itself. (Plumbing analogy, soldering copper pipe joints nearly impossible with water in pipe). Second area where temps make a difference is plate adhesion. Again use the temp suggested for filament material. I've set things up and left it running only to come back and found material warping and project knocked off plate by printhead. I use a plate adhesive about 90% of the time, though I know others that rarely use it, YMMV. Grab a temperature bridge model and print with the various temps/materials as specified in your slicer. That will help you adjust extruder temps. I use a lot of PLA to prototype with, cheap, easy to use, low temp, not overly hydrophobic. Once I am happy with project, change to final filament adjust temps and give it a go.
 
JeffPeters said:
Yes, near the Outer Banks NC... 81% today.
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Nylon is going to be a challenge for sure. The cheap dryers won’t get warm enough either. They work for pla and related but are some 30-50C too cold for the advanced plastics. I use one to keep the pa6 warm and dry during printing but have to use other means to actually dry it.

You’ll probably need to either use the heat bed+box to dry the filament or buy an oven to dry the filament.

I did have a sudden spaghetti issue that was caused by a system update. Somehow it lost that I was using a 0.4mm nozzle instead of a 0.6 and would spaghetti every print at some point with every material. Pla would take longer but nylon would usually start stringing before the 3rd layer. Double checking all the settings fixed it.
 
You can eliminate drying by storing your filaments in sealed containers with a bunch of discant bags to control moisture. I keep my NylonX-CF, PVAs, and Flex in Printdry vacuum sealed containers with humidity and temp meters and discant bags for really hygroscopic filaments. Some materials like NylonX-CF are very abrasive on a brass nozzle and will enlarge the typical 0.4mm opening. Hardened steel or better yet, a ruby nozzle will fix that problem. As I have learned over the years, there is a lot of junk filament out there that results in garbage prints no matter what you do. I pretty much stick with Prusa brand for PLA, PETG, ASA, and PC Blends; Matterhackers for Nylon-X-CF/GF, PVAs, Flex. The PrusaSlicer software has a filament setting library of name brand filament materials that are already optimized. For high temp filaments you absolutely need an enclosure.
 
I always applaud any DIY save money solutions!

That said, the hammer has some heft to it. In a 10G accident, will the hammer dislodge? Two problems with that: 1) now you can't find it (or reach it) and/or 2) it hits you.

This is the voice of experience speaking... in a race car accident my fire extinguisher (using a plastic mount) broke loose and hit me on the shoulder. Photo prior to the write-off.
LaPlante-Rabbit-Racing.jpg
 
I printed up the hammer mount, using TSAG’s mount, and I am very happy with his design. I did mine in PETG, without any problems.

IMG_1750.jpeg

The hammers were bought on Amazon for $18.99 for two. There is a few different colors.

OUDEW 2 Packs Car Safety Hammer, Car Glass Breaker with Seat Belt Cutter, Automotive Escape Tool, Metal Window Breaker, Emergecy Safety Hammer for Accidents (Gold)

Brian
 
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Pdtofly said:
OUDEW 2 Packs Car Safety Hammer, Car Glass Breaker with Seat Belt Cutter, Automotive Escape Tool, Metal Window Breaker, Emergecy Safety Hammer for Accidents (Gold)
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That's the same brand as I received from Van's.

Can anyone recommend a good online place for 3D printing? I don't have a printer, or have access to one.

Dave
 
Thermos said:
That's the same brand as I received from Van's.

Can anyone recommend a good online place for 3D printing? I don't have a printer, or have access to one.

Dave
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Dave,

Try your local Community Collage or University that has an Engineering Program. They normally have a few decent 3D printers. Simple find one of their students who has access to the lab, and ask if they can print it up for you.

Maybe help them out by supplying the filament and let them keep the remaining after they print up a few for you. A 1KG roll on Amazon around $20 to $50 depending on the type of filament. I used PETG for mine. There might be a better filament to handle heat. Don't use PLA as with a little heat, then will get soft and deform easily.

It can be a win, win for both of you.

Brian
 
Thanks for you 3D design. It prints out very well and the hammer snaps in place.
Ron Earp said:
tsaG said:
Hi, I uploaded my model to makerworld. I also added one version that allows to secure the Hammer with a velcro strap to protect it from (unintentionally) being launched through the canopy during a crash. Click

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Thank you for your design. The holder fits perfectly.
 

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