RV-6 Engine baffle kit

[ccsmith51]

Since the cowl is off until a new exhaust arrives, I have decided to install new engine baffles. I am considering ordering the Van's baffle set BAF360. Are there any surprises with that kit, or does it pretty much fall into place?

Also, they offer the EA OIL COOLER II kit to mount the oil cooler behind the number 4 cylinder. Right now my cooler is mounted to the firewall and air is directed to it via SCAT. Any way to tell if my oil cooler will work with this system? Is there an advantage to moving it off the firewall?

Thanks,

 

[Randy]

Chris,

I am finally nearing the end of installing the BAFIO360 baffle kit from Vans. It certainly did not fall together but the kit itself is very good when you consider how things would be if you were starting with blank sheets of aluminum.

The directions are a little deceiving as it seems that they get back in to hand holding mode with detailed step by step directions, but that is a bit of a trap. You really need to study all the photos you can find and read the directions through several times to get some understanding of how the air seal is actually achieved at the interface of the cowl halves up front.

In your case, with a working example in front of you to refer to, things should go much easier.

Randall in Sedona

 

[plehrke]

I have my oil cooler on the firewall with 3" scat tube feeding air from behind cylinder #4 like yours. I have a Positech P20004c cooler. I get very little cooling during the summer, maybe 5 degrees. I believe it is due to the Positech cooler though and not the firewall installation. I typically fly locally and cross countries starting at dawn. I almost never fly in the summer afternoons so the poor cooler performance has never been an issue. i may some day switch out for a Stewart Warner.

 

[BillL]

Since the cowl is off until a new exhaust arrives, I have decided to install new engine baffles. I am considering ordering the Van's baffle set BAF360. Are there any surprises with that kit, or does it pretty much fall into place?

Also, they offer the EA OIL COOLER II kit to mount the oil cooler behind the number 4 cylinder. Right now my cooler is mounted to the firewall and air is directed to it via SCAT. Any way to tell if my oil cooler will work with this system? Is there an advantage to moving it off the firewall?

Thanks,

I am going to sound like an experienced builder, but not the case. Anyway, if the system was keeping the oil cool like it was, why change it?

If you are going to change, what cooler is it? You can get the flange dimensions from various websites including Niagra(SP). Consider the hoses, and the fact that if you have to reorient the fittings, they may not move and will require a new cooler anyway. If you move it to the baffles, then search and find Paul Dyes comments on his re-baffle task and see the modifications needed to keep the baffles from cracking around the cooler. I think he has the best summary.

If your bird has oil cooling limitations in it's current configuration, then all this is worth the trouble. Just my 2 cents.

I was considering installing my cooler remote for better cooling (as i install the baffles). I finally concluded to keep the stock cooler and location, on the baffle and and all should be just fine. But in the process, all the considerations of cooling, ducting, hose length/routing cooler fittings etc came into play. IN many hours of searching I could not find solid evidence that the firewall location was better, and in many instances it needed a bigger cooler to be equal. The installation design makes a difference. With attention to baffle reinforcement, the baffle seemed to be the best place for cooler performance, (if it is mounted high and the bottom is not blocked by the head) but not for installation of an air flow valve for winter blockage. Just my conclusions, others will vary.

 

[JonJay]

The stock location mounted on the baffle seems to be the best for cooling. Additional support beyond the stock kit is necessary to prevent cracking and most fill in the area that joggles back behind #4 to allow the back baffle material to make a straight shot across the back. All easy mods.
Do a quick search as all of that has been discussed a lot in the past.

Also, why trash your old baffles? Is it all unusable or bad? There is nothing magic about it, all simple sheet and angle and you might be able to repair.

 

[ccsmith51]

Also, why trash your old baffles? Is it all unusable or bad? There is nothing magic about it, all simple sheet and angle and you might be able to repair.

The existing baffles are modified from the 172 that the engine came out of. They suffice, but are not as sealed as I like. Since I have it all apart to replace the exhaust, and since a new baffle kit is not terribly expensive, and from what I understand they seal around the engine well, I thought it made sense to install the proper parts. So, I was trying to get a feel for how difficult the install is....

 

[Mel]

If your present oil cooler is doing it's job, I recommend that you don't change it. Mine has been flying great since 1993 with the cooler mounted on the firewall.

 

[rvbuilder2002]

If your present oil cooler is doing it's job, I recommend that you don't change it. Mine has been flying great since 1993 with the cooler mounted on the firewall.

I agree with Mel.
If you know that your oil cooling is already working well (have flown the airplane in hot temp.), it will only get better if replacing the baffling resolves leaks that you currently have.

BTW, the newest designs from Van's (RV-10, and now RV-14) have the oil cooler mounted remotely, not on the engine baffling.