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RV-15 #150046 (Empennage Kit)
- Thread starter MCA
- Start date
great news Marc.I just got a phone call too from Vans. Tail kit shipping tomorrow. Wing kit still not definite on a 6/01 ship date.
I still remember when I got my -8 tail kit. Came via FedEx in a couple of not too large cardboard boxes. This one looks a lot bigger.
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Congratulations Marc! Quick keyboard skills!
Looks like the two Northern Nevada tail kits will be ready for pickup this Friday. (We both ordered in the first four minutes.)
simpsontl48
Active Member
Best of luck to all the new builders. Hopefully you can find reasonably priced engines. I had to terminate for that reason. Joining many others in that group with that very serious problem.
Curious about this as well ... with kits out there now, there is nothing on the web store?
Unpacking. Took about 45 minutes to inventory everything. 100% of parts accounted for.
HS front and aft spars, upper and lower HS skins.
Various sub-kits, including the LE skins just below the tackle box.
HS skins
Rudder and VS skin
Elevator subkit:
HS kit:
Rudder kit:
Misc hardware:
HS front and aft spars, upper and lower HS skins.
Various sub-kits, including the LE skins just below the tackle box.
HS skins
Rudder and VS skin
Elevator subkit:
HS kit:
Rudder kit:
Misc hardware:
Attachments
Finally got started in earnest on the tail kit. I'm doing them in the order that Louise suggests: easiest to less easiest. They all appear to be pretty straightforward. So... the first kit is the rudder, then the VS.
The rudder and VS parts were prepped together. I like to do all the countersinking, drilling, reaming, etc. - where able - at the start, prior to priming.
Countersinking the spar (without the cage installed due to clearance issues).
Added the roll (edge break) to the front of the rudder before installing any stringers.
Test fitting the countersinks for the rear spar caps on the VS:
I use a handy jig to test the countersink depth, which is slightly larger than a countersink for a 426 rivet.
And prepping the rear spar doubler for the VS:
The holes in the powder-coated parts need to be drilled out to full size. For some reason, the four mounting holes here are #30 but are called out for #19 drill. No big deal as it is easy to drill them larger.
Parts are prepped for priming using PreKote.
Got the notice from Van's about possible issues with a small batch of the rudder skins. The notice lists the trailing edge and bend on the front of the rudder skin. Both checked out OK.
And I now check all the rivets for proper length before using:
The rudder and VS parts were prepped together. I like to do all the countersinking, drilling, reaming, etc. - where able - at the start, prior to priming.
Countersinking the spar (without the cage installed due to clearance issues).
Added the roll (edge break) to the front of the rudder before installing any stringers.
Test fitting the countersinks for the rear spar caps on the VS:
I use a handy jig to test the countersink depth, which is slightly larger than a countersink for a 426 rivet.
And prepping the rear spar doubler for the VS:
The holes in the powder-coated parts need to be drilled out to full size. For some reason, the four mounting holes here are #30 but are called out for #19 drill. No big deal as it is easy to drill them larger.
Parts are prepped for priming using PreKote.
Got the notice from Van's about possible issues with a small batch of the rudder skins. The notice lists the trailing edge and bend on the front of the rudder skin. Both checked out OK.
And I now check all the rivets for proper length before using:
For the rudder spar, the factory rivet heads are on the outside (forward facing side). They are somewhat visible, and the shop heads match the nut plates' location.
I used a micrometer and eyeball measurements to set the bearing center distance. Is there a better way to do this?
For both the rudder and VS, it was easier to buck many of the rivets than to constantly readjust the squeezer. The rudder horn had some tight clearances, which made bucking (for me) a necessity.
Following Louise's advice, my wife helped to hold the rudder open while I added Dowsil 737 to the ends of the internal stringers. The idea is to use a small blob of goop (Proseal, etc.) to minimize vibration and reduce the chance of cracking. Put the goop at very deepest part where the two strings almost meet.
Rudder was done in less than a day!
I used a micrometer and eyeball measurements to set the bearing center distance. Is there a better way to do this?
For both the rudder and VS, it was easier to buck many of the rivets than to constantly readjust the squeezer. The rudder horn had some tight clearances, which made bucking (for me) a necessity.
Following Louise's advice, my wife helped to hold the rudder open while I added Dowsil 737 to the ends of the internal stringers. The idea is to use a small blob of goop (Proseal, etc.) to minimize vibration and reduce the chance of cracking. Put the goop at very deepest part where the two strings almost meet.
Rudder was done in less than a day!
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The VS went together just as easily. I was a little confused reading the instructions ahead of time, but once you have the parts, it all lines up nicely. The long, thin rear spar caps (two of them) have a bend to them, but straighten out once installed.
The KAIs did not call out for any fluting on the ribs, but there is some curvature and warped metal, so it made sense to lightly flute the main rib and nose rib flanges.
It was almost silly how easily all this went together. Kudos to the engineers and manufacturing folks at Van's.
There are many different sizes of solid rivets used, and again, I found it easier to just buck the rivets rather than repeatedly adjust and test the squeezer. YMMV. As with the rudder, the factory rivet heads were aligned on the aft side of the VS where they can be seen.
The KAIs did not call out for any fluting on the ribs, but there is some curvature and warped metal, so it made sense to lightly flute the main rib and nose rib flanges.
It was almost silly how easily all this went together. Kudos to the engineers and manufacturing folks at Van's.
There are many different sizes of solid rivets used, and again, I found it easier to just buck the rivets rather than repeatedly adjust and test the squeezer. YMMV. As with the rudder, the factory rivet heads were aligned on the aft side of the VS where they can be seen.
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Frog Hobson
Member
And on the second day, the VS was finished. Really, these go fast. You could get both done in two days. Priming added another day to the build.
There aren't many learnings to share; this was pretty straightforward. So, below are some images, if it helps anyone, and a few thoughts on a few things.
The KAIs describe a sequence for clecoing on the skin. It seemed odd to me at first but it works.
And... done!
The forward rivet does pinch a bit on both sides, leading me to believe a tighter LE bend would be good.
This is the squeezer yoke that works for all the perimeter rivets on the skin.
We'll fill the rivet holes with SuperFil, then on to the elevators and HS.
There aren't many learnings to share; this was pretty straightforward. So, below are some images, if it helps anyone, and a few thoughts on a few things.
The KAIs describe a sequence for clecoing on the skin. It seemed odd to me at first but it works.
And... done!
The forward rivet does pinch a bit on both sides, leading me to believe a tighter LE bend would be good.
This is the squeezer yoke that works for all the perimeter rivets on the skin.
We'll fill the rivet holes with SuperFil, then on to the elevators and HS.
