RV-14 Taildragger Wing Install Tips

[Meat]

Hi All,

Building an RV-14 taildragger here and getting prepped for wing installation. I’m thinking it through first so it goes smoothly and I don’t waste my helpers time. It seems that the install would be easier with the fuselage in the 2-point attitude with the fuselage and wing spars nearly vertical. I plan on having the wings prepositioned laying on padded sawhorses. If the fuselage is in the 3-point attitude then the wing leading edge would need to be lifted up quite a bit to get the spars to align. Since it’s probably gonna take some wiggling and rocking to get the close tolerance bolts in, having the wings relatively flat during that process vs lifting up the leading edge would seem easier. Or maybe not. I’ve never done it before.

If anyone has any advice on how to position the fuselage and any techniques to get it all aligned, the bolts in and just making life easier, I’d appreciate it. Thanks for your time.

Cheers,

Scott Davis

 

[Ron B.]

Hi All,

Building an RV-14 taildragger here and getting prepped for wing installation. I’m thinking it through first so it goes smoothly and I don’t waste my helpers time. It seems that the install would be easier with the fuselage in the 2-point attitude with the fuselage and wing spars nearly vertical. I plan on having the wings prepositioned laying on padded sawhorses. If the fuselage is in the 3-point attitude then the wing leading edge would need to be lifted up quite a bit to get the spars to align. Since it’s probably gonna take some wiggling and rocking to get the close tolerance bolts in, having the wings relatively flat during that process vs lifting up the leading edge would seem easier. Or maybe not. I’ve never done it before.

If anyone has any advice on how to position the fuselage and any techniques to get it all aligned, the bolts in and just making life easier, I’d appreciate it. Thanks for your time.

Cheers,

Scott Davis

I built two 14’s. One a 14A the other a 14. I would and did lift the tail to make the wings flat for handling. I also had them on sawhorses nearby. Get the proper length hardware store bolts , 3/8” diameter and cut off the threads. Taper the end and smooth them (4) out on your deburring wheel. You don’t want to make scratches in the holes. Make sure these hardware bolts slide in both spars easily. Your supplied wing attach bolts are interference fit ( a bit larger in diameter).
Make sure you lubricate the pins you made ( hardware bolts) well. These pins will go in much easier than the interference fit bolts. The pins will also hold the wings in place while you take your time and install the final bolts. Lubricate the final bolts also, I use Boelube , and it only takes a few drops. After the pins are in, you can wiggle the wing as your installing the final bolts. Once the finish bolts are in take out the pins and install the final bolts in those holes.
I made the mistake when installing the spar bolts on our RV-10, of assuming that torque ing the bolts to specified torque would bottom out the heads on the spar. Only noticed that a couple were not on condition inspection a year later. I now take a brass drift and tap on the heads carefully to ensure they are.
One last thing, a few extra hands really comes in handy for this job. Done properly, doesn’t take long. I would like four guys. They do the lifting, I do the alignment and pins.
Good luck.

 

[Meat]

I built two 14’s. One a 14A the other a 14. I would and did lift the tail to make the wings flat for handling. I also had them on sawhorses nearby. Get the proper length hardware store bolts , 3/8” diameter and cut off the threads. Taper the end and smooth them (4) out on your deburring wheel. You don’t want to make scratches in the holes. Make sure these hardware bolts slide in both spars easily. Your supplied wing attach bolts are interference fit ( a bit larger in diameter).
Make sure you lubricate the pins you made ( hardware bolts) well. These pins will go in much easier than the interference fit bolts. The pins will also hold the wings in place while you take your time and install the final bolts. Lubricate the final bolts also, I use Boelube , and it only takes a few drops. After the pins are in, you can wiggle the wing as your installing the final bolts. Once the finish bolts are in take out the pins and install the final bolts in those holes.
I made the mistake when installing the spar bolts on our RV-10, of assuming that torque ing the bolts to specified torque would bottom out the heads on the spar. Only noticed that a couple were not on condition inspection a year later. I now take a brass drift and tap on the heads carefully to ensure they are.
One last thing, a few extra hands really comes in handy for this job. Done properly, doesn’t take long. I would like four guys. They do the lifting, I do the alignment and pins.
Good luck.

Ron,
Thanks so much for all your time and tips. A lot of great info. One other question, with only 1 wing installed does that wing need to be supported while installing the other wing? Can the weight and moment arm of one wing tip the fuselage or cause it to lean excessively?

Scott

 

[Ron B.]

Does not need support, plane will sit fine with one wing only ( don’t try to fly that way!!!)
Your welcome.

 

[Jetmart]

You may want to tie the the tail down when in the two point position. Tail is very light with the wings off.

 

[KeithB]

On advice from others, I put my wing bolts in the freezer for a day prior to wing attach - the theory being they shrink and even a thousandth makes a difference.