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RV-10 Cowling installation with Skybolts

bhoppe2

Member
I should have made this decision a little earlier, but I just decided to install my stock cowling with Skybolts instead of the piano hinges.

I had an EAA Tech Counselor visit this week and he reminded me that people have had trouble with the bottom piano hinge breaking over time. He had built an RV-10 and had that problem. I say I should have made the decision to use Skybolts earlier because I have all the piano hinges riveted to the firewall and do not look forward to removing all those rivets...although at this point I have plenty of experience removing rivets.

I have the top and bottom cowling fitted to the firewall, but have not trimmed the side joint lines. One concern is that there is virtually no or little overlap to trim. Any tips on finishing the cowling fitting or installing the Skybolts would be appreciated.

Anyway, one benefit of my late decision is that Skybolt gave me a 20% discount on the complete package. I guess it must be a Pre-Sun N' Fun special.
 
I used skybolt fasteners on the 10 and both 8's I built however only on the top cowling. I use the piano hinge to part the cowlings and the virtical lower piano hinge at the firewall. For the bottom firwall I use three -8 nutplates on each side. I have never had a problem with cracking using this method.

My 2 cents
 
I have SkyBolts all around on my 7 with SJ Cowl.

You now have the option to only use the SB on the lower section of the cowl, or go all the way with the SB's.

There are several threads on fitting of the SB. I have a thread with one method and recently Robert Williams posted another method. Both methods can yield a very accurately located fastener.

Use the search function on here for thread with "Skybolt" in the search box.

Good luck with your selected path.
 
Did the same thing

We switched to sky bolts after already having the hinges in place... no big deal, drill out the hinges and then use those same holes for the sky bolt flange or make you're own flange. It's a lengthy process, but, the instructions that come with the kit are very thorough. Using a light inside the cowl to line up the holes is brilliant. If I had it to do over again, I might run them down the sides well, those hinges really S#&%! when they are new, but they look cleaner.......
 
I have skybolts all around my cowling and hinges on the horizontal parting line.

I used all floating skybolts. It floats a bit too much, so you'd be better off using a couple fixed ones on each cowl half to keep things in place. This was recommended by the Skybolt guy, unfortunately after had I already installed mine.

On the bottom of the cowling there's a lot of vibration that breaks the hinge eyelets, and it also moves the skybolts around and they are starting to slowly work themselves into the paint, after only 130 hours. You may be better off with nutplates there.

If you use hinges get the ones that are extruded, MS20001P. The are way stronger at the eyelet root area. I glued them to the cowling with Plexus acrylic adhesive to keep the rivets from working through the fiberglass from vibration.

Lenny
 
I have skybolts on the upper cowl only, both firewall and the top-bottom seam. Used hinges on the lower cowl at the firewall on sides. Like everyone advises, I used nutplates on the bottom Seems to work fine this way.
 
I used skybolt fasteners on the 10 and both 8's I built however only on the top cowling. I use the piano hinge to part the cowlings and the virtical lower piano hinge at the firewall. For the bottom firwall I use three -8 nutplates on each side. I have never had a problem with cracking using this method.

My 2 cents

Ditto and I would do it again this way. Clean installation (no Skybolts visible from the side of the aircraft), tight, easy to remove, and avoids the headaches associated with the top hinge. The horizontal and vertical hinges aren't a problem if you take your time and do a nice install.
 
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