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Rudder stops

They too require some craftsmanship. I've long felt they were not near as good structurally as the standard external stops, but so far no one has torn out a hinge.
 
hobofish said:
need to replace my rudder stoppers long story short my rudder was punctured and thanks to new friend on here i was able to get a new rudder. now the stoppers need to be replaced. i dont know how to make them nor do i have the skill to do so. i found these internal rudder stoppers any thoughts on them? https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/internal-rudder-stop
RV7A
-thanks
Click to expand...
Have worked very well on my 14A for 600 hrs. Won't replace gust locks.
 
I bought one. Then made three more before I got it perfect. Not easy, or maybe I'm challenged.
 
hobofish said:
need to replace my rudder stoppers long story short my rudder was punctured and thanks to new friend on here i was able to get a new rudder. now the stoppers need to be replaced. i dont know how to make them nor do i have the skill to do so. i found these internal rudder stoppers any thoughts on them? https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/internal-rudder-stop
RV7A
-thanks
Click to expand...
I edited the title of your thread to make it more technically correct. I think stoppers are something you put in bottles. :)
 
I've used them (and a knock off I made with a cutting board) on my -7's, and the -14 builds; love em. The only change I would suggest is to mount them in between the VS-410-PP halves instead of as shown on the website. This will require some pre-fit, templating work to get the holes to line up.

Edit: added a picture of the installation.

IMG_1733.jpeg
 
Last edited:
bjdecker said:
I've used them (and a knock off I made with a cutting board) on my -7's, and the -14 builds; love em. The only change I would suggest is to mount them in between the VS-410-PP halves instead of as shown on the website. This will require some pre-fit, templating work to get the holes to line up.

Edit: added a picture of the installation.

View attachment 78433
Click to expand...
Ditto.

These have worked very well for 1000 hours. However, they needed some fine-tuning on the flat parts that contact the rudder spar. It was a slow, careful, steady process of fitting, testing, marking, removing, sanding, repeat, to get the spar to contact the *full face* of the flat, instead of one of the corners only (which IMO would induce way too much stress at a single point, and wasn't how they were designed). I think it's because each installation can be *just a little bit* different in terms of how far from the VS rear spar the rudder spar is, using the rod ends, and that affects the required location of the stop/flat faces.

But they have worked great for me!
 
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