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Removing bolt that red thread lock was used
- Thread starter Webb
- Start date
Localized heat to 250C is what the MDS says
I would but plastics too close. Maybe soldering iron would work. Solvent is what I would like to use.
Toobuilder
Well Known Member
How about a wrench?
A web search says this:
No solvent will reliably break a bonded red Loctite joint; heat is required. Red Loctite (high‑strength threadlocker) is designed to resist chemicals, so solvents help only after disassembly or on exposed surfaces.
Good luck,
Paul
No solvent will reliably break a bonded red Loctite joint; heat is required. Red Loctite (high‑strength threadlocker) is designed to resist chemicals, so solvents help only after disassembly or on exposed surfaces.
- Red Loctite requires localized heat above 250 °C (≈550 °F) to break the bond. This is the manufacturer’s official guidance.
- Without heat, even aggressive solvents cannot penetrate the cured polymer inside the threads
Good luck,
Paul
+1
Find a way to protect the soft stuff. Getting out a bolt with red is extremely difficult without 450-500* of heat. And that is the heat deep in the threads. No way a heat gun or soldering iron is going to get it there. They do make propane torch heads that have a fine pointed flame and this may help in your case.
Jjackh10
Well Known Member
There's a heat sink putty that welders use occasionally to protect adjacent things. Depending on the Op's specific situation that might be an option?
Show us a picture or explain. I've never had a "bolt" that wouldn't wrench out simply from red locktite . A screw on the other hand can be drilled and an easy out used.
I suppose it depends. I had a set of Diff cover bolts that had red loctite on them. Went at them agressively with an 18" breaker bar and no joy. I assumed they were seized with rust and got them out with heat. Was afraid an impact would snap the heads off. That is when I saw the loctite evidence and learned that Chevy uses red on them. I have also had success breaking it free in other cases. Unsure what the variables are here.
One needs to be cautious here, as if the fastener is not strong enough or operator can't get a good enough grip on head, bad things can happen. Easy outs are likely not strong enough to break the bond without heat either. Red should be avoided when heat is difficult to apply for removal. It is special stuff and should only be used wher blue can't get the job done and is truly required.
Second recommendation that OP post a pic.
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Same here. Must have been assembled with surgical-clean threads.
It’s a 1/4” flush hex screw that is also the shaft of a crank handle of a hand wheel. Only wrench you’re getting on it is an hex wrench. The plastic handle rotates on a shaft of the screw. I can apply heat but a hot screw shaft will contact the plastic. No way to protect the plastic.
If I was to heat it, I would insert a hex wrench and torch that.
Chlorinated brake cleaner is a solvent and from what research I’ve found so far, will wick threads like Liquid Wrench.
I’m not in the shop right now but here is a picture off the net this is what it looks like. The handle is intended for reuse.
If I was to heat it, I would insert a hex wrench and torch that.
Chlorinated brake cleaner is a solvent and from what research I’ve found so far, will wick threads like Liquid Wrench.
I’m not in the shop right now but here is a picture off the net this is what it looks like. The handle is intended for reuse.
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Well, that changes the dynamics a bit! I'm thinking RV aircraft materials...you have a cast iron machine crank wheel. Slight abuse may be tolerable and more barbaric measures taken ! Bring on the heat and thunder.
I could but all I’m interested in is reshaping the crank handle by shortening it and making it more knob shaped. It should be done with a hand grinder but turning it on the lathe would be better.
Since its tool related, I figured the brain trust might have a solution.
red loctite will not break down from brake cleaner. that stuff is impervious to pretty much anything once cured.
