Van's Air Force

The definitive Van's Aircraft support community! Buying, building or flying an RV? Join our exclusive family of mentors and enthusiasts!

Relocating the Tip-Up Jettison Handle using RV-14 Kit (parts)

SilverEagle2

Well Known Member
Friend
So, I know that many opt to remove the jettison handle for several reasons, but I am not getting any younger, and down the road, if I wanted to remove the canopy without becoming a contortionist, I opted to "relocate" the handle vs removing it. I also wanted the free up the real estate in the center panel for a more traditional "center stack" as well as provide the means to open up the subpanel behind the stack. I did so using the RV-14 kit parts (not the full kit) to save on not having extra stuff I'd never use.

Reference OP-63 at Vansaircraft.com

Materials list:
First, I drilled the WD-619/C-620/WD-618-1-PC assembly using the TOOL-00092. This sets the right drill angles for reversing the handle direction.

IMG_0152.jpg

Next was the trimming of the F-697 Channel to remove interference with the future hole in the F-768 Subpanel for a center stack, as well as the direction reverse of the WD-619. I also removed a bit more material on the C-620 Bearing Block to clear the pivoting hardware and Release Links (the listed dimensions didn't seem to clear even the stock setup). I also located and cutout the clearance reliefs in the F-697 and F-643-1 for the bolt and right-hand Release Link.

IMG_0160.jpg

Next, the critical dimension to find/set is the placement of the F-14193 and where it goes on the F-643-1 FWD Fuselage Channel. I determined mine to be 5 1/16" aft of the firewall to the forward edge of the F-14193, centered on the web (or so) from top to bottom. This then created the 4 1/2" gap needed from the mounting hole for the cable/clamp to the rear position stop location of the WD-618-1, allowing for the cable sleeve length called for in the OP-63 plans.

IMG_0166.jpg

Because of the direction of the assembly pivot "reversing", the lengths of the C-621 and the C-622s "may" work, but since I was starting fresh, I measured and verified and determined that they needed to be longer.

IMG_0168.jpg

The above was a snip from DWG 47, MODIFIED with my measured lengths (YMMV). I then tossed this and the material off to a machinist friend of mine who was dead nuts on accurate.

IMG_0192.jpg

With the WD-618-1-PC full AFT and just flush with the F-768 Subpanel hole for the original handle hardware, my AN43B-16 Release Pins are FULLY seated. Full FOWARD (the pulled cable position) the pins retract and clear the slot perfectly.

See the smooth action below:


Hopefully, if others desire to do the same, the above will help save you time and give you some ideas. Enjoy!
 
Option B is shorten and secure to the subpanel. Frees up panel space. (As long as you don't need access for acro)
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot 2024-08-06 131433.jpg
    Screenshot 2024-08-06 131433.jpg
    71.3 KB · Views: 72
  • Screenshot 2024-08-06 132407.jpg
    Screenshot 2024-08-06 132407.jpg
    114.7 KB · Views: 69
I’m about to upgrade my VFR only panel to full IFR. I have most everything apart and only recently became aware of the problem with the canopy release support bracket. (radio depth) This aircraft is/was already flying and I’m trying to wrap my mind around removing the previous fiasco and install what you have described here, to give me the depth I need for radios in the center of the panel.

As the aircraft is complete. If I did this retrofit would have to be upside down under the dash. If I removed the old bracket, how much room would there be from the bottom of the panel to the bottom of the newer replacement bracket?
 
I’m about to upgrade my VFR only panel to full IFR. I have most everything apart and only recently became aware of the problem with the canopy release support bracket. (radio depth) This aircraft is/was already flying and I’m trying to wrap my mind around removing the previous fiasco and install what you have described here, to give me the depth I need for radios in the center of the panel.

As the aircraft is complete. If I did this retrofit would have to be upside down under the dash. If I removed the old bracket, how much room would there be from the bottom of the panel to the bottom of the newer replacement bracket?
If you're talking about the hat-shaped channel behind the sub-panel...mine is simply cut off from the longer piece. There really isn't any need past the delrin block for more length from what I can see on the 14 version.

Once I get a bit farther...I will be cutting out the hole in the sub panel for radio stack depth needed with reinforcements along the sides of the hole made to shore it up.
 
Back
Top