I agree with rvtach
I just finished main canopy installation and can tell you what I learned.
1) Center of fore frame bow should be aligned with center of roll-bar NOT taking aside one of rails (you will have problems later fitting side skins and/or gap on corresponding aft bow joint where it clears aft top fuse skin), but bending more the longer bow (i.e.: if center of frame is towards copilot seat, you will have to bend more the pilot bow, thus shortening it and pulling the center of the frame in that direction);
2) don't cut forward bows (bottom part...where plastic wheels go) unless it is necessary for compensating for different heights of forward bows; otherwise, you will have to add temporary spacers when fitting windscreen;
3) try to achieve the distance from external part of side bows to fuselage skin projection (this distance is approx. 3/32'') only in the first part of the fuselage (from fore bows towards aft); if distance will be the same along the whole frame sides, you will have problems in sliding the frame/canopy, since aft bows will bump aft fuselage skin (I lost few labour hours for compensating this problem); when you go aft, distance will reduce until it becomes 0 approx. when aft bows join side bows;
AFT BOWS MADNESS:
4) don't jump hard on aft bows to bend them: they are fragile and you will obtain an acute angle, which will be difficult to recover (I lost a whole day for having met this problem);
5) vertical distance between side bows and fuse longerons (which should not vary for more than 4/32'' from fore to aft, according to manual) is obtained mainly playing with aft bows curve and shortening fore bows (the latter only after fitting windscreen with canopy); the more you bend one of the aft bows, the more distance will be achieved vertically from aft part of corresponding side bow and fuselage;
6) if you bend one of the aft bows, it will become shorter thus pulling the whole aft frame part in its direction, misaligning the aft center frame in respect with slide rail laying on the upper aft skin;
7) so, if you need to bend one of the aft bows (in order to let it rest at the same level or just above aft skeen profile: this is important for aft skirt fitting), you have to consider that the bigger section aft side of side bow bending will be prevailing in the fight against smaller section aft bow bending; this mean that bending aft bow will not spread side bow, but only adding bend in a single portion of aft bow and subtracting from another part; so, the best procedure for bending aft bow without misalignind the other parts is the following:
a) bend aft bow;
b) as a result, aft side bow distance will decrease AND center of the frame, at the aft part, will probably get misaligned;
c) so, to recover for this, you will have to elongate again the bow; since it will be useless to act on aft bow again (you will return to situation before stage a), you will have to enlarge SIDE bow (aft part of side bow): I managed to do this placing the frame on the selected side on a table, the fore bow (the big section one, less prone to get misaligned) on a chair [and my left foot on them] and right foot on aft bow, placing force on it in order to elongate it (i.e.: to let it go outside).
I lost approx. 20 labour hours for not having understood point #7. Manual only says that you have to think in three dimensions. Above is an explanation of what worked in my case.
Hope this helps.
Camillo