1. Step 17 on page 5 calls for safety wiring the lanyard cable bolt installed in the engine (SCREW-00007, fig. 5). What is the bolt head to be safety wired to? We don't see a good spot.
2. Regarding trimming of the openings in the lower cowling, the note after Step 10 on page 3 specifies " Final gap should be a min of 3/8 in.". As you can see in the picture (blue arrow points to cut line), there's not much flange left in the oil cooler opening if it's trimmed to a 3/8 in. gap. I just want to confirm that's correct before we cut.
Other than these questions, the installation has gone well. We chose option A, installation of the support bracket with solid rivets because it's a cleaner look, and we had a rivet gun. A flush rivet set worked fine. We used 40 lbs of air. Feathering the gun for about a one second burst gave a nice 3mm shop head (1.2 X Rivet diameter). On our bracket, the rivet holes were punched a little oversized, but they worked out okay.
2. Regarding trimming of the openings in the lower cowling, the note after Step 10 on page 3 specifies " Final gap should be a min of 3/8 in.". As you can see in the picture (blue arrow points to cut line), there's not much flange left in the oil cooler opening if it's trimmed to a 3/8 in. gap. I just want to confirm that's correct before we cut.
Other than these questions, the installation has gone well. We chose option A, installation of the support bracket with solid rivets because it's a cleaner look, and we had a rivet gun. A flush rivet set worked fine. We used 40 lbs of air. Feathering the gun for about a one second burst gave a nice 3mm shop head (1.2 X Rivet diameter). On our bracket, the rivet holes were punched a little oversized, but they worked out okay.
