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QB frustration - seems simple . . .

rjcthree

Well Known Member
All, I'm removing the phillips head screws (509's?)on the inside panels of my QB fuse. At least one per panel is so tight the phillips cams out - good, not worn driver. Anybody else have this problem? I'm really frustrated, and I can't get a good grip with the vice-grips due to the shape of the head. I haven't tried any PB blaster or WD yet. I'm not far from teh last resort: e-z out. Last last resort: drill 'em, drill platenuts out, use new platenuts. Don't want to go there!

Any ideas?

Rick 90432
 
use ratchet and good bits

I bought a package of good bits from home depot and a little mini-ratchet driver to hold them.

Allows you to get good pressure on the screw and work it gently to break it loose if it's really tight.

Sears sells a stripped screw extractor kit as well.

I have also fired up my dremel tool and cut a slot in the head to use a large slotted driver, if I can reach it.

Finally, if you do drill the head off, enough of the screw is usually sticking out on the back side to remove it with vise grips, so you won't need to replace the nut plates.

TIP to prevent future frustration.

1. Run a tap part way into the nut plates to "loosen" them just a bit before installing screws. (from the vans builder instructions)

2. Use boelube when installing the screws. :)



All, I'm removing the phillips head screws (509's?)on the inside panels of my QB fuse. At least one per panel is so tight the phillips cams out - good, not worn driver. Anybody else have this problem? I'm really frustrated, and I can't get a good grip with the vice-grips due to the shape of the head. I haven't tried any PB blaster or WD yet. I'm not far from teh last resort: e-z out. Last last resort: drill 'em, drill platenuts out, use new platenuts. Don't want to go there!

Any ideas?

Rick 90432
 
Not all vice-grips are created equal. I've got some small needle nose ones that seem to grip pretty well. Pretty sure they're name brand, and they have some nice "teeth" on them. The easy-out method isn't usually all that bad though, I've done it a time or two on the flush head screws. The phillips head makes for easy drilling.

Using a little Boelube on a new screw might solve the problem without tapping the nutplate. One application lasts forever, or at least until the nutplate itself loosens up.

Good luck!
 
Another method..

When I have stubborn screws here in the commercial world, I use a little bit of valve grinding (lapping) compound and a speed handle with a good bit. that way you can lean on it a bit and the compound forestalls the cam out.
Give her a shot!
 
Use a dremel cutoff wheel to cut a straight slot in screwhead for straight screwdriver to remove stubborn screws. Obviously discard and replace afterward.
 
Phillips screws suck

I hate Phillips screws. Wherever I can, I am replacing them with Allen head screws, for exactly the reason you described. I went to McMaster-Carr and bought a bunch. No, they're not AN, but I'm using them in applications where it won't matter, like holding access panels.
 
Rick I've had luck with trying to tighten phillips screws a tiny bit before trying to remove it. I also use boelube on every screw I put in a nutplate.
 
If valve grind compound isn't available, some of that orange shop hand cleaner or even toothpaste will have enough grit to help your bit lock into the screw head.
 
Last edited:
These diamond tips work great:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=56716&cat=1,43411,43417

page.aspx
 
Thanks everybody!

I went the low-tech route for these screws, penetrant and slotted them with the dremel. Managed to break 1/2 the head off one, but that one was in the rear baggage bulkhead, so I just ground off the rest of the head and replaced the nutplate. It was taking all I had to get them to turn. The 'tighten first' trick - well, I couldn't get anything to budge. As always, I learned some things - the lapping compound type trick I've not heard of before. Good trick.

Thanks again!

Rick 90432
 
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