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Primer line source?

Pounder

Well Known Member
Sponsor
Reinstalling a primer system that's probably been reinstalled several times. Usable but not pretty. In fact, it wasn't pretty when it came apart for latest overhaul. I really want to start fresh.

I would like to find a source for (four lines) made-to-order. Straight.

Someone out there is set-up and and way more proficient at soldering stainless than I.

As always, I appreciate the expertise and consideration of this incredible tribe.
 
Do you really need primer at all?

I ran my O-360 the entire time it was on my plane (about 10 years) without a primer system. In fact, the engine came with primer lines installed and I removed them.

I was in Texas and didn’t fly much in cold weather so that might have helped. I also ran at least one electronic ignition from the beginning. I found that a couple of pumps of the throttle while I was cranking, was always enough to start the engine when it was cold. One pump when it was hot did the trick.
 
TS flightlines / Aircraft Specialty

Tom made my primer lines out of stainless steel for my O-360. Excellent service.
 
Thanks everyone

What a crowd Doug has accumulated..

Larry's pm vectored me to AIrflow Performance, who has what I need in stock. It's on order. (At half the cost for same, TSO'd parts via superior).

And Tom at TS is now in my Rolodex.

Rick, I agree, in that I probably never primed my (flat, four cylinder) engines when I was in the south. But, I moved to home state of MI. The airplane I recently purchased came with TWO cabin heat sources, and all four cylinder primer nozzles. Guess I will go back with the same setup.
 
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I know its "outside the square" kinda thinking but you actually can buy them premanufactured to the correct length from either Lycoming or Superior Air Parts. They come straight and you have to bend them yourself. I have a couple of spare ones still in the sealed packet that I took to the hangar just yesterday... you could have them if you lived closer.

Find somebody who has purchased a Superior kit engine as they're supplied with the kit and not used if you do the upgrade to an injected fuel system.
 
SS is fine for all the stuff that is TIGHTLY secured to the engine and can't move. However, the line from the firewall source to the Tee on the engine should not be SS, as it cannot deal with the constant movement. It WILL fatigue crack. This is why all the certified stuff is done with copper tubing. Ever read the SB that adds extras support for the SS injector lines? That stuf is very sensitive to movement and WILL crack if it sees much.

IMHO, SS primer lines is asking for trouble. Follow the aviation convention and use copper. Fuel systems are NOT the place to experiment with non-standard. Bigger and/or Stronger are not necessarily synonymous with better.
 
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We've do them both ways, Stainless tubes and teflon hoses. Teflon is easier, but more expensive. Stainless is less expensive but labor intensive to get the lines bent so they fit. If you try and use the primer ball seat tees and 90*s, they are expensive and hard to come by at times.
We do a combination of AN tees and the primer ball ends. Set up very similar to the Lycoming drawing.
Tom
 

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Rick, I agree, in that I probably never primed my (flat, four cylinder) engines when I was in the south. But, I moved to home state of MI. The airplane I recently purchased came with TWO cabin heat sources, and all four cylinder primer nozzles. Guess I will go back with the same setup.

Im in Appleton, WI...I do not use a primer but always preheat when <40F. Accelerator pump only.

The only difference between warm and cold weather is the pumps required (3 vs 2)...it takes more fuel volume to create the equivalent vapor for ignition when its cold. if the engine is preheated a significant amount of time the fuel in the carb bowl will warm up also and only 2 pumps are required.

With updraft carbs, always pump while cranking only. For hot starts...no pumping required.

IMO, primer systems are just another point of failure and maintenance...if they're not required I would remove them.
 
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