Painters and Primer Rumor

[CharlieWaffles]

So I've read here and heard that most professional exterior plane painters "wont like your primer and will just remove it anyway". My question is, are we talking about a high build 2 part pin-hole filler or are they talking about a "paint" primer?

I'm trying to determine if I should work to fill all the pinholes and voids with the 2 part 2K primer I have been using and not do a paint primer (like a JetFlex) or if a painter is going to remove the 2K stuff anyway.

Any insights?

 

[rleffler]

So I've read here and heard that most professional exterior plane painters "wont like your primer and will just remove it anyway". My question is, are we talking about a high build 2 part pin-hole filler or are they talking about a "paint" primer?

I'm trying to determine if I should work to fill all the pinholes and voids with the 2 part 2K primer I have been using and not do a paint primer (like a JetFlex) or if a painter is going to remove the 2K stuff anyway.

Any insights?

You have to ask your painter that question. You'll get a different answer from different painters.

 

[broken1234]

The big issue with a pro painter (or even a non pro who cares about the quality of the job...) is mainly, "What's under the existing primer?"

Was it properly cleaned, prepped, applied, etc.? Did the product get mixed correctly? Is it the right product for the job? Correct amount of coats? Were they put on with adequate flash time? Is it compatible with whatever I'm going to topcoat it with?

I, and my shop, are PPG certified... but how can I fully stand behind and warrant my paint if I don't know what's under it? That's the position that PPG would also take.

Also, I have yet (in 25 years) to have a plane come through here that had composite surfaces that were ready to paint. So those areas usually have to be bodyworked anyway...

Brad Simmons
Airframes Inc.
Milan, TN
www.airframesinc.com

 

[CharlieWaffles]

Also, I have yet (in 25 years) to have a plane come through here that had composite surfaces that were ready to paint. So those areas usually have to be bodyworked anyway...

That practically answers my question right there.

 

[RVG8tor]

Fly with no primer

In an effort to save my painter unneeded work of sanding off primer I applied possibly wrong, how long can one fly with just coats of clear epoxy and no primer? My understanding is epoxy alone will absorb moisture so I was planning a coat of primer, DPLF (epoxy primer) then K36. The painter said do not sand the K36 coat so as not to break the seal. Maybe I should just shot the K36 and call it good.

If it would not hurt anything can you safely fly for some period of time with just pinholes filled with epoxy resin? What if you fly through some precipitation or it rains on you plane while outside. I see planes with no primer at airshows all the time. My painter does not seem to mind my application of primer but I am sure he plans to sand it all off so he has a clean canvas to begin his work from.

Curious what the answer is, I know Tsam flew with just clear primer but he went to paint fairly quickly.

Cheers

 

[Thermos]

If it would not hurt anything can you safely fly for some period of time with just pinholes filled with epoxy resin?

My question exactly...how much work should I do on fiberglass if I don't know yet who will paint my airplane?

Dave

 

[Ironflight]

Curious what the answer is, I know Tsam flew with just clear primer but he went to paint fairly quickly.

Correct - nothing more than a brushed-on coat of West Systems epoxy to seal the cowling from oil contamination.

 

[KTM520guy]

Was it properly cleaned, prepped, applied, etc.? Did the product get mixed correctly? Is it the right product for the job? Correct amount of coats? Were they put on with adequate flash time? Is it compatible with whatever I'm going to topcoat it with?

This is exactly it right here. If I'm going to warranty the final product I need to know everything related to the paint.

 

[RVG8tor]

Just K36

I talked with the painter and he said just lightly sand the last coat of clear resin with 180-320 grit and then shoot a coat of K36 primer. He also said not to sand the K36 as this breaks the seal it gives the glass. The painter will sand this off fix the imperfections as needed and start with a compatible primer.

I hope this helps. I am concerned with protection since I live where it rains and will be flying for a few months before paint.

Cheers
Mike

 

[broken1234]

K36 and K38 will absorb water (sanded or not) if not topcoated with something else... I usually have my customers put an extra coat of K38 (so I have something to sand off), then topcoat with DP epoxy primer for their flight test period.

But, realistically, it's very rare that we run across oil or water damage that we can't sand out before we reach the base material.

Brad Simmons
Airframes Inc.
Milan, TN
www.airframesinc.com

 

[NukkleSamwich]

so if I smear a bunch of rattle can junk primer all over my uncleaned and poorly prepped airplane, none of you painters will warranty a cheap paint job? and you will actually charge me to remove it?? WOW talk about bad customer service!