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Page 18-03 Deburring the A-909 counterweight

WingedFrog

Well Known Member
I found a few hints on the "usual suspects" web sites on how to debur this 4 ft long tube inside. The best I found is a file attached to a broom. Has anyone got a better solution? (no offense for the broom handler! :D)
 
I took a piece of music wire and bent 1/4" of the tip 45 degrees. Then I filed the inside of the bend sharp.

After bending a handle on the other end, the entire tool is about three or four inches long.

It's been an excellent tool for deburring inside holes for the last 40 years.

Dave
 
I took a piece of music wire and bent 1/4" of the tip 45 degrees. Then I filed the inside of the bend sharp.

After bending a handle on the other end, the entire tool is about three or four inches long.

It's been an excellent tool for deburring inside holes for the last 40 years.

Dave


Thanks for the tip Dave.
Anyway you could post a picture? Those are worth a thousand words.
Just like ..... "one peek out the window ..... is worth a thousand sweeps on the radar!"
 
Why deburr inside?

I think it is more important to deburr the outside of the tube where the sheet metal skin will touch. Nothing gets fastened to the inside of the tube. I am not saying to not deburr the inside, just wondering what the purpose of doing so is. Burrs are not going to hurt the rivets anymore than a sharp 90 degree hole will. But then what do I know?
Joe
 
More Fun then a barrel of Monkeys!

I'm going out on the limb with Joe on this one. Don't think its that big of a deal on the inside.:rolleyes:
 
I did the two holes at each end and they had big pieces of metal on the inside that I was able to reach with a file. I think I will be more careful and drill the rest more progressively with two bits which should produce smaller burs easier to remove. I would not like to make a shop head over to big of a bur, just don't think it's right but I may be wrong...
 
Deburring the SS counterweight...

I, too, felt that the burrs were so large that I didn't want to rivet without attempting to clear them. The stainless steel is really tough. I used a half round file near the ends then used my little hand deburring tool, and by using it at a sharp angle to the tube I was able to get the holes deburred. I broke two deburring blades in the process:
[url=http://tonytessitore.smugmug.com/RV-12-Project-N577RV/RV-12-Wings/7598314_vimQN#554868740_mcubP-A-LB][/URL]

Tony
 
A handy tool

I found a few hints on the "usual suspects" web sites on how to debur this 4 ft long tube inside. The best I found is a file attached to a broom. Has anyone got a better solution? (no offense for the broom handler! :D)


If you really want to deburr the inside
Make a Inside deburrig tool by taking a 5/16? x 36? drill rod, then cut a 1?slot in the end with a hacksaw.
Insert a strip of sand paper in the slot and wrap it around the drill rod, the opposite the rotation of your drill.

This tool comes in handy to have in your shop.
Good luck
 
Deburring SS

If you really want to deburr the inside
Make a Inside deburrig tool by taking a 5/16? x 36? drill rod, then cut a 1?slot in the end with a hacksaw.
Insert a strip of sand paper in the slot and wrap it around the drill rod, the opposite the rotation of your drill.

This tool comes in handy to have in your shop.
Good luck

Joe, that might work on aluminum, but those stainless steel burrs will shred the sandpaper in an instant.

Tony
 
It works

Joe, that might work on aluminum, but those stainless steel burrs will shred the sandpaper in an instant.

Tony

Tony that is true
If you use 220 Crocus Cloth and rap it around about four or five times and use light pressure you will be able to do two or three holes if the burr is not to bad

www.offshoremarineparts.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=8570

I have used this method to clean up welds on the inside of stainless Custom Headers
 
I finally used Marty's solution, a round file duck taped on a dowel (sounds better than a broom stick :)). I would not call the inside holes deburred but why go further? Cracks are not going to develop in a stainless steel pipe of this thickness. It just removed the big cakes which could have disturbed the manufactured heads of the rivets.
I could not do the deburring but I found a rationale not to do it!
For the outside, Joe is right, deburring the holes is important as they are in contact with the aluminum skin. I also passed the ends of the tube on the grinder as they had sharp edges.
 
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