Outboard bay fuel tank repair

[Dvierra]

My first tank failed the bubble test. Tried some MacGyver techniques to get some sealant onto the corners where it was leaking from the outside using the filler neck. No success.

The Vans tank repair obviously doesn't work in this area due to the narrow bay. Made a plate out of .040 and went to cutting.

Questions
1. Planning on laying more pro seal over the old. Only way I can see is to get some on a gloved finger and get in there the best I can. Not much room but I can feel all the corners. Any better way? I could make something curved, but will loose the tactile feel.
1. After cutting, I used a sanding disk to get to the cut line. It made some fine aluminum dust that stuck to the 4 month cured pro seal. I blew most of it off, but using a boroscope, I can see traces. Any issues using some alcohol to gently clean?

Really want this to be a success. Has anyone posted about this side of tank repair?

 

[fixnflyguy]

My first tank failed the bubble test. Tried some MacGyver techniques to get some sealant onto the corners where it was leaking from the outside using the filler neck. No success.

The Vans tank repair obviously doesn't work in this area due to the narrow bay. Made a plate out of .040 and went to cutting.

Questions
1. Planning on laying more pro seal over the old. Only way I can see is to get some on a gloved finger and get in there the best I can. Not much room but I can feel all the corners. Any better way? I could make something curved, but will loose the tactile feel.
1. After cutting, I used a sanding disk to get to the cut line. It made some fine aluminum dust that stuck to the 4 month cured pro seal. I blew most of it off, but using a boroscope, I can see traces. Any issues using some alcohol to gently clean?

Really want this to be a success. Has anyone posted about this side of tank repair?


View attachment 80214

You probably should have gone in through the rib. Going to be tough reaching in there. Not really sure where your leaking.Ive done a bunch of tank work, and sealing over cured proseal is OK as long as it's cleaned and abraided. Scotchbrite works well.

 

[Ralph Inkster]

while you have access, use your finger & paint all Proseal joints you can reach, especially the top/bottom/side joints to the rear baffle. This will encapsulate any aluminum dust in there & the extra bit of sealant never hurts.

 

[bruceh]

Definitely should have gone in from the side rib with a standard 5" hole to use Van's tank repair kits. Square corners are no good structurally on skins (or baffle in this case).

 

[Dvierra]

Definitely should have gone in from the side rib with a standard 5" hole to use Van's tank repair kits. Square corners are no good structurally on skins (or baffle in this case).

I went this route after a conversation with Vans. The photo is before I cleaned up the cut. I did radius the corners. 1 inch overlap with pro seal on the plate, 16 blind rivets should keep it structurally healed. The stiffing ring on the rib didn’t allow for the vans baffle repair plate.

 

[Dvierra]

while you have access, use your finger & paint all Proseal joints you can reach, especially the top/bottom/side joints to the rear baffle. This will encapsulate any aluminum dust in there & the extra bit of sealant never hurts.

That’s about what I did. Loaded a syringe up with sealant, went around and wiped it in to the all baffle/skin/rib joints. Worked well. Sent in a camera and can’t see any reason it should leak. All the dread over the last 4 months may have been for nothing…

 

[RV8iator]

Are you going to Checkerboard your flaps to match your shoes…