Van's Air Force
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Nosegear creaking
- Thread starter Scott Will
- Start date
Little_Richard
Active Member
I would suggest going to 3/8"
I would suggest going to 3/8", but make sure you are using a good solid machine to do the drilling. If you use a drill press it is likely that you will get some movement or flexing in the machine and when that happens, nothing comes out like you expect.
ALSO, it looks like you have work hardened the surface of the ID of that hole while trying to taper ream it. If that is the case, then you have no basically no practical choice but to drill it with a Carbide drill and possibly even a carbide reamer also. If this is the case, then you DEFINITELY need a good solid machine (Like a Bridgeport style mill) otherwise you will be breaking some really expensive carbide tooling.
I think I have heard of people sending their gear back to Langair Machining where the gear were originally made to get this oversize hole drilled. (www.langair.com) They should be able to help you save your current gear leg if it is possible.
I hope this helps.
I would suggest going to 3/8", but make sure you are using a good solid machine to do the drilling. If you use a drill press it is likely that you will get some movement or flexing in the machine and when that happens, nothing comes out like you expect.
ALSO, it looks like you have work hardened the surface of the ID of that hole while trying to taper ream it. If that is the case, then you have no basically no practical choice but to drill it with a Carbide drill and possibly even a carbide reamer also. If this is the case, then you DEFINITELY need a good solid machine (Like a Bridgeport style mill) otherwise you will be breaking some really expensive carbide tooling.
I think I have heard of people sending their gear back to Langair Machining where the gear were originally made to get this oversize hole drilled. (www.langair.com) They should be able to help you save your current gear leg if it is possible.
I hope this helps.
GAHco
Well Known Member
Better Reamers!
I have the 1st oversize bolts NAS6605-(grip in 1/16ths)
I am getting a quote on the perfect reamers that will work for the Rear Spar issue and the "Nose Gear Creaking" issue, since they are both the same diameter bolt. The reamer size will be .3261
The bolt is .3266 to .3276 this makes them a slight interference fit.
Boe-lube em up and press em in.
The reamers should take about 4 weeks, the bolts I can have in 10 or less days after I order them. I will still need a few more commitments.
As it stands the Rear Spar Bolts will cost $23.50 each and the Reamer will be $48.93 The reamer is made of Cobalt Steel & Piloted, it can be used many times if not abused.
Once I see enough interest I will bring the batch in.
Please PM me and let me know what you are interested in.
I have the 1st oversize bolts NAS6605-(grip in 1/16ths)
I am getting a quote on the perfect reamers that will work for the Rear Spar issue and the "Nose Gear Creaking" issue, since they are both the same diameter bolt. The reamer size will be .3261
The bolt is .3266 to .3276 this makes them a slight interference fit.
Boe-lube em up and press em in.
The reamers should take about 4 weeks, the bolts I can have in 10 or less days after I order them. I will still need a few more commitments.
As it stands the Rear Spar Bolts will cost $23.50 each and the Reamer will be $48.93 The reamer is made of Cobalt Steel & Piloted, it can be used many times if not abused.
Once I see enough interest I will bring the batch in.
Please PM me and let me know what you are interested in.
tomwebster
Well Known Member
I need both
Put me down for both the bolt and reamer.
I think I sent the PM correctly.
Tom
Put me down for both the bolt and reamer.
I think I sent the PM correctly.
Tom
rzbill
Well Known Member
Just to close the loop from 3 years ago
I have a few posts previously in this thread about taper reaming problems and want to finish the story.
I was working on the mains at the time. I wound up fabricating some fixtures to hold the legs in the right orientation and then taking the assy to a wire EDM shop (private pilot owner) along with the taper pins and a print. The EDM worked great. I brought the legs home and match taper reamed the legs to the trunion weldment tubes.
Some time later I got the finish kit with engine mount and nose gear leg. I decided to try hand reaming again, just to see if the first time was a fluke. Same thing. Ream went in a little ways and stopped dead. I got it EDMed like the mains. No fuss no muss.
SO.....not flying yet (soon
) but I expect zero issues with the taper pin joints.
I have a few posts previously in this thread about taper reaming problems and want to finish the story.
I was working on the mains at the time. I wound up fabricating some fixtures to hold the legs in the right orientation and then taking the assy to a wire EDM shop (private pilot owner) along with the taper pins and a print. The EDM worked great. I brought the legs home and match taper reamed the legs to the trunion weldment tubes.
Some time later I got the finish kit with engine mount and nose gear leg. I decided to try hand reaming again, just to see if the first time was a fluke. Same thing. Ream went in a little ways and stopped dead. I got it EDMed like the mains. No fuss no muss.
SO.....not flying yet (soon
) but I expect zero issues with the taper pin joints.
AlexPeterson
Well Known Member
Hmmm, don't you think that 0004" to .0005" diametrical interference will make those bolts difficult to put in, or, especially, to take out? I believe so. The gear is quite stout, and will not be happy about deflecting that much to allow the bolt to fit in. Seems like a couple tenth's clearance is what would be desired.
Reaming questions
My RV7A gear weldments have been installed and were previously "match"-drilled per vans instructions. Can your proposed reamer by used on the weldments where they are (installed on fuselage)? The gear leg would be reamed seperately on the bench I assume. If this scenario is doable by an average builder, I am interested.
PS. Is the reamer to be used by hand or in a drill?
PPS. Is the current recommended fix for nose gear wobble/squeaking to ream for close tolerance bolt or taper pin? If so what method is recommended, what parts numbers and reamer ?
Bevan
RV7A
My RV7A gear weldments have been installed and were previously "match"-drilled per vans instructions. Can your proposed reamer by used on the weldments where they are (installed on fuselage)? The gear leg would be reamed seperately on the bench I assume. If this scenario is doable by an average builder, I am interested.
PS. Is the reamer to be used by hand
or in a drill?PPS. Is the current recommended fix for nose gear wobble/squeaking to ream for close tolerance bolt or taper pin? If so what method is recommended, what parts numbers and reamer ?
Bevan
RV7A
