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Nose gear pants repair...Tug Guards

MacCool

Well Known Member
Patron
I had to repair my nose gear wheel pants (again) and took the opportunity to rebuild them a little to accommodate a set of Tug Guards. My nose gear strut was loose in it's engine mount socket which put the axle where tow bars attach off-level by about a centimeter. Wasn't an issue with the Bogert but the closing mechanism on my Best Tug is very precise, so lining it up became problematic with the closure mechanism ultimately crunching the fiberglass around the hole on the closure side. I repaired the nose gear strut looseness, but I was putting off the fiberglass repair until I got marshaled into a small ditch at a grass field which now mandated attention. I had a pair of Flyboys Tug Guards but never put them on because they needed a smaller opening in the fiberglass than what the OB created. I opted to start over, glass over the tow bar holes and re-cut new holes for the Tug Guards. Those guards are very well-machined, although kind of expensive. I'm pleased with the appearance, however, and so far they work really well in protecting the surrounding paint and fiberglass. A lot of people get the version for countersunk rivets I'm told, but I'm just not that ambitious and wanted something easy to drill out when I have to repair the wheel pants again so I just pulled them.

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This is nice. I need to repaint and repair some stuff on my front pants. When you repainted yours, did you respray the entire thing or just part of it?
 
The first couple of pictures show the extent of my sanding. After getting the new fiberglass shaped, I filled with microballoons and sanded the whole thing smooth, then primed and painted. I used a rattle cans from Touch Up Direct, color matched to my paint code (Dodge Viper Race Yellow - WYR). Rattle cans are tough...tend to spit a bit so the color and clear coats need a lot more sanding effort. It was a pain...I hate painting even more than I hate fiberglass work. Next time I'm just going to take the pants to the body shop for the painting part. I have a guy here locally that has a spectrophotometer, which he swears matches better than paint codes.
 
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