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New Build and Alternative approach to SB-00043 (elevator skin cracks) for RV14 & 10

mstrauss

Well Known Member
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Due to laser cut parts, I had to rebuild the elevators on my 14. The planes have been updated to incorporate SB-00043, which involves adding a fillet of fuel tank sealant between the skins and rear spar. This is to provide more support and dampen vibrations/flexing to preclude cracking around the rivets. The issue impacts both 14's and 10's. I am not sure if the plans for the 10 have been updated for new builders, but as I stated, they have for the 14. Unfortunately, the approach taken in the updated 14 plans, is to add the fillet much the same way it is described in the service bulletin. This didn't make sense to me, so I thought I would describe the alternative approach I took, that I think is much easier, and possibly more effective.

Of course, the service bulletin was all about getting the fillet of sealant in an existing structure. However, when building new, you have much easier access to the spar and can add a bead to sealant exactly where its needed before joining (riveting) the skins. In fact it may be better to get a bit of sealant into the rivet area, again with the goal of dampening vibrations.

The area where sealant is to be applied must be bare aluminum, no primer. Prepare the surfaces as described in the plans, that is. do not prime, and scuff with 80-120 grit sandpaper. This includes the skins and spar. I used some 1/4in masking tape to mask the area while priming. When ready to join the two, first apply a bead of sealant to both the skin and spar, see the pictures below:

IMG_3642.JPGIMG_3643.JPG

As stated, apply sealant to the spar as well. Below is a picture of that, but after the first skin was joined. You can see I'm using a 60ml disposable syringe with catheter tip to apply the bead. You can also see the tongue depressor I use to create the fillet once the spar and skin are joined. Use clecos to properly position and hold the surfaces in place while creating the fillet.

IMG_3638.JPG
IMG_3640.JPG

Creating the fillet is so easy with the two surfaces completely exposed. It gets a bit more challenging when joining the second skin, but it is way easier than the plans, as the sealant is in place. All you need to do is reach in with the tongue depressor to create the fillet, see picture below:

IMG_3645.JPG
IMG_3644.JPG

Once the sealant is in place and the fillet is created, you can leave the clecos in place and let the sealant dry before riveting, or rivet while wet. Riveting while wet is not a problem as the sealant is on one side of the spar, and the riveting action is on the other, precluding some of the mess.

There is a bay at the end of the elevator where you will need to get access later, so you do not rivet the skin and spar in that area. You can see in the images above, that I did not add sealant to that area before joining, and did it later.

Hope that helps, and as always your mileage may very.
 
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If I were building the elevators today, I'd do something similar. Mine were already built when the SB came out. From what I could find online, the primary (or maybe only?) location where cracks were showing up was along the aft spar of the L elevator where the trim tab attaches. This would make sense as this area is subjected to the most stress due to the mass, bending loads, and vibration of the trim tab. For me the SB instructions seem like overkill, so instead I decided to remove the row of rivets that hold the hinge to the elev skin and rear spar. I gently pried open the skin, removed primer with acetone on a paper towel, ran a thin scotchbrite pad through a few times to scuff, then injected tank sealant in between skin & rear spar flange and riveted it back together. Peering in thru the lightening holes in the front spar around the middle rod end I can see tank sealant squeezed out on the inside...not a nice fillet, but IMO probably more effective having the skin bonded to the flange along the full mating surface where the hinge attaches. Should help reduce stress points at individual rivets where cracks have appeared.

YMMV. I'll report back in 10 years whether my method was effective ;)
 
If I were building the elevators today, I'd do something similar. Mine were already built when the SB came out. From what I could find online, the primary (or maybe only?) location where cracks were showing up was along the aft spar of the L elevator where the trim tab attaches. This would make sense as this area is subjected to the most stress due to the mass, bending loads, and vibration of the trim tab. For me the SB instructions seem like overkill, so instead I decided to remove the row of rivets that hold the hinge to the elev skin and rear spar. I gently pried open the skin, removed primer with acetone on a paper towel, ran a thin scotchbrite pad through a few times to scuff, then injected tank sealant in between skin & rear spar flange and riveted it back together. Peering in thru the lightening holes in the front spar around the middle rod end I can see tank sealant squeezed out on the inside...not a nice fillet, but IMO probably more effective having the skin bonded to the flange along the full mating surface where the hinge attaches. Should help reduce stress points at individual rivets where cracks have appeared.

YMMV. I'll report back in 10 years whether my method was effective ;)
You make a good point about the location on the cracks, and I agree that having sealant in the rivet area may be a plus. I think I should have precluded priming in that area, and buttered on some sealant. There is always one more level of "perfection". :)
 
Keep in mind that the new counterweight included in the SB kit is based on the mass and location of the sealant used per instructions. If an alternate method uses more or less sealant then the new counterweight mass should be adjusted. Plans show how to measure to see if elevator ‘trailing edge heaviness’ is within limits.
 
Is there any harm using RTV rather than tank sealant as an elevator sealant? Also, I'm just at the point that I need to use the special bucking bar for the aft elevator on my -14. Has anybody looked into doing this rivet job with mk-319-bs rivets instead of the cumbersome way Vans recommends?
 
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