Phil
Well Known Member
Has anyone had success moving their door pin holes?
I drilled one of mine earlier and after all was said and done, the aft hole for the door shifted inboard about 1/16". I'd really like the door to sit as close to flush as possible so I don't make any additional work for myself. As it stands right now, I'd have to add quite a bit of filler to build-up the door and that would be enough to cover the tops of the screws holding the plastic pin guides in the door.
My thought is to go ahead and oval the hole in the bulk head enough to bring the door flush, then rivet a doubler plate with the properly sized 7/16" hole on the backside of the oval. Of course it would be the same thickness as bulkhead. I have plenty of pin extension to pull it off.
Phil
I drilled one of mine earlier and after all was said and done, the aft hole for the door shifted inboard about 1/16". I'd really like the door to sit as close to flush as possible so I don't make any additional work for myself. As it stands right now, I'd have to add quite a bit of filler to build-up the door and that would be enough to cover the tops of the screws holding the plastic pin guides in the door.
My thought is to go ahead and oval the hole in the bulk head enough to bring the door flush, then rivet a doubler plate with the properly sized 7/16" hole on the backside of the oval. Of course it would be the same thickness as bulkhead. I have plenty of pin extension to pull it off.
- Has anyone done this successfully?
- Are there any other techniques out there that I haven't thought of?
- I'm assuming the door pin holes must be a tight fit (minimal slop) and that slightly enlarging the hole (without the doubler idea) is a bad idea?
Phil
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