Matco Brake Identification

[Ironflight]

Any old-time F1 guys know what model Matco brakes were shipped with the early kits? My kit is Serial #26 - well before they started shipping with Groves, but these Matcos have no identifying model number, and when I go to the Matco site to find information, all of the old designs have no pictures. I know how brakes go together and get maintained, but would like to know the model number for completeness! Here’s a picture taken from the build manual - these are what I have.

 

[hgerhardt]

Yours are 5"? They look identical to what I had on my -6 until I replaced them with Beringers last year.

These are WHLW51L. Also, originally the rotors had SHCS with drilled heads for safety wire. Later they switched to Nordlocs, which mine now have below.

I finally got rid of these Matco's due to uneven pad wear as the caliper piston is not centered over the pad, and the pads rattle on the guide pins when taxiing. Pad wear shown below. I guess you get what you pay for...

 

[Ironflight]

Thanks Heinrich! Yes - 5”… I’d consider replacing them now with modern Groves but these are on hand and there are a few other things in the supply chain right now that are higher priority….but now I know the part number - thanks much!

 

[F1 Rocket]

Hey Paul,
Interesting that your serial number is #26. N14ZM is #25
I bought my kit secondhand in 2001. The original Matcos were missing a few bits and pieces and the rotors were horribly corroded when I got them. So I ended up just putting Groves on it from the start.

 

[Toobuilder]

A little OT, but looking at the pictures from the build manual in post #1, it appears that the F1 uses the same stub axle mounting scheme as the Harmon. This scheme has one glaring defect in the sense that it has the mount bolts screwing directly into the stub axles which places the threads in shear. As we should all know, this is a bad idea. I have found that one can replace 3 of the 4 bolts with button head Hi-Loks if you simply drill out the threads and ream to size. With a slight clearancing of the stub axle at the new hole, the Hi-Lok heads will fit on the wheel side and standard nuts are used on the "leg side".

While its true that stub axles are not falling off Rockets (it seems), this mod aligns more with engineering "best practices" and makes ME feel better. Offered for consideration only.

EDIT - looking more closely at the pictures it now seems that the assembly in post #1 may have nuts inboard. If so, then carry on!

 

[vfrazier]

A little OT, but looking at the pictures from the build manual in post #1, it appears that the F1 uses the same stub axle mounting scheme as the Harmon. This scheme has one glaring defect in the sense that it has the mount bolts screwing directly into the stub axles which places the threads in shear. As we should all know, this is a bad idea. I have found that one can replace 3 of the 4 bolts with button head Hi-Loks if you simply drill out the threads and ream to size. With a slight clearancing of the stub axle at the new hole, the Hi-Lok heads will fit on the wheel side and standard nuts are used on the "leg side".

While its true that stub axles are not falling off Rockets (it seems), this mod aligns more with engineering "best practices" and makes ME feel better. Offered for consideration only.

EDIT - looking more closely at the pictures it now seems that the assembly in post #1 may have nuts inboard. If so, then carry on!

Tapered shims to correct alignment in the area we're discussing here cause me to lose sleep, but correctly installed bolts don't. The tapered shims necessarily cause the bolts to tighten up CROOKED.

Nonetheless, the mod you are suggesting is certainly acceptable for belt and suspenders protection!