What's new
Van's Air Force

The definitive Van's Aircraft support community! Buying, building or flying an RV? Join our exclusive family of mentors and enthusiasts!

Main Squeeze and Pneumatic squeezer question

Y

YME

Well Known Member
Sponsor
When I ordered both items from Cleaveland Tools I forgot to order another 3" yoke for the Main Squeeze. So, is it necessary to have both items assembled with the yokes or in my case switch them when necessary. When building the Rv-12 does there come a time when I might be needed both or is it just best to have them both with the yokes. I unsderstand it is just another cost.
 
YME said:
When I ordered both items from Cleaveland Tools I forgot to order another 3" yoke for the Main Squeeze. So, is it necessary to have both items assembled with the yokes or in my case switch them when necessary. When building the Rv-12 does there come a time when I might be needed both or is it just best to have them both with the yokes. I unsderstand it is just another cost.
Click to expand...
I did not build an RV12, but did build a 14A and used both squeezers. With quick pins instead of bolts it takes less than 2 minutes to swap yokes on either tool. Also, I presume you only have two hands, so I don’t see a need to invest in duplicate yokes. YMMV.
 
YME said:
When I ordered both items from Cleaveland Tools I forgot to order another 3" yoke for the Main Squeeze. So, is it necessary to have both items assembled with the yokes or in my case switch them when necessary. When building the Rv-12 does there come a time when I might be needed both or is it just best to have them both with the yokes. I unsderstand it is just another cost.
Click to expand...
I would definitely not have 3" yokes for both. However, at least for the 8, I appreciated using different yokes, with one of my favorites being the shortest (2"?) because it didn't have any flex. 2.5" flange nose came in very handy too. The thin nose was critical at times on the 8, but there are lots of creative ways to avoid its purchase. My least favorite was the 3", but it certainly is the most versatile. Although two squeezers is convenient, in theory, I could have easily gotten away with just the pneumatic with at least the 3" and 2.5" flange. Unfortunately for my wallet, I continue to find that if they make a tool for a job, its' usually really nice to have the best tool for the job. I'm never sure when its better to open the wallet or cheap it, but it seems I've alway, always appreciated having the best tool for the job. I just don't eat out anymore.

Wait....isn't the 12 mainly pull rivets.....Save your $$$ and go the cheapest route you can but I defer to builders of the 12.
 
YME said:
When I ordered both items from Cleaveland Tools I forgot to order another 3" yoke for the Main Squeeze. So, is it necessary to have both items assembled with the yokes or in my case switch them when necessary. When building the Rv-12 does there come a time when I might be needed both or is it just best to have them both with the yokes. I unsderstand it is just another cost.
Click to expand...
I built a 12iS using the pneumatic squeezer. The kit is designed so that everything can be done with a 3" yoke and pull rivets. I vaguely recall somewhere I thought a longeron yoke would help, but was able to use pull rivets. The Main Squeeze is designed so yokes are interchangeable with their pneumatic squeezer.
 
The only place I can remember the yokes I got from Cleaveland not working was putting the seat frames together. But if you look carefully at the instructions there's a side note on that page that says you can substitute pulled rivets (4-3's or 4-4's - I cannot remember) for the solid rivets.
 
Thanks for everyones replies. For the amount of rivets that have to be squeezed it now makes sense to have the one yoke. Thanks again..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top