Lycoming Stud Removal (E-Mag Installation)

[dgarrelt63303]

Does anyone have the latest Lyc Overhaul manual for direct drive Aircraft Engines(60294-7 is what I have)? Trying to find a more up to date ref than my 1974 copy. In section 3-33 of General Overhaul Procedures for replacement of studs it mentions to install new studs with thread lubricant, Specification JAN-A-669 which was a white lead based anti-seize.

Does anyone have a more current version that states what thread lubricant to use?

 

[Taltruda]

Certainly seems like all the ones I had to remove must have been locktited in place.. they took some heat and serious muscle to get them out. As for what to use putting new ones in, i did them dry.. I don’t think it’s that critical what you use, if anything.

 

[dgarrelt63303]

Certainly seems like all the ones I had to remove must have been locktited in place.. they took some heat and serious muscle to get them out. As for what to use putting new ones in, i did them dry.. I don’t think it’s that critical what you use, if anything.

Yes, I talked to a couple of people who have done it and read threads and articles about how tight those studs are in there. I just wanted to see the official word on what Lycoming now recommends. I contacted them about an updated manual and they wanted me to buy a new one. I asked their service if they would sell by the paragraph and didn't get a response.

 

[Ironflight]

Yes, I talked to a couple of people who have done it and read threads and articles about how tight those studs are in there. I just wanted to see the official word on what Lycoming now recommends. I contacted them about an updated manual and they wanted me to buy a new one. I asked their service if they would sell by the paragraph and didn't get a response.

If they have a newer manual, it will still be 99% the old manual - written back in the 50’s….

On the Mag studs, the mounting holes go al the way through the accessory case (they aren;t bottoming holes), so they are a potential leak path for tiny oil seeps. At Lycoming school, they told us to use sealant (like Permatex #2 or #3) on the threads to prevent future leaks. A generic rule on studs from Lycoming wouldn’t cover all the cases (through holes and bottoming holes).

 

[chaskuss]

If they have a newer manual, it will still be 99% the old manual - written back in the 50’s….

On the Mag studs, the mounting holes go al the way through the accessory case (they aren;t bottoming holes), so they are a potential leak path for tiny oil seeps. At Lycoming school, they told us to use sealant (like Permatex #2 or #3) on the threads to prevent future leaks. A generic rule on studs from Lycoming wouldn’t cover all the cases (through holes and bottoming holes).

Actually revision 13 & 14 have added a few color photos, which are great. send me a direct message.
Charlie

 

[sansoneservices]

The original studs are slightly oversized and require cuss words to remove. Same with vacuum pump mounting studs we're removing a lot lately. Put the new ones in dry or lube them if you like. I use the low-grip loctite so they remain in place

 

[Majorpayne317641]

I recommend using a used snap on or similar stud remover tool. Then it goes really easy. I found one set on EBay. As for install use green Loctite or something you prefer to seal the thread. It will seep over time if you don’t.

 

[Ironflight]

Should have posted this link….

Replacing Studs When Switching to P-Mags - KITPLANES

Switching to P-Mags? Here's how to easily replace overly long engine studs when removing impulse coupler spacers for electronic ignition upgrades.

www.kitplanes.com

 

[chaskuss]

Does anyone have the latest Lyc Overhaul manual for direct drive Aircraft Engines(60294-7 is what I have)? Trying to find a more up to date ref than my 1974 copy. In section 3-33 of General Overhaul Procedures for replacement of studs it mentions to install new studs with thread lubricant, Specification JAN-A-669 which was a white lead based anti-seize.

Does anyone have a more current version that states what thread lubricant to use?

I was going to make my reply here, but it will be easier to find in the future posted to the thread linked below:

Current Lycoming Overhaul Manual thread

Charlie Kuss

 

[chaskuss]

Does anyone have the latest Lyc Overhaul manual for direct drive Aircraft Engines(60294-7 is what I have)? Trying to find a more up to date ref than my 1974 copy. In section 3-33 of General Overhaul Procedures for replacement of studs it mentions to install new studs with thread lubricant, Specification JAN-A-669 which was a white lead based anti-seize.

Does anyone have a more current version that states what thread lubricant to use?

Revision 14 of 60294-7 page 3-3 has not been updated since 1974, so their instructions remain the same. Paul & MajorPayne give great advice regarding removal of those studs. The method in the manual also works well.

Charlie

 

[Phil Sprang]

I have the exact same stud removal tool as the Kitplanes article. When my new engine arrived in January, I needed to pull a single stud from in order to install the B&C upright oil filter adapter. My stud puller failed to do the job. I even tried adding heat without success. All it did was bugger the threads.

After a few choice words, I had the guys from the local engine shop come over with their Snap On stud puller. It did the job, without any fuss.

I know what I'll be using next time I need to remove a stud. It is expensive but worth it.

 

[444TX]

Does anyone have the latest Lyc Overhaul manual for direct drive Aircraft Engines(60294-7 is what I have)? Trying to find a more up to date ref than my 1974 copy. In section 3-33 of General Overhaul Procedures for replacement of studs it mentions to install new studs with thread lubricant, Specification JAN-A-669 which was a white lead based anti-seize.

Does anyone have a more current version that states what thread lubricant to use?

Like others have posted, the proper tool in the best way to go. The mags studs might be easier than larger cylinder and case studs, but still the way to go.

The lead based anti-sieze is available on line. That’s what should be used, but loc-tite will work.

GM

 

[chaskuss]

Like others have posted, the proper tool in the best way to go. The mags studs might be easier than larger cylinder and case studs, but still the way to go.

The lead based anti-seize is available on line. That’s what should be used, but Loctite will work.

GM

That tube of Armite LP-250 looks like you bought it in 1974, when Lycoming updated that section of the manual! Thanks for letting us know who makes it. JPRiflesdotcom carries it in a 1/2 oz can for $4.95. They refer to it as a grease. I'd post the web link, but I don't want to get my knuckles rapped for posting "non advertiser" vendor web links. Perhaps you can find it at a local gun smith shop??

 

[chaskuss]

snipped In section 3-33 of General Overhaul Procedures for replacement of studs it mentions to install new studs with thread lubricant, Specification JAN-A-669 which was a white lead based anti-seize. snipped

I did a search on the above Mil Spec. It's been canceled. See

https://www.document-center.com/standards/show/JAN-A-669

It supersedes to Mil Spec TT-A-580, but that is also canceled. Says to use TT-S-1732. Most everything with lead in it was banned decades ago.

TT-S-1732 is lead free & also appears to be canceled.

http://everyspec.com/FED_SPECS/T/TT-S-1732_14328/

I would suggest using the copper based anti seize Lycoming recommends for spark plugs, if you don't want to deal with lead. Interesting that you can still buy the Armite LP-250

Charlie

 

[DanH]

Why not leave the long stud in place and add a tubular spacer?

 

[Ironflight]

Why not leave the long stud in place and add a tubular spacer?

The long stud bumps into the body of the P-Mag in most of the orientations you want to use….

 

[dgarrelt63303]

Update,
Started working this finally today. Getting the long studs out and replacing with the shorter studs on the L/H mag was a non-issue. I think I spent more time removing the slick L/H ignition leads vs the time to remove and replace the studs. The mag and the spacer for the impulse coupling came out quickly. I then soaked each stud in penetrating oil over a 1/2 hour time. Using the heat gun I heated up the lower stud first because it had the most access. I used the $20 puller Paul mentioned and using only a 3/8" ratchet, it was out in no time. The top stud had an oil cooler line close by. I had to disconnect that line to provide enough access for the stud puller. Other than that, it came right out.

I ended up using permatex #3. Paul had mentioned above that is what they used at the lycoming school. Also, since the standard in the overhaul manual is cancelled with no current superseding spec, it made the most logical choice. Using the double nut method I got the new shorter studs in without issue. I have a feeling I'll spend more time on wiring than I did on this.

Here are some pictures.

I have no association with Fruit Of The Loom Underwear but they do make a good plug for the open accessory case so hopefully I won't be in violation of any advertising.