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Looking ahead, how do I buck these?

johntwilcox

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Looking ahead, plans calls for these to be 3-6. But the cross brace is in the way, and I expect it to be even worse with the top skin on.


How did you buck these? Do I unbolt the cross brace with top skin on, buck these, then rebolt and attach to top skin?

I have not riveted the panel to the side skin yet to reserve options.
 

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One of the first things I learned from VAF is about the CherryMax rivet you can use for those tough ones.
 
Use a 1/2" profile bucking bar -- the yoke from your squeezer held sideways works well...The cabin top side rails (F-721B-L/R) of the RV-7 are like this.

Or find some Cherry Max rivets...
 
No CherryMax #3. No sweat. Fab a bar that works and tape the big honkin' tungsten to it. The extra mass will set those no prob.
 
Drill to a larger size and use the larger size Cherry Max rivet. You need to do additional countersink for the larger Cherry Max to fit.
If you have a -8 with the gear tower, be prepared to do the same on the upper portion of the gear tower.
If you have a rotisserie, maybe you can flip it upside-down and buck it but there are only a few rivets that needed replacing.
 
For the occasional hole, it would sure be nice to have the option of a 3/32" structural blind rivet. I'd pay a couple bucks per rivet to make a problem go away sometimes!

To the best of my knowledge, as far as 3/32" blind rivets go, there are the "light duty" pop rivets like these:

But if there are some 3/32" structural (maybe tungsten/titanium/etc.) blind rivets out there in the marketplace can someone please link them? Thanks!
 
The CCC-32 rivet replaced the MSC-32 and has higher tensile and shear strength.
It’s the equivalent MK319BS.
It’s 280lbs tensile strength and 230lbs shear strength.


 
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