Disclaimer: Below are notes that I wrote to myself on the plans in case I ever wanted to build another RV-12. I advise you to follow the plans exactly.
Page 31-02 Step 1: It is better to make F-1270C slightly small to avoid interference with side skin.
Page 31-04 Step 5: Caution: Reversing polarity will destroy fan motor! Look for flow direction arrows on fan.
Page 31-04 Step 6: Consider using a shorter mounting screw that only holds the lower mounting ear against the panel bottom. Then the screw can be tightened securely to ensure a good electrical connection without fear of breaking a fan mounting ear.
Page 31-07 Step 3 (Rev 1): Drill hole for autopilot disconnect switch to 7/16".
Page 31-09 Step 9: Cut wires about 30" long.
Page 31-10 Step 5: Use an Easy-Out to hold jack while tightening nut.
Page 31-11 Step 0: Do step 4 on page 32-05 FIRST.
Page 31-11 Steps 7 & 8: Wait until 32-11 Step 2
Page 32-03 Figure 3: De-Burr inside of handle for insertion of VA-110 (Page 32-07 Step 12.) If necessary, file top and bottom slots to make them plumb with each other and in alignment with F-1266A on page 32-07.
Page 32-04 Step 3: Do page 32-05 step 7 before final tightening of bolt.
Page 32-05 Step 5: Try doing step 6 before step 5, if easier. Make sure that paint does not interfere with inserting bolts AN3-10A and AN4-25.
Page 32-06 Figure 1: De-burr ends of AN490HT11P-SDM with scotchbrite wheel
Page 32-06 Step 4: WD-1215L&R will be removed on page 32-10 step 5.
Do not fully torque nuts.
Page 32-06 Figure 3: For easy insertion of bolts, remove paint with #12 bit, 4 places per WD-1215 arm. Temporarily use extra washers under nuts so that you will not have to rotate nuts as many times, 2 places each arm. Arms will be removed on page 32-10 Step 5.
Page 32-07 Step 12: Do NOT press the VA-110 onto the end of the Fork Assembly because you have to take it apart again on the next page. Polish the OD of the fork assembly tube until it slides into the VA-110. Polish the VA-110 aft ring so that it slides into the flap handle.
Page 32-08 Step 2: Caution, when tightening AN515-848 screws that hold the F-1266A Detent Bracket, make sure that VA-110 is centered and inside of flap handle (or else parts could be bent).
Page 32-08 Step 3: Flush is perfect. But if not, it is better that the F-1260A is slightly short rather than slightly long. And it is better that the VA-110 is slightly less than flush with the end of the flap handle rather than slightly outside. You want to make sure that the VA-110 never comes out of flap handle which would make it impossible to press the button.
Page 32-10 Step 1: Error on the drooping side because the PAP says, "Place flap handle in "retracted" position and have a helper hold the left flaperon trailing edge in line with tip trailing edge. Verify right flaperon trailing edge is 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch below the trailing edge of the wing tip."
Page 32-10 Step 4: By "one side only", it means one side of torque tubes.
Page 32-12 Step 4: It is not necessary to clamp the links to the horns. Just pull the links tight one at a time & mark the holes.
Page 32-12 Figure 4: When completed, the center of the holes were exactly 2" apart on the left link and 1" apart on the right link.
Page 32-13 Figure 3: If the holes in F-1250 are too small, use emery cloth.
Page 32-14 Step 2: Use string tied to wooden dowel to fish cable.
Page 33-03 Step 5: Align both holes and insert both screws before turning on nuts.
Page 34-02 Figure 4: I count 7 holes in C-1203B.
Page 34-05 Detail C: Make sure there is at least 1/8" gap. This gap gets smaller when the rear of the canopy is raised 3/4". If the gap is too small, the canopy will bend the upper forward fuselage skin when the canopy is raised.
Page 34-07 Step 4: My WD-1218 tube was too short. Adjust handle up & down to achieve 3 13/16" spacing.
Page 34-10 Figure 2: It says to see text about the spacer but I could not find the text.
Page 34-12: Be careful tightening screws into the roll bar. The threads will strip easily.
Page 31-02 Step 1: It is better to make F-1270C slightly small to avoid interference with side skin.
Page 31-04 Step 5: Caution: Reversing polarity will destroy fan motor! Look for flow direction arrows on fan.
Page 31-04 Step 6: Consider using a shorter mounting screw that only holds the lower mounting ear against the panel bottom. Then the screw can be tightened securely to ensure a good electrical connection without fear of breaking a fan mounting ear.
Page 31-07 Step 3 (Rev 1): Drill hole for autopilot disconnect switch to 7/16".
Page 31-09 Step 9: Cut wires about 30" long.
Page 31-10 Step 5: Use an Easy-Out to hold jack while tightening nut.
Page 31-11 Step 0: Do step 4 on page 32-05 FIRST.
Page 31-11 Steps 7 & 8: Wait until 32-11 Step 2
Page 32-03 Figure 3: De-Burr inside of handle for insertion of VA-110 (Page 32-07 Step 12.) If necessary, file top and bottom slots to make them plumb with each other and in alignment with F-1266A on page 32-07.
Page 32-04 Step 3: Do page 32-05 step 7 before final tightening of bolt.
Page 32-05 Step 5: Try doing step 6 before step 5, if easier. Make sure that paint does not interfere with inserting bolts AN3-10A and AN4-25.
Page 32-06 Figure 1: De-burr ends of AN490HT11P-SDM with scotchbrite wheel
Page 32-06 Step 4: WD-1215L&R will be removed on page 32-10 step 5.
Do not fully torque nuts.
Page 32-06 Figure 3: For easy insertion of bolts, remove paint with #12 bit, 4 places per WD-1215 arm. Temporarily use extra washers under nuts so that you will not have to rotate nuts as many times, 2 places each arm. Arms will be removed on page 32-10 Step 5.
Page 32-07 Step 12: Do NOT press the VA-110 onto the end of the Fork Assembly because you have to take it apart again on the next page. Polish the OD of the fork assembly tube until it slides into the VA-110. Polish the VA-110 aft ring so that it slides into the flap handle.
Page 32-08 Step 2: Caution, when tightening AN515-848 screws that hold the F-1266A Detent Bracket, make sure that VA-110 is centered and inside of flap handle (or else parts could be bent).
Page 32-08 Step 3: Flush is perfect. But if not, it is better that the F-1260A is slightly short rather than slightly long. And it is better that the VA-110 is slightly less than flush with the end of the flap handle rather than slightly outside. You want to make sure that the VA-110 never comes out of flap handle which would make it impossible to press the button.
Page 32-10 Step 1: Error on the drooping side because the PAP says, "Place flap handle in "retracted" position and have a helper hold the left flaperon trailing edge in line with tip trailing edge. Verify right flaperon trailing edge is 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch below the trailing edge of the wing tip."
Page 32-10 Step 4: By "one side only", it means one side of torque tubes.
Page 32-12 Step 4: It is not necessary to clamp the links to the horns. Just pull the links tight one at a time & mark the holes.
Page 32-12 Figure 4: When completed, the center of the holes were exactly 2" apart on the left link and 1" apart on the right link.
Page 32-13 Figure 3: If the holes in F-1250 are too small, use emery cloth.
Page 32-14 Step 2: Use string tied to wooden dowel to fish cable.
Page 33-03 Step 5: Align both holes and insert both screws before turning on nuts.
Page 34-02 Figure 4: I count 7 holes in C-1203B.
Page 34-05 Detail C: Make sure there is at least 1/8" gap. This gap gets smaller when the rear of the canopy is raised 3/4". If the gap is too small, the canopy will bend the upper forward fuselage skin when the canopy is raised.
Page 34-07 Step 4: My WD-1218 tube was too short. Adjust handle up & down to achieve 3 13/16" spacing.
Page 34-10 Figure 2: It says to see text about the spacer but I could not find the text.
Page 34-12: Be careful tightening screws into the roll bar. The threads will strip easily.
Last edited: