Intercylinder Baffles

[TASEsq]

Am I right to realise that the Intercylinder baffles don’t come with the Van’s baffle kit, but are somehow a Lycoming part?



Do I need to add the following to my overhaul parts order? (More $$$ argh! )

Baffles 75338 x 2
J hook 71610 x 2
Retainer 71611 x 2



Do I really need the “ COVER, baffle ignition cable hole”? This is a $50 part x 2. It looks like a bit of 0.032 sheet and a couple of #10 screws will do the same job? I can’t actually understand why the ignition leads would need to go down through the Intercylinder baffles anyway?

Are these all the parts I’ll need? I read that I can’t run it on the truck without these.

 

[fl-mike]

Am I right to realise that the Intercylinder baffles don’t come with the Van’s baffle kit, but are somehow a Lycoming part?

View attachment 90858

Do I need to add the following to my overhaul parts order? (More $$$ argh! )

Baffles 75338 x 2
J hook 71610 x 2
Retainer 71611 x 2

View attachment 90859

Do I really need the “ COVER, baffle ignition cable hole”? This is a $50 part x 2. It looks like a bit of 0.032 sheet and a couple of #10 screws will do the same job? I can’t actually understand why the ignition leads would need to go down through the Intercylinder baffles anyway?

Are these all the parts I’ll need? I read that I can’t run it on the truck without these.

They are not in the baffle kit. Traditionally come on the engine.

 

[Ironflight]

Right - inter-cylinder baffles are an engine part, not an airframe part….so don’t lose them!!

And I’d definitely fabricate that “cover” myself…..

 

[D-Dubya]

Trent, you're correct in thinking the ignition wires do not go through the inter cylinder baffles. At least I've never seen them routed that way. The ignition cables hole/seal typically are on the back baffle wall for the four top spark plug wires.

And while we're here, you want to seal EVERY crack and gap that's not routing air past a cylinder cooling fin. It really makes a difference. If you don't address it, you'll almost certainly be fighting high CHTs and/or oil temps down the road. There are multiple threads on this forum addressing this, and it's better to accept the fact now when the engine is clean and it's easier to access those leak points. The inter cylinder baffles usually have big gaps between the cylinder barrels (near the bolts) that have to be sealed with RTV. Get a cup of coffee and sit down for a search here, as there are volumes written here on baffles, baffle seals, and eliminating cracks. Some threads are better than others, but Dan Horton has some of the best descriptions and photos for how to seal the baffles for optimum cooling.

 

[Dan 57]

And while we're here, you want to seal EVERY crack and gap that's not routing air past a cylinder cooling fin

+1
As for ordering them extra, if you buy a new engine they will be "installed". If going for a used donkey, better check if they're installed before ordering.

And having very recently checked the newly installed baffling on my brand new, lucky me, TB YO-360-A1A, I was horrified to see how them inter-cylinder baffles were installed at the factory. They had visibly been forced into position, therefore bending the flanges touching the case, and leaving a gaping space.

Let's hope QC was better on the guts, but what can one really expect with these cheap engines (highly sarcastic tone used here).

Re

can’t actually understand why the ignition leads would need to go down through the Intercylinder baffles

, they usually don't go thru the inter-cylinder baffles, but at one point or another will pass thru the rear or side baffles to connect to the respective spark plug. Now there are non-aviation pass-thru available, or some 3D printed ones if you have a good friend as I do (just be sure the wire used is heat resistant).

 

[TASEsq]

Thanks all!

I’ll go and increase the cost of my order!