Initial Engine Start

[Larry]

Can anyone point me in the direction to requirements and or test plans for flying off the test hours after initial flight? I would like to know what type of flying is necessary and what others have done. I will be entering that phase in my journey shortly. What can I expect for required hours, 25 or 40, for the test flight phase. My 9A has a Penn Yan O-320, carbureted, with bottom Slick ignition and top LightSpeed. I am using the Sensenich prop Van?s recommends.

Also, does anyone have a test plan or suggested procedure for first engine run? I want to do it right and safe and efficient. I will be collecting data from my Dynon EMS but will also like to collect data by eyeball. I am not in a rush and have no problem making and event out of it.

Is there some way to pre oil or should I not worry about that? How much fuel should I have in the tanks? How should I flow fuel through the lines before I start to clean out the lines?

Thanks

 

[N523RV]

Preparing for first flight/engine start

Larry,

If you are a member of the EAA, I would encourage you to get with a Flight Advisor. He can work with you on preparing for first flight. The FAA also has a Flight Test Handbook (AC90-89A) that is good information. If you will send me your email address, I can email you some flight test cards that several of us RV-9r's have used for flight testing.

You might search the forums for first engine start. There is some good information out there and things NOT to do.

 

[Mel]

Matthew is right on target. Get with an EAA Flight Advisor. AC90-89A is your guide for flight testing. It should be listed in your operating limitations.
Mel...DAR

 

[n468ac]

The only thing i would add is pre-oil the engine, right before the first start.

Remove the bottom spark plugs...
With the mags off, fuel off, and prop clear...
turn over until you get oil pressure...
Don't over run or over heat the starter.

 

[rv8ch]

Pull it through a few blades

One thing I did a few weeks before my first engine start was to pull the prop through about 30 blades every time I went into the shop, just to keep the oil flowing in the right places. When it came time for the first start, it took just a microsecond to start.

Obviously, ensure that the ignition is off when you are doing this!

 

[Larry]

My e-mail address is [email protected]

 

[vlittle]

Instructions for first engine start are summarized here:

Drain any preservative oil from the crankase. Drain the cylinders by removing the bottom plugs and turning the engine over by hand.

Fill the crankcase with 8q of oil and remove the oil pressure sender at the transducer manifold.

Turn the engine over by hand about 100 times until you see oil come out of the sender fitting. Reattach the sender and plugs and you are good to go.

My first start attempt took several attempts of short starter bursts to get going, due to the preservative oil in the cylinders. Subsequent starts have all been excellent. A lot of preservative oil was in the exhaust, so I had some clean up.

Keep your first run(s) on the ground short (less than 3 minutes), and shut down immediately if you don't get oil pressure right away. Ensure that your cowlings are always in place, or you can overheat the cylinders. This may not be intuitive, but it's true.

Others have recommended a good source for flight test cards. I also have a 9A POH work in process that I will send you.

Vern Little

 

[Mel]

One thing I did a few weeks before my first engine start was to pull the prop through about 30 blades every time I went into the shop, just to keep the oil flowing in the right places. When it came time for the first start, it took just a microsecond to start.

I'm going to have to disagree here. Pulling the prop through only wipes the oil off the cylinders. If you look at Lycoming preservative instructions, it says to preserve the engine and placard the prop "Engine Preserved. Do NOT turn prop." The prop should not be turned until ready to start the engine.
Mel...DAR/A&P

 

[rv8ch]

Pickled engine

I'm going to have to disagree here. Pulling the prop through only wipes the oil off the cylinders. If you look at Lycoming preservative instructions, it says to preserve the engine and placard the prop "Engine Preserved. Do NOT turn prop." The prop should not be turned until ready to start the engine.
Mel...DAR/A&P

Good point - I should have mentioned that my engine was not pickled, and it's a Subaru, not a Lyco.

 

[N941WR]

I'm going to have to disagree here. Pulling the prop through only wipes the oil off the cylinders. If you look at Lycoming preservative instructions, it says to preserve the engine and placard the prop "Engine Preserved. Do NOT turn prop." The prop should not be turned until ready to start the engine.
Mel...DAR/A&P

Mel,

I have heard this before and have one question. How do you make sure the prop and spinner are tracking straight if you can't turn the prop?

 

[Mel]

It is OK to turn the prop when you are ready to start the engine. If you need to turn the prop in the interim, after you are done with prop tracking or whatever, place 1/2 the pistons at bottom dead center and spray those cylinders with some kind of "fogging" oil through the bottom plug holes. Then rotate 180 degrees and fog the remaining cylinders. After this has been done to all cylinders, rotate the prop so that all cylinders are at the 1/2 way point, refog all cylinders and install desicant plugs and placard the prop "Do Not Turn".
Mel...DAR