how to install a RV7A "fuel valve box" in my RV6A

[0302lj]

sent this question to Vans, but given the current business situation figured may not receive a reply for a while....so now asking those that have done this before me...

Going with the RV7 fuel value box set up, vs what’s called for in the RV6A 49 drawing (calls for a vertical throttle/prop/mixture assembly)…Im going with the horizontal bracket attached to the bottom of the panel.

Ordered/received the RV7 materials for the fuel selector mounting (aka box).

Question is the 7 (36A) drawings don’t show how this attaches to the spar, so wondering how others have approached this. Obviously, pictures are also appreciated.

thanks for helping.

 

[Desert Rat]

On the RV7 the top plate picks up two nutplates that are common to the front of the seatpans, 4 at the top edge of the box and 3 down the vertical face of the brackets that the kickpanels covering up fuel lines fwd of the spar attach to.

Here's a picture of mine, but it's been modified a bit. Vans tells you that if you have electric trim you can cut off that tab at the front to the faceplate because thats where the cable for the manual trim is supposed to go. Instead of cutting it off completely, I bent it from the obtuse angle it started at to 90 degrees, flipped it over the other way and trimmed it down into a tab with another nut plate to attach to the box.

Hope that helps

 

[TS Flightlines]

Jerry----I have pics from several clients that did a similar install.
Email me at [email protected]

Tom

 

[Stevea]

7A style fuel selector mount in a 6A

Going with the RV7 fuel value box set up, vs what’s called for in the RV6A 49 drawing (calls for a vertical throttle/prop/mixture assembly)…Im going with the horizontal bracket attached to the bottom of the panel.

Ordered/received the RV7 materials for the fuel selector mounting (aka box).

Question is the 7 (36A) drawings don’t show how this attaches to the spar, so wondering how others have approached this. Obviously, pictures are also appreciated.

Here's what I came up with for exactly what you are trying to do. Pictures first:






I used the 6A side plates and top (valve mounting) plate, installing them per the 6A plans against the center wing spar. Note: the wing wasn't actually installed for this process...thus the spacers between the side plates and the spar carry through bulkhead to simulate the wing spar thickness.

As you can see, the tab on the forward edge of the top plate (for mounting the original designed vertical center throttle/prop/mixture mounting bracket) has been removed. Also, I installed the Andair valve instead of the Van's supplied valve.

The blue plastic covered part in the bottom 2 pictures is the center console floor cover for a 7A. The aft end has been modified to fit the 6A.

To finish it off, I blocked in the open front with a piece of foam, shaped the foam (rounded edges and corners), and laid up a fiberglass cover panel. The fiberglass cover is removable using screws along the side edges into the side aluminum plates, and screws along the front bottom edge into a flange attached to the 7A center console floor part.

I think you can see enough details and sharpie marks under the fiberglass to figure out the mounting screws. If not, let me know. I can take some additional photos if necessary.

 

[PaulvS]

I did something similar to Steve, in fact I think he helped me to get started with some pics. I did not make a fibreglass box and will probably leave the front open because it is out of sight.

 

[rockwoodrv9]

Steve, I like your fiberglass cover. I removed the metal one I built with my 9A and just have the top piece on it. It is not comfortable being a hard metal corner. I think I will cut it off at 45 degrees and lay up a cover like you did.

Nice work.

 

[Ralph Inkster]

My current 6A has a Newton duplex valve with it’s associated unique plumbing so was natural to do a custom enclosure, curved fiberglass sides with an aluminum top face plate.

 

[rockwoodrv9]

My current 6A has a Newton duplex valve with it’s associated unique plumbing so was natural to do a custom enclosure, curved fiberglass sides with an aluminum top face plate.

I would love to see a picture if you have one. The sharp corner on mine is not a good thing to have digging into your log.

 

[Ralph Inkster]

Unfortunately I am away for the next 5 months….

 

[JonJay]

The 7 has ribs and close out panels that cover the spar. They are angled while the 6 has no spar cover. I used the 7 parts and simply cut off the back flange. I took some sheet of the same thickness as the 7 box, extended the sides, and put a wide flange so I could capture this “bracket” under top and bottom spar bolts. The new “side” piece attaches to the 7 box sides with a couple of nut plates so you can get it off to inspect the area without removing the spar bolts and brackets.
Basically I turned an angled box into a straight box. The valve mounting plate attaches to the 7 box per 7 plans.

While we’re at it, I also incorporated the “dog house” box for FI Boost pump, filter ,and the plenum from the 7 that goes up the firewall. Gave me a place for all that stuff and the plenum has better cabin heat distribution due to some small directional louvers. All stock 7 stuff. Battery has to go on the firewall to do this.

 

[0302lj]

Thanks everyone

Now have an approach

Appreciated