NotMuchofaStall
Member
So I had to drill out (again!) a rivet in the inboard nose rib-doubler-spar-shim-main rib joint. I've had such a problem getting these rivets set and getting the parts to lay flat and not clinch, but I finally figured out that they're better squeezed, and to squeeze them you have to install them before installing the attach angle just inboard of them (which, once installed, pretty much forces you to buck, and bucking through all those parts requires a pretty high driving pressure, which I think is what's been giving me trouble).
Anyway, in the process of getting the rivet out, I must have nicked the side of the hole in the nose rib flange that mates to the doubler; it's just a little bit oversized, and only in one small spot where it goes to 0.137" for a #30 nominal hole. (The hole in the doubler got some dings around it, too, possibly while I was getting the rivet out of there.)
Van's says insert a rivet and build on... but that I could install a doubler on the nose rib flange (which I interpret to mean adding an 0.025" sheet (same thickness as the nose rib) the size of the nose rib flange with holes drilled to match). My questions for the group are:
Pictures (album at https://imgur.com/a/rCBg9pn):
The troublesome hole!
The corresponding hole in the spar doubler, if it matters.
Thanks for your help, everyone.
Anyway, in the process of getting the rivet out, I must have nicked the side of the hole in the nose rib flange that mates to the doubler; it's just a little bit oversized, and only in one small spot where it goes to 0.137" for a #30 nominal hole. (The hole in the doubler got some dings around it, too, possibly while I was getting the rivet out of there.)
Van's says insert a rivet and build on... but that I could install a doubler on the nose rib flange (which I interpret to mean adding an 0.025" sheet (same thickness as the nose rib) the size of the nose rib flange with holes drilled to match). My questions for the group are:
- Would you use a doubler here? Why or why not?
- If I were to use a doubler, what length of rivet should I use? I reason that I should use a 4-8 rivet because the parts to be riveted together (0.025" doubler + 0.025" nose rib + 0.125" spar doubler + 0.063" spar + 0.040" shim + 0.025" main rib) are 0.303", which would leave a 0.197" bucktail, and this exceeds the 1.5D (1.5*0.125"=0.1875") shown in the big diagram in Section 5 of the manual... but that's the same rivet length without the doubler, so...
Pictures (album at https://imgur.com/a/rCBg9pn):
Thanks for your help, everyone.