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Help removing cylinder

A

abuura

Well Known Member
I am in the process of removing the #1 cylinder off my Mattituck TMXO-360. So far, I've only been able to pull it about 4mm away from the case. I've sprayed Kano Kroil all around the gap, under direction of an A&P and plan to get back to work tomorrow.
I understand it is not acceptable to use any materials to pry away the base of the cylinder from the case, even wood or plastic shims. One A&P suggests using a rubber mallet to tap on the case-side of the head to help get the jug off.
Question is, would it be acceptable to put a loop of rope through the rocker shaft bore and use a slide hammer to help pull? Does anyone know any other technique that won't cause damage? Thanks.
 
Don’t use pry tools or a slide hammer.. are you SURE you pulled the oil drain back hose? Primer? Intake and exhaust are clear? It should just pull off.. I start disassembly with the piston at TDC so that it doesn’t turn the crank as you remove it..
 
Taltruda said:
Don’t use pry tools or a slide hammer.. are you SURE you pulled the oil drain back hose? Primer? Intake and exhaust are clear? It should just pull off.. I start disassembly with the piston at TDC so that it doesn’t turn the crank as you remove it..
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Good questions but yes to all of them. One IA says he’s had to spend two hours wiggling a cylinder with an assistant until it finally came off. Don’t really want that kind of solo workout, so I’m looking for other tips. YouTube videos all show the cylinder coming out easily, but that’s not been my experience so far.
 
I have never had much trouble getting a cyl off, so struggling to understand what might be causing this. It is a somewhat tight fit at the base and wonder if you are letting the cyl fall a bit and this is causing the hang up due to the angle. The rings are dragging along the cyl, so there is going to be some resistance. May want to try turning the crank and see if the cyl moves easilly then. That will separate ring drag resistance from some other issue going on at the base flange.

The steel cyl is sitting in an alum case ring, so DO NOT hit it with a hammer.
 
lr172 said:
I have never had much trouble getting a cyl off, so struggling to understand what might be causing this. It is a somewhat tight fit at the base and wonder if you are letting the cyl fall a bit and this is causing the hang up due to the angle. The rings are dragging along the cyl, so there is going to be some resistance. May want to try turning the crank and see if the cyl moves easilly then. That will separate ring drag resistance from some other issue going on at the base flange.

The steel cyl is sitting in an alum case ring, so DO NOT hit it with a hammer.
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This resistance happens regardless of the angle of the cylinder ref the case, it wiggles up and down some, laterally a tiny bit. The piston moves freely up and down, as observed through the spark plug hole. I set it to TDC to ensure I get max opportunity to capture it when the cylinder finally comes free.
The A&P who gave me the Kano Kroil speculates that it will help dissolve a small bit of crud/debris that may be interfering with the very close fit between the barrel and case opening.
Again, an IA next door says he’s had this happen and I’m just looking for an alternate solution to wiggling on it for two hours. So far, responses confirm that’s my only option and that any kind of mechanical “pull” on the cylinder assembly is inadvisable. I will get to find out tomorrow whether the Kano method helped.
 
If the air pressure gets high enough, the suddenly loosening cylinder might turn into a nice projectile. Might work but I would proceed with extreme caution.
 
Push it back on, torque just the big nuts, and rotate the engine with lots of lube sprayed into the bore. Get it all loosened up and try again with the cyl at TDC.

Mine was also a pia to get off, turns out the rings were delaminated and packed with flaked moly. Made everything sticky.

I wouldn't go nuts rotating the engine with no torque on the through bolts.
 
rmarshall234 said:
With the valves closed and bottom plug in, apply shop pressure to other spark plug hole? Just spitballing here…
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That’s a good thought. I’ll try it. With piston at bottom center (prop won’t turn) I’ll start with 20psi on the differential side and work my way up carefully.
 
RheinRivets said:
If the air pressure gets high enough, the suddenly loosening cylinder might turn into a nice projectile. Might work but I would proceed with extreme caution.
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If you were to go in this direction, it would work if the piston was at the bottom of the stroke and use hydraulic pressure = no projectile... full control.

I think the penetrating oil should work for you.
 
gasman said:
If you were to go in this direction, it would work if the piston was at the bottom of the stroke and use hydraulic pressure = no projectile... full control.

I think the penetrating oil should work for you.
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I’m hoping it does. Lycoming support says using the thick end of a wood shim to rock against would be acceptable too.
 
abuura said:
That’s a good thought. I’ll try it. With piston at bottom center (prop won’t turn) I’ll start with 20psi on the differential side and work my way up carefully.
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Be careful here... 20 psi will apply over 400 pounds force.

If you are going to use air, start at O and work your way up to 5 psi.

If that doesn't work, then go hydraulic.
 
Go and climb into the cockpit and yell “clear prop” and start the engine.. it’ll come off..it might sound like Dreadnaught for a few seconds..
 
fluid, not air

if you are going to try air pressure, I would fill the cylinder with fluid, like alcohol or something, to minimize the volume of air, and the resulting pop.

But remember, you are going to be applying force to something that is hanging up, like coked deposits or something, so that force is going to be exerted on something that hopefully, will be able to take it.
 
Heard a funny story recently. Difficult, rusted cylinders on a radial. They would fill the cylinder with Oxygen/Acetylene and light it. Would get it right off, and occasionally hit the ceiling.

Please don't try this. Just thought you would get a laugh out of it.
 
Mystery solved. Relooking the situation before getting to work this morning, I noticed that what I initially thought was a dead bug stuck between the #1 and #3 barrel fins. Instead, I determined it was a 1/2" #6 stainless screw that fell in sometime in the last 16 years and was hung up between the fins. Fished it out and the cylinder slid out normally.
 
abuura said:
Mystery solved. Relooking the situation before getting to work this morning, I noticed that what I initially thought was a dead bug stuck between the #1 and #3 barrel fins. Instead, I determined it was a 1/2" #6 stainless screw that fell in sometime in the last 16 years and was hung up between the fins. Fished it out and the cylinder slid out normally.
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Excellent! It is amazing how often I solve frustrating problems by walking away for the night and looking at it fresh the next morning!!
 
Nice work

abuura said:
Mystery solved. Relooking the situation before getting to work this morning, I noticed that what I initially thought was a dead bug stuck between the #1 and #3 barrel fins. Instead, I determined it was a 1/2" #6 stainless screw that fell in sometime in the last 16 years and was hung up between the fins. Fished it out and the cylinder slid out normally.
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Nice work, David

This forum distinguishes itself in two very important ways IMO…

1 Moderators that actually moderate and control the discussion
2 OPs that actually follow up and close-out discussions

Very refreshing
 
Starter fluid

climberrn said:
Heard a funny story recently. Difficult, rusted cylinders on a radial. They would fill the cylinder with Oxygen/Acetylene and light it. Would get it right off, and occasionally hit the ceiling.

Please don't try this. Just thought you would get a laugh out of it.
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Glad the OP found the problem before blasting it off!

Laugh, but many off roaders keep a can of starter fluid in the tool bag. Great for kicking off a stubborn engine. Where it really comes in handy is when the tire separates from the bead. We run air pressure so low the tires can break a bead. I run 5psi in mine.
Take the wheel off the buggie. Spray a couple seconds inside the tire then draw a line away from the tire for a fuse. Light the fires and kick the tires!
No more than a couple seconds or it gets really interesting.
 
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