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Help! New RV-8 Owner with questions

A

[email protected]

I'm New Here
I'm thrilled to have finally purchased an RV-8. I have a couple of issues which I was unable to answer with prior posts. Maybe I didn't look in the right location.

I'm 6'4 and needed to move the rudder assemble all the way forward. Now that it's moved I need to replace the rudder cables that connect the front rudder assembly with the rear assembly. I need to find cables that are two inches longer than the current cables. Can you purchase the cables or do you need to fabricate new cable assembles?

The tailwheel mechanism has springs on both sides instead of the single bar. The mechanism unlocks during straight taxing. You can manually lock the wheel to the rudder but it unlocks without even turning the aircraft. Are the adjustments that can remedy the situation or will i need to purchase a new tailwheel assembly. Do you purchase the entire assembly or the assembly minus the wheel.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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[email protected] said:
I'm thrilled to have finally purchased an RV-8. I have a couple of issues which I was unable to answer with prior posts. Maybe I didn't look in the right location.

I'm 6'4 and needed to move the rudder assemble all the way forward. Now that it's moved I need to replace the rudder cables that connect the front rudder assembly with the rear assembly. I need to find cables that are two inches longer than the current cables. Can you purchase the cables or do you need to fabricate new cable assembles?

The tailwheel mechanism has springs on both sides instead of the single bar. The mechanism unlocks during straight taxing. You can manually lock the wheel to the rudder but it unlocks without even turning the aircraft. Are the adjustments that can remedy the situation or will i need to purchase a new tailwheel assembly. Do you purchase the entire assembly or the assembly minus the wheel.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

As far as your tailwheel problem, Have you checked whether or not your tailwheel assembly might need some maintenance? If it's too far gone, you might look on Van's for replacement parts, but probably not. That looks like a Van's tailwheel fork. Part numbers for the parts like the square pin and small centering pin spring can be found in the "contents" of the "Full Swivel Upgrade kit" on the Van's web store. I even have one I could maybe part with. But look first and see if it just needs a little TLC. This article gives a great overview if you need it: https://www.kitplanes.com/tech-tip-tailwheel-tune-up/
 
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[email protected] said:
I'm 6'4 and needed to move the rudder assemble all the way forward. Now that it's moved I need to replace the rudder cables that connect the front rudder assembly with the rear assembly. I need to find cables that are two inches longer than the current cables. Can you purchase the cables or do you need to fabricate new cable assembles?
Click to expand...

You can measure the new length and custom order via Aircraft Spruce.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cableassy.php?clickkey=4047
 
As mentioned above, your tailwheel assembly may just need some TLC.

FlyBoy Accessories and JD Air Parts also carry replacement tailwheel parts. Below is a link to FlyBoy Accessories tailwheel maintenance document:


When you take it apart, if the notch in the steering arm for the locking pin is worn, this replacement has a handy tie down ring built-in:


You may want to replace the locking pin and spring in any event.
 
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There's a square pin in that tailwheel fork that gets rounded off over time. Likely just needs to be replaced. Jack the tail from the stinger, and pull that vertical bolt out to get it all apart. Your chains look a bit tight as well, which can tend to make the tailwheel "breakout" to full swivel easier.

+1 for ditching the chains and going to cables. West Marine has everything you need. They say 1/16" is thick enough, but I used 3/32".

Also, throw that little wire clip on the forward end in the trash. I've had one fail on landing and while it was a non-event, it made a racket and the chain I had on at the time slapped around and beat the **** outta my rudder.
 

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As for the amount of slack in the chains, Van's recommends 1/2" of slack:

i-RJJssKd-L.jpg


It should be adjusted such that the tailwheel does not unlock under full rudder deflection, but needs a nudge of brake to unlock it.
 
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Not sure you got a good answer on your rudder cables.
I am a RV-7/9 guy so I may be way off base but I believe you keep the same cable and lengthen the metal straps up front. This is how it is done on the other side by side RV's.
I found some support to my thinking online.

https://www.rv8-hangar.com/rudder-pedal-work/
 
Thanks for your suggestions. I was thinking about having Aircraft Spruce make the new cable but didn't have faith that they will get it right. My direction to them may be flawed. I may try the local boat yard to see if they can fabricate the hardware and then fall back to aircraft spruce as a 2nd option.
 
Thanks for your suggestions. I was thinking about having Aircraft Spruce make the new cable but didn't have faith that they will get it right. My direction to them may be flawed. I may try the local boat yard to see if they can fabricate the hardware and then fall back to aircraft spruce as a 2nd option.
 
[email protected] said:
I'm 6'4 and needed to move the rudder assemble all the way forward. Now that it's moved I need to replace the rudder cables that connect the front rudder assembly with the rear assembly. I need to find cables that are two inches longer than the current cables. Can you purchase the cables or do you need to fabricate new cable assembles?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

I"m not an RV-8 guy and have never studied the connections between the fore and aft pedals. But can't you just fabricate longer metal links that connect the cables to the pedals (that would be the solution on the -10 or the -6)?
 
Like Mark and Ron said there should be some metal straps with multiple holes on the rudder cables. You should be able to move those instead of making new cables.
 
The F852D is 65 cents from Vans is for the ground adjustable pedals. I think this is what you are seeking. Looks like 4 will be needed but perhaps another builder can verify that has the ground adjustable pedals installed.

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Webb said:
The F852D is 65 cents from Vans is for the ground adjustable pedals. I think this is what you are seeking. Looks like 4 will be needed but perhaps another builder can verify that has the ground adjustable pedals installed.
Click to expand...

I have the ground adjustable on mine and can verify that you need four of the strips.
 
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