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Hardwired USB power suggestions?

mburch

mburch

Well Known Member
Patron
My panel currently has a 12V "cigar lighter" socket, in which I've been using a plug-in USB adapter to charge my phone. Since the old-school socket is pretty much obsolete these days, I'd like to change this out for a dedicated, hardwired USB receptacle. I'd ideally like to find one that fits in the existing round hole without any other fasteners, so I don't have to mess up my panel labeling. And of course I want one that's not going to melt, burn up, or generate a bunch of RF interference. USB-C would be great, since that's the way everything is headed in the future, but USB-A (rectangular plug) is acceptable too.

A google search yields hundreds of options, but it's hard to tell if any particular one is suitable for aircraft use. Anybody have a suggestion based on positive experience?

round-dual-usb-power-socket-k426515-1.jpg
usbr12v2_0.jpg
Hot-Product-Ds-Series-Dual-USB-Outlet-3-1A-Port-Socket-12-Volt-Outlet-LED-Car-Charger-USB-for-Car-Boat-Motorcycle.webp


Current "cigar lighter" socket in my panel:

1755974907331.png
 
Matt

I found this comparison of USB charging ports helpful while researching my options. I'm going with the crazy overpriced Garmin GSB-15 ports on the panel. Not sure for the cigar lighter hole between the seats.
 
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Don't spend crazy amounts on Garmin/certified USB ports. Why not a powerwerx or similar with up to 65w output? $40. https://powerwerx.com/panel-mount-usb-65w-qc40-typec-pd Steinair sells them too.

Here is AI answer also highlighting powerwerx. I use them.

If you're looking for panel-mount USB charging ports with the highest power output, here's what I found:

Top Performers & Leading Options​

1. Power Delivery panel-mount units (~60 W output)​

  • Powerwerx PanelUSBQC4.0: USB-C QC4.0 port delivers up to 60 W with 20 V input; compatible with multiple fast-charging protocols including PD 3.0/PPS, QC4.0+, QC3.0, etc.
  • Coolgear USB Power Delivery 60 W Industrial Panel Charger: Flush-mount, dual-port USB-C charger rated at 60 W.
These seem to offer the highest USB-C output in standard panel-mount form—up to 60 W.

Other Notable Panel-Mount Chargers​

  • PM-2USB-2PD (Batteries America): Four-port charger (2× QC3.0, 2× USB-C PD) with a max combined output of 78 W. Each Type-C PD port supports up to ~20 V/3 A (~60 W combined across ports).
  • Impulse Electronics Panel Mount USB-C + QC3.0 PD: USB-C PD port up to 18 W only.
  • Steinair Dual A/C USB Panel-Mount Charger: USB-C QC4.0 up to 36 W (12–14.9 V input), up to 27 W (9–11.9 V input).
  • Cliff-Top Dual USB Charger: 5 V/4.2 A on USB-A only (~21 W), not USB-C PD.
  • Powerwerx PanelUSB-Plus: Dual-USB (A), 4.8 A total (~24 W).

Summary: Highest Panel-Mount USB-C Power Delivery​

ModelUSB-C Power Delivery Maximum
Powerwerx PanelUSBQC4.0Up to 60 W
Coolgear 60 W Panel Charger60 W
Others (Impulse, Steinair)18–36 W
Multiport Combined Unit78 W combined (multiple ports)
→ Best standalone choice: Powerwerx PanelUSBQC4.0 or Coolgear 60 W panel for single-port high power delivery (~60 W).
→ Best combined multi-port option: PM-2USB-2PD for up to 78 W across multiple ports.

Product Recommendations​


  • If you need the highest USB-C power delivery available in a standard panel-mounted form (up to 60 W), this is the top pick.

  • Best fit if you prefer multiple USB ports and want up to 78 W total output shared across those ports.

Final Recommendations​

  • For maximum single-port output, go with Powerwerx PanelUSBQC4.0 or Coolgear’s 60 W unit.
  • For multi-port flexibility, PM-2USB-2PD offers the most aggregate power.
  • If you need even more (e.g., 100 W or higher), your best bet may be to consider off-board chargers rather than panel-mount units, as few panel-mount models exceed ~60 W.
Need help selecting based on your input power (12 V or 24 V), device compatibility, or ruggedness? Feel free to ask—I’ve got your back!
 
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OP I have a pair of the Amazon ones, one on each side. They've worked fine so far, but all I've powered has been my phone and a cheap Bluetooth music pickup. Perhaps I shouldn't have mounted them right next to the headset jacks but it hasn't caused problems.
 
Not sure the output on the Amazon ones but buy the fastest charging = highest wattage output. The USB c PD are currently the way to go with up to 60-100 watts. Standard USB A is about 15w. (2.5-3 amps). Night and day in charge time. You can either get a combo USB c pd/USB a if you need the USB a, or get two USBC , one with PD and use an adapter for usbc-a when you need an USB a (rectangle plug). The future is going to be all USB c. Hope that helps.
 
raabs said:
Not sure the output on the Amazon ones but buy the fastest charging = highest wattage output. The USB c PD are currently the way to go with up to 60-100 watts. Standard USB A is about 15w. (2.5-3 amps). Night and day in charge time.
Click to expand...
I'll second this. I like Blue Sea Systems stuff but I don't think they made a comparable product to their USB A (which are great) for USB C. C is much faster charging.
 
skirting_virga said:
I'll second this. I like Blue Sea Systems stuff but I don't think they made a comparable product to their USB A (which are great) for USB C. C is much faster charging.
Click to expand...
Just be careful with high charge rates if you are going to used the port with you iPad. The higher the charge rate, the higher the temp, and the iPad is sensitive to heat. I find my USB-A ports (2.8 amp) can cause my iPad Pro (M4) to overheat on a warm day, so I leave it unplugged and fly on its battery.
 
mburch said:
My panel currently has a 12V "cigar lighter" socket, in which I've been using a plug-in USB adapter to charge my phone. Since the old-school socket is pretty much obsolete these days, I'd like to change this out for a dedicated, hardwired USB receptacle. I'd ideally like to find one that fits in the existing round hole without any other fasteners, so I don't have to mess up my panel labeling. And of course I want one that's not going to melt, burn up, or generate a bunch of RF interference. USB-C would be great, since that's the way everything is headed in the future, but USB-A (rectangular plug) is acceptable too.

A google search yields hundreds of options, but it's hard to tell if any particular one is suitable for aircraft use. Anybody have a suggestion based on positive experience?

round-dual-usb-power-socket-k426515-1.jpg
usbr12v2_0.jpg
Hot-Product-Ds-Series-Dual-USB-Outlet-3-1A-Port-Socket-12-Volt-Outlet-LED-Car-Charger-USB-for-Car-Boat-Motorcycle.webp


Current "cigar lighter" socket in my panel:

View attachment 95789
Click to expand...
Those are all cheap ones pictured. Go with the blue sea version. Well made, reliable and noise free.
 
I purposely selected a low output USB device for my aircraft based on my need to only maintain or slightly increase the battery level in my iPad or like device. I’m a bit leery of high charging rates and the potential dangers that come with increased battery temps as I don’t have a way to toss the offender overboard. It may be over cautious but a battery fire is scary.
 
Never had a battery issue on a high charge rate Exclusively use 100w chargers at home for iPads, iPhones and Samsung. A 2.8a USB will barely keep up and many times fall behind. Futureproof yourself.
 
Matt,

When I Garminized my panel this year, I specifically and very intentionally kept my "old school" cigar socket because of the constant design changes of USB and the myriad devices I use to connect to them. Let's see: We now have USB-A, USB-B, USB-C, Mini-USB, and Micro-USB. There are cigar lighter sockets for virtually all of these designs, and they are all dirt cheap if I need to get a new one when the USB brain trust designs something else in the future. That's why I kept mine, wired to my battery bus with #18 on a 10A circuit. It cranks whatever needs juice just fine.

I love your panel, by the way! (y) I especially love that "old school" cigar lighter! ;) My new GMA 345 already has a USB port, but my cigar socket gives me all the options possible without any worry about obsolescence. It can even light cigars!
 
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DRMA said:
Just be careful with high charge rates if you are going to used the port with you iPad. The higher the charge rate, the higher the temp, and the iPad is sensitive to heat. I find my USB-A ports (2.8 amp) can cause my iPad Pro (M4) to overheat on a warm day, so I leave it unplugged and fly on its battery.
Click to expand...
Agree with that. It is concerning when the iPad can use electrons faster than the socket can supply though.

A lot of the heat comes from high brightness - if not the backlight, the battery power required to keep it that bright. I can usually limp it along while charging once at cruise altitudes with cooler air.
 
raabs said:
Never had a battery issue on a high charge rate Exclusively use 100w chargers at home for iPads, iPhones and Samsung. A 2.8a USB will barely keep up and many times fall behind. Futureproof yourself.
Click to expand...
The problem comes when the heat from charging is in addition to heating from the sun hitting the Ipad with high ambient temps. Had the Ipad get really warm to the point of shutting down once or twice.
 
RVDan said:
The problem comes when the heat from charging is in addition to heating from the sun hitting the Ipad with high ambient temps. Had the Ipad get really warm to the point of shutting down once or twice.
Click to expand...
Me too. It's a constant problem. iPads really aren't great in high temps.
 
I installed a couple of the Blue Sea PN: 1045 years ago, fits in the standard round hole, no issues.
 
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RVDan said:
The problem comes when the heat from charging is in addition to heating from the sun hitting the Ipad with high ambient temps. Had the Ipad get really warm to the point of shutting down once or twice.
Click to expand...
Definitely need to keep the iPads out of the sun, whether charging or not, or they'll get too hot and shut down. Ever leave a phone on your car seat in direct light for 20 min? I drape a towel or cardboard nearby to block sun.
 
dpansier said:
I purposely selected a low output USB device for my aircraft based on my need to only maintain or slightly increase the battery level in my iPad or like device. I’m a bit leery of high charging rates and the potential dangers that come with increased battery temps as I don’t have a way to toss the offender overboard. It may be over cautious but a battery fire is scary.
Click to expand...

This is exactly my plan and I'm glad you mentioned it. I don't need to charge from 1% to 100%, I just want my phone to still be topped off when I land. And I'm not a big fan of iPads generally, so powering one of those things isn't high on my todo list.

blaplante said:
SteinAir.
Click to expand...
mc607 said:
+1^
Why not support those that support us, VAF.
www.steinair.com

Dual USB Panel Charger, Type-A & Type C - Steinair Inc.

DUAL USB panel mount charging receptacle (power outlet). Intelligent device recognition allows rapid charging of phones, tablets, or other mobile devices. Input: 12-24 VDC. Output 5v @ 4.8A max. Cutout Dimensions Mounts in a 1 1/8 inch (29 mm) hole. … Readmore
www.steinair.com www.steinair.com
Click to expand...

Yes, we all love Steinair... but they are just reselling Powerwerx chargers with a substantial markup - I don't think they need my money that badly! ;)
 
mc607 said:
+1^
Why not support those that support us, VAF.
www.steinair.com

Dual USB Panel Charger, Type-A & Type C - Steinair Inc.

DUAL USB panel mount charging receptacle (power outlet). Intelligent device recognition allows rapid charging of phones, tablets, or other mobile devices. Input: 12-24 VDC. Output 5v @ 4.8A max. Cutout Dimensions Mounts in a 1 1/8 inch (29 mm) hole. … Readmore
www.steinair.com www.steinair.com
Click to expand...
Powerwerx are excellent. However this model outputs only 2.4a per port so 12w max which is very marginal, particularly for an IPAD pro etc. Stein also sells this model which is 65w and 45w and you just use a a to c adapter if u need A (which lowers the output). https://www.steinair.com/product/dual-usb-panel-charger-type-c/?v=0b3b97fa6688 . iPads, phones and devices will only take as much as they are designed for without overheating. It's not a risk to put a higher output device on it and it further proofs your $ and time. Here is a good summary from AI.

A high-output USB charger (like 30W, 60W, or even 100W Power Delivery chargers) will not force extra power into your device.

Here’s how it works:

The charger only offers power.
Think of it like an electrical "buffet" — the charger puts different "voltage/current options" on the table.

The device decides how much to take.
Your iPad, iPhone, laptop, etc. has internal charging circuitry that negotiates with the charger (using protocols like USB Power Delivery or Apple’s charging standard). It only draws what it’s designed for — usually around 10–30W for an iPad, depending on the model.

Overheating risk:

Using a genuine or reputable charger: safe. The iPad won’t overdraw and won’t overheat just because the charger can supply more.
 
skirting_virga said:
iPads really aren't great in high temps.
Click to expand...
I didn't want to contribute further to thread drift so I started a new thread on iPad overheating potential solution:

iPad Heat Reflection

We have (almost) all had our iPad shut down due to overheating. Summertime temperatures, direct sunlight through windscreen/canopy and perhaps charging at the same time are all factors leading to a shut down. So many of the iPad mounting cases are black, the Quad Lock case I use included, adding...
vansairforce.net
 
raabs said:
Stein also sells this model which is 65w and 45w and you just use a a to c adapter if u need A (which lowers the output).
Click to expand...
Thank you raabs. I’m gonna order that one in stead of the A-C. It appears all the devices I would have in the plane are C anyway. If you haven’t read enough on this topic, here’s another bit of information on USB charging (for those of us who can remember when beer can tabs were removable).
ipadpilotnews.com

iPad charging tips for pilots—it's all about the watts : iPad Pilot News

Charging technology has come a long way since 2010 when the iPad first debuted. Here's what to look for when upgrading your charger and cables.
ipadpilotnews.com ipadpilotnews.com
 
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raabs said:
The device decides how much to take.

Overheating risk:

Using a genuine or reputable charger: safe. The iPad won’t overdraw and won’t overheat just because the charger can supply more.
Click to expand...
Exactly!
When I designed the charge controller for the CQ Headset with Bluetooth, I made the choice to be very conservative, for all the obvious reasons. It doesn't matter how much current you provide, it is just going to sip on it with a very controlled and accurate charge profile. This includes secondary temperature monitoring as another charge control input. I don't know (ok, maybe I do) what other manufacturers that source their controls from unnamed offshore entities are doing, but I sleep well at night with my control in the cockpit.
 
Has anyone installed a MagSafe charger? This could be a cool thing to put in the centre tunnel - would hold your phone magnetically.

campervanbuilders.com.au

12V Wireless Pop Up USB-C + USB-A Phone Charger for Campervans and RVs

Upgrade your campervan or RV with a 12V Wireless Pop Up USB-C + USB-A Phone Charger. Fast charging with wireless Qi capabilities, USB-C, and USB-A ports. Perfect for caravans, motorhomes, and boats. Easy installation.
campervanbuilders.com.au campervanbuilders.com.au
 
TASEsq said:
Has anyone installed a MagSafe charger?
Click to expand...
That looks pretty slick, but I think that 60mm (2 11/32”) hole would need some modifications to the F-14123, for the 14. Standard oem cigarette lighter hole size is 1 1/8”.
 
TASEsq said:
Has anyone installed a MagSafe charger? This could be a cool thing to put in the centre tunnel - would hold your phone magnetically.
Click to expand...
Would need to fit into a 2 3/8 hole which is smaller than a normal cup holder. Does look pretty nice.
 
mc607 said:
That looks pretty slick, but I think that 60mm (2 11/32”) hole would need some modifications to the F-14123, for the 14. Standard oem cigarette lighter hole size is 1 1/8”.
Click to expand...
It wouldn’t be too hard to replace that part with one wide enough to fit a 60mm hole.

I was initially thinking just aft of the fuel selector, or between the spars but it won’t fit in either of those places.
 

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I like the concept but you’d be sticking 25+W of pure inductive EMF into close proximity to com radios or your antenna coax’s.

Auto OEMs had lots of issues early on integrating inductive chargers with no RFI. I’m sure a lot of aftermarket inductive chargers arent even truly Qi/Qi2/Magsafe standard let alone FCC compliant so so I’d definitely double and triple check for interference on all frequencies before i made any holes.

Even apple released a whole stack of USB to MagSafe chargers that were unusable in cars.
 
Richard Connell said:
I like the concept but you’d be sticking 25+W of pure inductive EMF into close proximity to com radios or your antenna coax’s.

Auto OEMs had lots of issues early on integrating inductive chargers with no RFI. I’m sure a lot of aftermarket inductive chargers arent even truly Qi/Qi2/Magsafe standard let alone FCC compliant so so I’d definitely double and triple check for interference on all frequencies before i made any holes.

Even apple released a whole stack of USB to MagSafe chargers that were unusable in cars.
Click to expand...
Good point.

I’ll probably just go with something like this.
 
TASEsq said:
Good point.

I’ll probably just go with something like this.
Click to expand...
Specs on the above below. I'm assuming that with the proper type C user the voltage gets stepped up (Ex using a Starlink antenna that needs ~40 watts) from 12 volts input even though the spec says, "Normal voltage: 24VDC"?

  • Normal voltage: 24VDC
  • Operating Voltage: 9V-30V DC
  • Peak Voltage: 34V DC(max)(3-4seconds)
  • USB TypeC -1 output:
  • QC4.0 (5V/3A/15W, 9V/3A/27W, 15V/3A/45W, 20V/3A/60W)
 
Been interesting to go down the rabbit hole - i was today years old when i learnt that USB-C 4.0 is not the same as USB-C PD!.
I might try the Powerworx but can't get it locally or on amazon.

So maybe one of these options - really hard to know if they will make any noise, but easy enough to replace. They all seem to fit in a 30mm holes.

Dual PD USB-C Car USB Port Socket with Power Switch Fast Charge Black for Car Boat RV Marine ATV : Amazon.com.au: Electronics

Dual PD USB-C Car USB Port Socket with Power Switch Fast Charge Black for Car Boat RV Marine ATV : Amazon.com.au: Electronics
www.amazon.com.au

 
TASEsq said:
Been interesting to go down the rabbit hole - i was today years old when i learnt that USB-C 4.0 is not the same as USB-C PD!.
I might try the Powerworx but can't get it locally or on amazon.

So maybe one of these options - really hard to know if they will make any noise, but easy enough to replace. They all seem to fit in a 30mm holes.

Dual PD USB-C Car USB Port Socket with Power Switch Fast Charge Black for Car Boat RV Marine ATV : Amazon.com.au: Electronics

Dual PD USB-C Car USB Port Socket with Power Switch Fast Charge Black for Car Boat RV Marine ATV : Amazon.com.au: Electronics
www.amazon.com.au

Click to expand...

I hope you came across this in your research 😎

 
dmattmul said:
Would need to fit into a 2 3/8 hole which is smaller than a normal cup holder. Does look pretty nice.
Click to expand...
That size is definitely on the smaller side, but if it fits a 2 3/8 hole securely, it should still work fine. The design does look nice, and pairing it with a custom coaster could help stabilize it if the fit is a bit loose.
 
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