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Ground power for EFIS training

grumman41

Active Member
Are there any options for ground power to facilitate EFIS training in the RV 6 without an external power plug? I’ve done most of the AFSs videos and have a solid background with several EFIS manufactures but would like to power up for some ground training.
Thanks in advance.
 
You could install a Car Cigarette Lighter Socket DC 12V Power Outlet in the panel. Then it will be possible to connect a battery charger through the lighter
socket. NOTE: It is important not to connect the battery charger before the BAT switch is in the ON position and disconnect the battery charger before turning OFF the BAT switch.

Good luck
 
Go onto one of the electronics vendor's sites - Mouser, etc - and search for a 30A bench power supply. There are several options. You should be able to get something that will output 12v/30A for around $60. Should be adjustable up to around 14.5v. I installed a socket near the oil door and connected it into the busbar side of the master solenoid. Works well for avionics set up. It will also charge the battery with the master switched on.
I don't like using battery chargers as they can pulse the battery which expensive avionics doesn't always appreciate.
Pete
 
This has worked well for me.

A little pricy but very good quality. Uses same circuit as my Optimax charger.

TekPower TP1830SB DC Adjustable DC Power Supply 1.5-15V 30A with Digital Display, Linear Output, Lab Grade High Stable and Low Ripple Voltage Reglator https://a.co/d/1WIyOWH
 
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I use my battery charger on SUPPLY mode where it acts like a power supply and provides clean regulated voltage so you can power up your radios and use them for training like you want and can even remove the battery if you want to service it outside or for any other reason.
 

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Thanks gents, I do have a panel mount “cigarette” receptacle on either side. I’m just moving slow as I learn how this wired. Mainly “internal” circuit breakers, etc. I’m not really sure what is protected, etc.
 
I recommend one of 2 things:

1) Use your A/C battery power and keep the battery topped up (in between sessions) with a maintenance charger.

-Or-

2) Power up your battery bus with a Ham radio operator grade power supply. The one I use is the MFJ 4230MV ($159.00 from GigaParts).

The inexpensive switching DC power supplies available from sources like Amazon do not provide clean DC.
 
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Thanks! I’m more use to turbine GP ops. This is a bit out of my wheelhouse.
To recap, it would be safe to plug these power supplies into my cigarette style panel plug?
 
Thanks! I’m more use to turbine GP ops. This is a bit out of my wheelhouse.
To recap, it would be safe to plug these power supplies into my cigarette style panel plug?

Safe? sure -- but it's likely not going to work very long.

The EFIS/accy equipment all On & running will probably draw more than the Cigarette Lighter CB/fuse is rated for.
 
Are there any options for ground power to facilitate EFIS training in the RV 6 without an external power plug? I’ve done most of the AFSs videos and have a solid background with several EFIS manufactures but would like to power up for some ground training.
Thanks in advance.

I used the batter charger to keep the battery topped off while powering up the EFIS and the rest of the avionics. I powered up the entire aircraft electric system, minus running the starter.

The model EFIS and LED lights take up very little power, just a few amps of current.

Battery Charger from Walmart
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStar...rt-BC40BE/438914356?athbdg=L1102&from=/search

With regard to the charger, if I hook it up in connection to the master circuit, it will tell me how much amps is being used by the aircraft electronics. That means the charger only works if the master switch is on, and it works like the alternator, providing more current as more electricity is demanded. You can incrementally power up each device and see the rise in amperage. When everything is powered up, you can see how much current the airplane draws.
 
Depends what size fuse

Thanks! I’m more use to turbine GP ops. This is a bit out of my wheelhouse.
To recap, it would be safe to plug these power supplies into my cigarette style panel plug?

Your cigarette lighter is protected by a fuse (most likely) exceed that and you will blow the fuse. Depending what your trickle charger circuit is rated ( if you have one you can use that). Most clamp directly onto the battery terminals if you need to pull 15 amps or more.
 
I used the batter charger to keep the battery topped off while powering up the EFIS and the rest of the avionics.

I strongly recommend never running electronics on a battery charger. They put out a lot of trash. I know some have a power supply mode but why bother? A good 30amp regulated power supply (with clean output) is just a few dollars more than this Walmart offering and can be used for everything you need (battery connected or not).

And no, having your ship battery in parallel does not act as a filter for the charger trash. This trash is AC ripple that rides on top of the DC voltage.

This one is what I use and recommend (but there are many options once your look beyond auto part stores):
https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/mfj-4230mv

Consider this simply a replacement for your alternator for hangar flying. It will run you panel and charge you battery(s) at the same time. I run it to a pig tail with connector I pull down from the bottom of the panel, the power getting to the ship via a “Shore Power” switch breaker (15A-20A will work fine). For those who take the step to make the panel removable this is the supply to run the panel on the bench.

For you pMag users remember powering up your ignition(s) with a battery charger connected is forbidden.

Carl
 
Please do what Carl suggests.

I strongly recommend never running electronics on a battery charger. They put out a lot of trash. I know some have a power supply mode but why bother? A good 30amp regulated power supply (with clean output) is just a few dollars more than this Walmart offering and can be used for everything you need (battery connected or not).

And no, having your ship battery in parallel does not act as a filter for the charger trash. This trash is AC ripple that rides on top of the DC voltage.

This one is what I use and recommend (but there are many options once your look beyond auto part stores):
https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/mfj-4230mv

Consider this simply a replacement for your alternator for hangar flying. It will run you panel and charge you battery(s) at the same time. I run it to a pig tail with connector I pull down from the bottom of the panel, the power getting to the ship via a “Shore Power” switch breaker (15A-20A will work fine). For those who take the step to make the panel removable this is the supply to run the panel on the bench.

For you pMag users remember powering up your ignition(s) with a battery charger connected is forbidden.

Carl

Using a cheap WallMart battery charger on decent electronics is the kiss of death to high end electronics. Your twin EFIS with a decent IFR navigator will draw north of 10 amps and not “just a few”.

FYI, Optimate chargers documents in their specifications they are safe for electronics but one needs to check the amps they will output. Mine put out only 5 amps but they do make larger units.
 
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I use a 12 volt, 40 amp power supply I purchased from Amazon. I hook the positive line to the back of my 70 amp master circuit breaker on the panel and the ground to a grounding point on the aircraft. Jason at Aerotronics suggested this to me several years ago and it’s worked great!
 
Too small

Wouldn't a power supply taken from a junk PC do the job?
.

Most pc power supplies are too small. My Chinese power supply is putting out 8 A just powering up the panel. Also make sure the voltage the panel sees is like 13.5 to 14 volts. If the panel draw is too much, and the power supply is overwhelmed, the output voltage will drop and mess up the G3x and other electronics.

Lastly, DO NOT hook up the power supply backwards, you will have a very expensive repair bill.

I have installed a diode bridge on the panel so that the power applied to the panel can never be “backwards”.
 
if you are thinking the system is pulling too much for the cig lighter, pull some fuses or breakers.
fwiw among other power sources i made one from a junk pc. the noise from it on an fm station is off the wall. i don't know if that relates to anything.
and before you buy a power supply with variable voltage picture your world if it was hooked up and the voltage got bumped or was not adjusted before hand.
 
Are there any options for ground power to facilitate EFIS training in the RV 6 without an external power plug? I’ve done most of the AFSs videos and have a solid background with several EFIS manufactures but would like to power up for some ground training.
Thanks in advance.

Timely. Limited-time deal for Prime Members: NOCO GENIUS10, 10A Smart Car Battery Charger, 6V and 12V Automotive Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, Float Charger and Desulfator for Motorcycle, ATV, Lithium and Deep Cycle Batteries https://a.co/d/h6DSoRk

If anyone needs a good multi-chemistry battery charger AND 12v power supply, this one is on sale today for a limited time. The spec for the PS side is 13.6v and 10 amps. On sale for half the price of the less capable system EarthX sells.
 
Timely. Limited-time deal for Prime Members: NOCO GENIUS10, 10A Smart Car Battery Charger, 6V and 12V Automotive Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, Float Charger and Desulfator for Motorcycle, ATV, Lithium and Deep Cycle Batteries https://a.co/d/h6DSoRk

If anyone needs a good multi-chemistry battery charger AND 12v power supply, this one is on sale today for a limited time. The spec for the PS side is 13.6v and 10 amps. On sale for half the price of the less capable system EarthX sells.

Make sure the charger is one accepted by your battery manufacturer so you don't lose your warranty or worst case your battery explodes.

Before I used mine on my two Odyssey PC-1200s I verified it was on the list of approved chargers.
 

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MegaWatt

I purchased a 30A switching power supply from here http://www.megawattpowersupplies.com/. It has been working flawlessly when I need to use ground power. At the time I purchased these seemed to be pretty popular w/the ham radio crowd. I plug it in to a powerlet port I put in the rear baggage bulkhead that is wired via a 15A connection to a fuse block directly connected to the battery. Runs my fully lit up panel all day and night w/o issue.
 
Ok, I did a bit of research and my RV does have a lead for power going directly to the battery. Does this change what type of power I can use?
 
Wouldn't a power supply taken from a junk PC do the job?
.

They can. But the problem is they put out 12.0V, which will work but we want a little more. Consider a full charged battery is likely 12.6V to 12.9V. So you can use one in place of a battery, but not connected to a battery. I bought one for $15 to test, it sits on the shelf. Battery charger connected to the battery has worked without problem.
 
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