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Greetings ...

J

jdm1248

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Just a note to introduce myself. I just started an RV-10 vertical stab after building all of the practice kits. A couple of years ago I did take the SportAir RV workshop which was a great intro. Way back in the 1990s, I started a Glassier Super IIS RG but a combination of a lack of time, not loving the build process, and finally a move, resulted in the sale of that start. Retired now with lots more time and very much enjoying the early steps of this project! I have owned the same Archer III for about 20 years. I look forward to continue learning from you all!

First stupid question: I am about to take the skin back off after final size drilling - is it now time to remove strips of the outer protective plastic (i.e. prior to deburring all the holes) ?

Thanks so much!

Jeff
 

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Yep. You want the plastic off before dimpling and deburring. I use a straight edged piece of whatever you have and a soldering gun with a smooth rounded tip. Heat the tip and slowly run it down the plastic along the straight edge on both sides of the row of rivets (one side if it's an edge). Leave enough room for your rivet set to clear the plastic, about 1" wide or so strips the length of the rivet rows. After peeling the strips of plastic you are ready dimple etc and the main portion of your part is still protected.

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If I ever build again I’m taking that plastic all the way off vs removing rivet line strips. Cutting out those strips is a waste of time and serves no real useful purpose IMO. Good paint prep will erase all but the most egregious mishandling evidence in which case the plastic wouldn’t have helped either.
 
Welcome aboard.

Some folks use a dull tipped soldering iron to remove blue vinyl around holes.
I did on VS and HS, won’t waste time again. Gotta scotchbrite all that shiny metal for primer before paint any how.



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Thanks everyone for the welcome and great input! I will wield the dull solder iron for a little bit and see how sick of it I get :)

Jeff
 

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Realize that leaving the plastic on can create corrosion at all of the edges. I did the rivet line thing using a soldering iron; I wouldn't do it again. It was time wasted and you have to be careful, as even a dull tip will scratch the aluminum...
 
Jeff, welcome to the RV family...

My first build was also a Glassier Super IIS RG in the 1990's. Never completed it due to a number of factors. Would have been a nice plane.

I spent quite a bit of time early in the build of my 14 removing the blue plastic from just the rivet holes in an attempt to protect every last possible square inch of the airplane only to get educated to what the paint prep process is like and the potential harm that it could do to the aluminum if left on long term. Stopped doing it and build went a lot faster.
 
Van recommends that you remove all the film before doing anything else! And I approve his message!
 
The forums are full of post from people asking for advice on how to deal with corrosion that developed under the vinyl they left in place for a few years while they worked on other portions of the project ( it always takes longer than most people thought it would)..
 
rvbuilder2002 said:
The forums are full of post from people asking for advice on how to deal with corrosion that developed under the vinyl they left in place for a few years while they worked on other portions of the project ( it always takes longer than most people thought it would)..
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rvbuilder2002 said:
The forums are full of post from people asking for advice on how to deal with corrosion that developed under the vinyl they left in place for a few years while they worked on other portions of the project ( it always takes longer than most people thought it would)..
Click to expand...
I use a piece of pvc pipe and peel up a corner of the blue vinyl, rolling it on the pvc while holding the skin down on a flat surface. (Like backward wrapping paper roll) easy peasy even with some vinyl on for 4-yrs… ( ya, I know, I’m waaaay behind)

No corrosion, but Montana humidity is super low.
 
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