I’m retrofitting the fiberglass leg fairings on my -4 and have some questions about the plans. Section 10 along with drawing C3 for those following at home; I believe this part is the same for all the round rod gear RVs.
First question I have is regarding the “no twist” condition that is checked with a square. Using the one end and clamping as the plans describe results in a slightly misaligned trailing edge in a couple places and eye-balling the fairing makes it seem ever so slightly off. Is there a trick to this or is the square at one end only an approximation?
Second, the trim template has trim lines for both ends and the trailing edge, however the initial trim instructions say not to trim the trailing edge. Problem is, I’ve read the entire section and I’m not seeing where the trailing edge is ever trimmed. Is the trim marking used for the piano hinge alignment but not actually cut?
Third, the plans were written back when the fiberglass parts were transparent. They describe marking the piano hinge and then match drilling. Now that the parts are shipped with the opaque gel coat, is there a best practice on achieving this? Would drilling the hinge on the bench then using the magnets to hole locate be the best path forward?
First question I have is regarding the “no twist” condition that is checked with a square. Using the one end and clamping as the plans describe results in a slightly misaligned trailing edge in a couple places and eye-balling the fairing makes it seem ever so slightly off. Is there a trick to this or is the square at one end only an approximation?
Second, the trim template has trim lines for both ends and the trailing edge, however the initial trim instructions say not to trim the trailing edge. Problem is, I’ve read the entire section and I’m not seeing where the trailing edge is ever trimmed. Is the trim marking used for the piano hinge alignment but not actually cut?
Third, the plans were written back when the fiberglass parts were transparent. They describe marking the piano hinge and then match drilling. Now that the parts are shipped with the opaque gel coat, is there a best practice on achieving this? Would drilling the hinge on the bench then using the magnets to hole locate be the best path forward?