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Fuse only on rotisserie?
- Thread starter lipper03
- Start date
I think you would at least need the tailcone cleco’d on.
Initially I wanted to rivet on the tailcone before going on the rotisserie, but once I climbed into the fuselage 20 times for 8 rivets, I decided to put it on the rotisserie. I can’t imagine how someone would rivet the tailcone on with it flat on a bench or the floor. It was immeasurably easier on the rotisserie.
In fact even now, in the canopy chapter, I’m still tipping it on its side (to connect the canopy latch links for instance). Although, it’s getting heavier and heavier to rotate so I’m trying to avoid rotating it as much as I can.
30-06 -> 08: Tailcone Riveting to Fuselage
A Build Log detailing the build of a Vans RV-14
tasrv14.blogspot.com
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Yeah, I've got it on it's side up on two sets of 2x4s right now, running fuel lines, and working brake system stuff, trying to do as much as possible before the join. I'm pretty space limited, so that's why I was thinking if I put the front stand on now, it would allow me to rotate it myself.I think you would at least need the tailcone cleco’d on.
Initially I wanted to rivet on the tailcone before going on the rotisserie, but once I climbed into the fuselage 20 times for 8 rivets, I decided to put it on the rotisserie. I can’t imagine how someone would rivet the tailcone on with it flat on a bench or the floor. It was immeasurably easier on the rotisserie.
In fact even now, in the canopy chapter, I’m still tipping it on its side (to connect the canopy latch links for instance). Although, it’s getting heavier and heavier to rotate so I’m trying to avoid rotating it as much as I can.
30-06 -> 08: Tailcone Riveting to Fuselage
A Build Log detailing the build of a Vans RV-14
I'm trying to convince myself I'm not going to bend anything by hanging it off the front like that. But I will say lifting both ends by themselves it's not been an issue, so maybe I just support it on the back with a stack of 2x4s and try moving it slowly....
Kinda sorta. Not a rotisserie but having it secured to the bench top made it really comfortable to work on . I used lots of foam bracing and pillows while it was on its side, but this is the only picture I have. The wood attach point on the spar carry through worked well to secure it, while I braced each end, before working on it. It also allowed me to flip it from one side to the other. I would lay it flat, move the wood brace to other spar and then stand it up on opposite side. I did it by myself but a second set of hands is always better. See page 29-04
Note: I had to make it perfectly clear to my wife that “DNR” means do not rivet.
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Well I tried and a 2x4 wood structure has too much give and so without more reinforcement, it won't work with just the fuse on the engine stand. So I have jack stands and 2x4s across as temporary supports on the back for now, and waiting on a hydraulic lift cart to get me by until I do the big join. I figure I'll just adjust the lift cart as I rotate and work in the meantime.
If one doesn't want to do the cart (about $200), you could make some supports, to set the rear of the fuse on. You'd need at least two heights, one for horizontal, one for rotated 90 degrees.
If one doesn't want to do the cart (about $200), you could make some supports, to set the rear of the fuse on. You'd need at least two heights, one for horizontal, one for rotated 90 degrees.
FYI I did have to cut the support piece on the bottom of the engine stand to allow for the 2x4 to rotate. But it works with a lift cart on the back of the fuse and can rotate with two people (one holding the fuse and rotating, the other to raise and lower the hydraulic cart lift).
