Fuse Block Help Needed

[BillL]

I have the G3X and a back up battery. There are 4 small sensor wires that connect to power. Main Volts, 2-amperage block, and trickle power for the IBBS. I need a 1, or 2, amp fuse for each and assume it should be located near the origin of power to avoid runs of unfused wires. I have these inline ATC fuse blocks but they are not tidy and will just be zip tied in a bundle. In searching for alternatives this fuse block came up:
(link : http://www.bluesea.com/products/5037/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_6_Independent_Circuits )

It has a complete cover not shown. So, what are others using for these fuses, and is there a better block alternative?

Location?
A. Close to the solenoids, hard to get to, but neat with short unfused run.
B. Through the firewall? Pass through needed but then the fuse block could be accessed w/o removal of cowling.

Comments invited. I would like to get this ordered and moving. Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[Rupester]

I have the six-circuit fuse block from B&C, but the one you show looks compact and well made. I've not seen a smaller option.

 

[Brantel]

I like that one as well. I would stick with it...better than one with all of the fuses tied to a common....more options!

Keep it as close to the power source as possible but still accessible in case you need to replace or pull a fuse.

As far as the current shunt sensor leads, I always recommend a fusible link on those and keep em on the fwd side of the firewall right next to the shunt.

The G3X EMS sensor power outputs are internally current limited to low currents. I would not worry about fusing those. If you overload them, they just shut down.

On the main/aux voltage sensing wires, you can install a current limiting 1K ohm resistor close to the power source and this will limit the current so you don't need a fuse on that line either.

 

[Mike S]

Looking at the photo, it appears that the fuses can each be fed power independent of any other fuse. Or, ganged together with a jumper as needed.

This is a good thing for what you are doing, as you will most likely have a keep alive circuit to deal with.

Most of the fuses should be hooked up through either your master, or if you are running one, the avionics master, but the keep alive circuit needs to stay hot all the time, and not be switched.

 

[BillL]

Thanks guys!

Brantel - I like the fusible link idea, but Stein provided me with 22 and 24 gage wires already, so a +4awg is pretty small and under the cowl I would be more worried by the mechanical aero buffet there. The 1k ohm tip is great!

I found some made by LittleFuse too with 4 and 5 terminals but it did not have a good mounting for this application.

With this block, I can run each circuit separately, keep it covered, and minimize the unfused length while running externally of a harness. Hopefully, only a serious harness issue will blow these fuses.