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fuel tank woes

I was looking through the Northern Tool and Equipment catalog and came across some aluminum fuel tanks. I wonder if one of these would work as either a primary (with mods), or auxiliary tank in the -12.

Here's a link to a 20 gal. tank. There are other sizes as well.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200370675_200370675

Here's the website of the company that actually makes these. As you will see, they come in quite a variety of sizes and shapes. They also make custom tanks. I am not endorsing this company. I know nothing about them. I'm just passing along the info.

http://www.rdsaluminum.com/marine-custom.html
 
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Keep in mind that the baffles inside the RV-12 tank are VERY important!! Thus, replacement of the primary is not too feasible.
 
Well I just finished sealing up the window and adding "Bender's" fuel gage set up. I must admit (and this really kills me to say this ;)) that John's fix is a good "cure" to the RV-12 site glass issue. Certainly not for everyone, and the new glass might work fine, but since I had the tank out, and apart, I was not going to take the chance. Plus now I can see it in flight, and when I'm adding fuel. JMHO

Thanks John Bender for your pioneering the "Bender Site Glass Fix"

It was kinda fun to get proseal behind me ear again!
 
The only real test

There is only one "real" test for fuel tank leaks; that is fuel in the tank. A friend of mine who built an RV-10 did the (useless) balloon test and it was OK; he still had a leak. On my RV-8 it didn't leak for a year, then guess what? Do the best job you can, and hope for the best.
 
Are you guys mounting the gauge on the horizontal section of the top (near the filler pipe), or more forward on the slanted section ? I don't recall seeing any pics - would appreciate a picture if someone has one.

Thanks.
 
Toward front - deepest part

RV-12MarineGaugeinstalled100_1215.jpg


You can see it best in front. Tank is deepest in front, for best readings. Easy to see while filling.

John Bender
 
A number of things occurred that delayed my testing tank until yesterday. This is test number 6 or 7. The results are that the tank components which refers to sight glass, seams, rivets, and screws DO NOT LEAK!
THe cap on top of fill tube does leak a small amount of air which deflates the test baloon in about 24 hrs. I don't consider that a problem.
The tank is as ugly as it can possibly be. All covered with bits of pro seal warts everywhere it has to be and quite a few places where it doesn't.
I now need to find a rug like cover and some velchro to hide it. I don't intend to paint it as I am not that confident in it's long term performance. Hope I'm wrong about that.
Thanks for all the tips which helped me acheive this level of success.
Any ideas on hiding it?
Dick
 
dick seiders said:
A number of things occurred that delayed my testing tank until yesterday. This is test number 6 or 7. The results are that the tank components which refers to sight glass, seams, rivets, and screws DO NOT LEAK!
THe cap on top of fill tube does leak a small amount of air which deflates the test baloon in about 24 hrs. I don't consider that a problem.
The tank is as ugly as it can possibly be. All covered with bits of pro seal warts everywhere it has to be and quite a few places where it doesn't.
I now need to find a rug like cover and some velchro to hide it. I don't intend to paint it as I am not that confident in it's long term performance. Hope I'm wrong about that.
Thanks for all the tips which helped me acheive this level of success.
Any ideas on hiding it?
Dick
Click to expand...

Paint it with a stone finish like I did. Hides the proseal mess and is hardly noticeable after painting.

Prior to painting: http://martysrv12.blogspot.com/2009/05/fuel-tank-is-complete.html

After painting: http://martysrv12.blogspot.com/2009/05/finished-painting-canopy-frame-and-tank.html
 
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Tanks

I agree...the 'stone' really hides all the ugly proseal...I just today finished installing the tank, filler connection (with proseal) and the bottom feed and return lines...not too difficult working through those little inspection openings on the fuselage belly. The stone really will completely hide the proseal bumps and it all looks really "natural"
FWIW
 
Nice stone finish, but is there no way to clean up the excess pro-seal on the exterior? On the RV7 build I cleaned it up without ill effect...Whats different on the RV12 tanks?
 
Plugging leaks with Loctite 290

The speaker at our last EAA chapter meeting was a former Loctite salesperson who is quite knowledgeable about Loctite products. He recommended using Loctite 290 for plugging gasoline leaks. He said that it is compatible with gasohol. Loctite 290 has low viscosity and wicks into small crevices via capillary action. Here is the data sheet: http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/290-EN.pdf
Loctite 290 will NOT displace existing liquid. If the tank has been previous filled with a liquid, the leaks should be blown out with compressed air before Loctite 290 is used. Also keep in mind that Loctite 290 only cures in the presence of metal and absence of air. If the leak is in a tunnel through proseal, then the Loctite will not cure. I believe that Loctite will cure in a crevice with metal on one side and proseal on the other side. Loctite also sells an activator (7471 and 7649 mentioned in the data sheet) to accelerate curing.
Joe
 
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