Van's Air Force
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Front fuel tank attach point leak
- Thread starter ERJDriver
- Start date
Ralph Inkster
Well Known Member
Looks like a 6/7/8 tank. If I were doing the repair;
I’d pull the tank
I could remove the side access plate to get inside, but would rather cut an access hole in the back for access, that way I can see what I’m doing. Vans sells repair access covers.
Clean off the old Proseal real good, than apply a good layer over that whole area.
While I have access, I’d apply additional sealant to every joint & corner I can reach in there.
I’d pull the tank
I could remove the side access plate to get inside, but would rather cut an access hole in the back for access, that way I can see what I’m doing. Vans sells repair access covers.
Clean off the old Proseal real good, than apply a good layer over that whole area.
While I have access, I’d apply additional sealant to every joint & corner I can reach in there.
Daida
Well Known Member
+1 what Ralph says.
i had to remove my tank for a quite similar reason this spring.
Attention: DWG 16A does not show al tank-ribs. There is a Z bracket behind every tank rib which attaches the tank to the spar. There are 3 attach bolts in every Z bracket. DWG 17A shows 7 tank ribs, so there are 21 bolts to remove.
Drain the tank (grounding!!), disconnect fuel lines, remove skin screws and put clecos (appr. 4 are enough) in the upper holes, remove bolt in tank attach angle, remove Z-bracket bolts through the inspection panels (the 3 most inner bolts through the gap between fuselage and wing/tank), remove clecos and pull the tank forward.
You might want to disconnect the aileron pushrod/tube from the aileron and stick bellcrank. Leave it in the wing but place it most aft as possible for easier access to the Z-bracket bolts (not necessary but makes it easier).
Get a tiny ratchet and the tank repair kit from Van’s.
To be honest. Tank removal is easier than it seems and definitely worth it just for the access during the repair. Removal took me 2 hours. Putting it back on was even faster. I have a really nice & tiny ratchet and did not disconnect the aileron pushrod.
P.S. : If your plane is painted, I hope they loosened the tank screws 2 turns during painting.
i had to remove my tank for a quite similar reason this spring.
Attention: DWG 16A does not show al tank-ribs. There is a Z bracket behind every tank rib which attaches the tank to the spar. There are 3 attach bolts in every Z bracket. DWG 17A shows 7 tank ribs, so there are 21 bolts to remove.
Drain the tank (grounding!!), disconnect fuel lines, remove skin screws and put clecos (appr. 4 are enough) in the upper holes, remove bolt in tank attach angle, remove Z-bracket bolts through the inspection panels (the 3 most inner bolts through the gap between fuselage and wing/tank), remove clecos and pull the tank forward.
You might want to disconnect the aileron pushrod/tube from the aileron and stick bellcrank. Leave it in the wing but place it most aft as possible for easier access to the Z-bracket bolts (not necessary but makes it easier).
Get a tiny ratchet and the tank repair kit from Van’s.
To be honest. Tank removal is easier than it seems and definitely worth it just for the access during the repair. Removal took me 2 hours. Putting it back on was even faster. I have a really nice & tiny ratchet and did not disconnect the aileron pushrod.
P.S. : If your plane is painted, I hope they loosened the tank screws 2 turns during painting.
