On page 8-5 step 2, it says to match drill the spar cap to the spar flange with a 3/32 drill. The skin and spar are already drilled to a #40. Is there still a reason to start at 3/32 in these instances or is this just a result of older plans that need updating and we now just go straight to a #40?
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Final size holes
- Thread starter BrianP
- Start date
I have a short piece to wooden dowel that I glued a -3 rivet to one side and a -4 rivet to the other.
If it fits in the hole, you’re good to go. If not, grab a reamer to final size it.
If it fits in the hole, you’re good to go. If not, grab a reamer to final size it.
#40 drill...is the standard drill size for 3/32 rivets...obviously 3/32" -.093 and #40 drill is .098 this allows for .0025 a side for the rivet to swell as the shop head is formed.
you don't need to start with a 3/32" drill, then drill up...when match drilling, you are just transferring or back drilling holes, from one piece to the other.
S.
you don't need to start with a 3/32" drill, then drill up...when match drilling, you are just transferring or back drilling holes, from one piece to the other.
S.
Vans is not big on revision history on plans.
If the holes are already final sized to #40 there isn't a need to drill at all. Mark the step as completed and move on. You're going to have a lot of skipped steps with final sized holes throughout. Be careful to read each one because sometimes there will be an op that still needs to happen that's part of the same "final drill" step.
