Hi guys,
Btw, why doesn't vans publish data on the rv6?
What's an RV-6 ?
I've read post about "early & late" model rv6, and pre-punch and non pre-punch. Did/does vans pre-punch skins & ribs for later rv6?
I know models rv7,8,9,10,12, and 14 are prepunch.
Thanks Jeff,
I sincerely appreciate the information.
I wonder if I send the skins back to Vans that they would prepunch them for me.
Thanks Jeff,
I sincerely appreciate the information.
I wonder if I send the skins back to Vans that they would prepunch them for me.
This is very much true. It's also a great example of this mis-use of terminology. The "true pre-punched kits" are known as matched hole. Sorry but I'm a stickler for proper terminology.Personally, I would of preferred Van's not have punched my RV-6A wing skins. Unlike the true pre-punched kits where all of the holes line up, only having one item pre-punched makes locating all of the wing ribs with the holes in the spars and in the skin a little more time consuming.
Personally, I would of preferred Van's not have punched my RV-6A wing skins. Unlike the true pre-punched kits where all of the holes line up, only having one item pre-punched makes locating all of the wing ribs with the holes in the spars and in the skin a little more time consuming.
My best advice would be to not blindly believe all the dimensions on the blueprints ... measure one way .. the back measure to see if the dimension make sense ...
This is very much true. It's also a great example of this mis-use of terminology. The "true pre-punched kits" are known as matched hole. Sorry but I'm a stickler for proper terminology.
Hi guys,
I just purchased a slow build fuse, any words of wisdom or advice on starting a 6? I have lots of experience building an rv8, rv7, and rv9.
Be sure to RTFM. It's a different beast from the matched hole kits. If you don't have PP skins then you build the structure first, then lay the skins on the structure and trace the structure on the skin with a sharpie. You use the outline to pattern the holes. Use a straight edge to align the holes in the center of the rib flange tracing and a rivet fan to space them. Once you're sure all the holes will hit the flange where you want them, then you can drill the holes. Mark a centerline on the structure flanges and when you put the skin back on the structure the centerline should show up in the holes you drilled. That's a perfect world. The reality is that even straight ribs will wander when the skin is clamped down. So you need a pick or other way to get things realigned. Once you can see the centerline in all the skin holes do you drill thru them thru the ribs and cleco.
Interpreting the tracings and getting straight, evenly spaced rivet lines is part of the art form. If you have PP skins that is taken care of but you need to tweak the structure spacing so the centerlines will fall where the holes are.
A third option (already mentioned previously in this thread)... which is probably the easiest... is to predrill all of the rivet hole layout in the substructure.
Then put the skins in place and match drill from the inside. You can use pieces of plywood cut from the shipping crates to makes stiffeners for the tail cone bulkheads to keep them straight while drilling. Use a hole saw to add holes around the perimeter for clamps. Using this process assures that you will never come up short on edge distance.