I got some heat-indicating stickers from McMaster-Carr (170-200F in 10-degree increments) to make sure I?m properly cooling the mags.
Hi Bill, I think your earlier advice was to set max advance to 29.4; why the change to 25.2?
the system seem so to hunt a bit in the 26-28 setting range and I think I can feel when the ignition changes from one setting to the other..... Maybe I'm imagining it. I'm using the EngineBridge to see what it is doing.
Dan,Can't speak for Bill, but I will back him here. Base 20, advancing to 25 with decreasing MP appears to be right within a mixture range of best power to around 25 LOP. I have dual maps, but mostly just run 23 fixed. Cruising at peak to 25 LOP, 29 BTDC is slower for me, with higher CHT. A trusted source finds 29 offers a small advantage when leaner, i.e. 50 LOP or further....
I wondered if I could connect the other PMAG to the other RPM connector on the GEA24 and decided not to since the system would probably show it like it was a second engine and not as a redundancy.
I’ve been reading about the manifold plumbing. What route did you take? Im thinking of just using some barb fittings with the silicon tubing running over the the spare spot on the sensor manifold block.
I had a noise issue with my install. The Tach was reading way high. I put the diode in at AFS recommendation (12 v system), this helped. Ultimate cause: I use a shielded wire for the tach signal. I grounded the shield at each end. bad no-no. Cut the ground on the engine side and all was well.
I did the manifold pressure plumbing this morning using the kit from Aircraft Specialty, they have it all figured out, no guessing. They send everything needed, even the small stuff, highly recommended. . . .
I did the manifold pressure plumbing this morning using the kit from Aircraft Specialty, they have it all figured out, no guessing. They send everything needed, even the small stuff, highly recommended.
I'll take some pics when it's done ... getting close! (I spend a lot of time getting wire routing the way I like it)
I've been running PMags for almost 3 years using black silicone tubing and nylon fittings (from McMaster-Carr) for the plumbing, so I'd be curious to see how your setup looks.
I am not sure if this is correct. Your first take away was correct, in my opinion, as I have seen the cotter pin coming from both Lycoming and PMAG securely bent over the shaft but tightly as it has been mentioned.Well, glad I didn't decide to fire it up today ... appears I installed the drive gear cotter pins incorrectly.
The instructions say:
Make certain the cotter pin ends are secure and lay flat. The back wall of the accessory case will be close to the end of the shaft.
I took that to mean just make sure the cotter pin is laying flat on the top of the shaft with no excessive space.
After further review, I *think* what it means is to wrap the cotter pin around the castellated nut so none of it is above the shaft.
In either case, guess I need to pull them and re-do the cotter pins ...
... thinking it thorough, this will require re-timing them as well. Three steps forward, two steps back