Any issue with using stainless clevis pins or dowels for the door hing pins to help avoid potantial rust?
Also since my hinges are a bit sloppy (too much play), I?m thinking about a tiny bit oversized pin.
IMHO every RV-10 should include the "Plane Around" third latch system. The kit include new pins and blocks in addition to the center cam.
https://planearound.com/shop?olsPage=products/new-door-180-kit
Stainless steel is not magnetic. If you are using the magnetic door sensors it might not be a good choice.
-Marc
Todd was the prize. Yes, I'm referring to the four top door hinges and the pins/cutoff bolts that are used in them.
Todd was the prize. Yes, I'm referring to the four top door hinges and the pins/cutoff bolts that are used in them.
We eliminated most of hinge slop by simply installing two AN960-10L washers between the hinge halves. 0.032 thick and eliminated almost all play in the hinges. Cost $0.16.
Washers helped remove some of the horizontal slop. I fabricated temp oversized pins today and removed the rest of the vertical slop that was due to the AN3 bolt diameter being a bit small.
With all the initial slop, the door was moving around to much to do a quality door fitting. With slop removed, the door was easier to trim and opens and closes in the same spot every time. I will have permanent hinge pins machined next week.
Between the struts and (when closed), the seals, there's enough preload so the stock hinges and pins don't rattle around.
Guys I think he's talking about the 4 door hinge pins (the bolts) not the latching pins.
Most Stainless IS magnetic. 300 series is generally not, unless cold worked, wherasl 400 is magnetic. There are many other types of stainless; 17-4ph, etc.Stainless steel is not magnetic. If you are using the magnetic door sensors it might not be a good choice.
I placed/drilled my hinges so that the inner and outer hinges eyes create a light tension on each other in the horizontal axis (each canopy mounted hinge half is pushing firmly outboard against the other hinge half). This seems to give me a very reliable closing alignment. I can't see how reduced clearance in the vertical axis would make it any better. The key to door alignment is to stop horizontal pivoting of one hinge half relative to the other. tightly spaced eyelets (i.e. no space for hinge half to pivot) or tight clearance pins should achieve the same objective.
Larry
If there is vert slop, the the door can twist a bit if the front is down and the back is up or vice versa. I have over sized pins in now and it's a big nice difference to remove the vertical slop as well as horizontal slop.