Door fit problem--sanity check

[Auburntsts]

Ok so I've had my doors off forever finishing the interior. That was done sometime ago and I'm now working through my final tasks and reattached the pilot's door for the first time since attaching the seals (stock Van's). Of course now the door won't close. The interference seems to be worse at the bottom and the center latch can't overcome it. So, it would seem to me that the best solution is to go to work on the sill and remove some material. What say the brain trust?

 

[rleffler]

Ok so I've had my doors off forever finishing the interior. That was done sometime ago and I'm now working through my final tasks and reattached the pilot's door for the first time since attaching the seals (stock Van's). Of course now the door won't close. The interference seems to be worse at the bottom and the center latch can't overcome it. So, it would seem to me that the best solution is to go to work on the sill and remove some material. What say the brain trust?

Check your hinges. If they don't go back on right, they can do some weird things with the fit. It's easy to mix them up.

 

[Auburntsts]

Check your hinges. If they don't go back on right, they can do some weird things with the fit. It's easy to mix them up.

Good suggestion but I know it's not the hinges as they never came off the fuse. The only thing that's changed with the door from originally fitting fine to not closing is the added bulk of the seal.

 

[BillL]

I am building a 7 but a friend is building a 10. Does the seal mounting flange have a constant gap around the perimeter? I am assuming you already checked that before installation of the seal. ?

 

[BobTurner]

Yes, you have to re-fit them after adding the stock seal. It makes the door "tighter"; if too tight, start sanding again.