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DIY stick grip

I made these stick tops and just used a foam grip below.
IMG_8091.jpeg
 
I tried to 3D print my own but failed.

So I used one from an old (really old -- 15DB connector) game joystick.

Note that it extends down around the actual control stick so if the plastic were to break you're still holding the control stick.
StickGrip.jpg
 
And for the simpler kind, carved this out of a limb cut off the apple tree in my yard. Only has a push to talk. The rear one came out better, that is what is pictured.

IMG_4178.JPG

Having the rear stick in the the -8 means you can't do full inverted (stick hits the seat back) so it is usually out of the plane. That's why I have it home to take a picture. PTT wire was too long, so looped it back around explaining the extra wires. Should cut off that extra weight, but since I leave it on the ground all the time anyway ...
 
And for the simpler kind, carved this out of a limb cut off the apple tree in my yard. Only has a push to talk. The rear one came out better, that is what is pictured.

View attachment 55070
Having the rear stick in the the -8 means you can't do full inverted (stick hits the seat back) so it is usually out of the plane. That's why I have it home to take a picture. PTT wire was too long, so looped it back around explaining the extra wires. Should cut off that extra weight, but since I leave it on the ground all the time anyway ...
I would have thought that you never wanted the stick - as opposed to control stops - to limit control motion, inverted or not.
 
I would have thought that you never wanted the stick - as opposed to control stops - to limit control motion, inverted or not.

Its a problem common to all -8s. If you go full inverted the rear stick hits the seat. Made worse by the tall pilot option. I can get to about -0.8G or so with the rear stick in.
 
Mine was solid cherry, shaped exxactly like my Colt single action army with PTT on top and AP cancle at the trigger location.
 
Bicycle grip, Reverse brand R-Shock grips to be specific.

grip.jpg



What I really like about these grips specifically is
1) locking clamps with pinch screws on top and bottom so they're never, ever going to squirm around
2) special formula vibration damping rubber feels very nice
3) the outer locking clamp is also designed to lock in a cosmetic cap. The provided cap is just kleenex aluminum but it was easy enough to fashion a little coin out of some thicker 2024, into which I have mounted my PTT button.

rv2930_480x480.jpg



In general I think bicycle grips are a great option, you have endless choices in materials (foam, rubber, cork, leather) , grip diameters and shapes, aesthetic styles, and every one at economy of scale prices. The problem is how then do you mount all the buttons you need if you want trim et. al. on the stick itself? Steve looks like you have found the solution to that one, what you've built looks FANTASTIC and like it could readily work with pretty much any bicycle grip.

Frankly, if I hadn't already put my trim and AP disco buttons on the panel itself, I'd be demanding that you sell me a pair.
 
Here's the one in my RV-3B I'm slow-building.

Stick Grip.JPG


My flat-coat retriever, Sawyer, made sure that I completely understood the ergonomics of tennis balls before he passed. Since the push to talk switch is on the throttle, the tennis ball didn't need switches.

I mounted it by drilling a 1" hole into it, and riveting several universal-head rivets on to the stick at the correct location to act like buttons. The tennis ball is secure, yet removable and washable. Sawyer taught me about washing them, too. If it's ever needed, it's easy enough to install a new tennis ball stick grip.

It's light, meets the goals of KISS, and best of all, I like it.

Dave
 
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