SingleTrax
Member
I have a -6A with electric flaps. I don’t like them. I’d like to convert them to manual flaps. Anyone had any experience? Juice worth the squeeze? My electric flaps are inop at the moment.
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Convert electric to manual flaps
- Thread starter SingleTrax
- Start date
See if you can install the PH Aviation flap motor. I think it works for the -6A. A huge upgrade and reasonably priced. Absolutely love mine. Was never a fan of the original Vans motor.
The conversion is dirt simple because they (the 6) started that way, and was altered to be electric.
Contact me through a DM and I can provide you with a list of what you need and explain the conversion.
It IS a simple project with good advantages over electric. But, you need buttspace for it to work..... we will talk about that.
Contact me through a DM and I can provide you with a list of what you need and explain the conversion.
It IS a simple project with good advantages over electric. But, you need buttspace for it to work..... we will talk about that.
Search Van's store for "flap" and specify RV-6. They list the weldment (WD-613-PC) and other parts. They also sell flap motors and those are cheaper than the weldment.
Dave
Dave
If you search Van's for replacement motors, you'll find that they have moved to a new actuator. It looks oddly like...Pat's.
Don't ask me how I know.
Don't ask me how I know.
WHAT Was wrong with old flap actuator motor?
It needed some kind of limit switch added to it, and it was prone to having grease migrate into the windings.
Well cool... Sooooooooo if you have an RV-7 with the original flap motor what does it take to convert to the new and improved flap actuation motor... I want to do it. Thank you. (PS Sorry to hijack thread... )
There’s little doubt Pats motor is a good design and improvement but keep in mind there are thousands of original motors out there with tens of thousands of hours with no issues what so ever.
When a few folks were having issues with the grease migration, I took mine apart and inspected it. It was fine. 950 hours later, it’s still fine.
When a few folks were having issues with the grease migration, I took mine apart and inspected it. It was fine. 950 hours later, it’s still fine.
Van's will have a "retrofit" kit to be released soon—a couple of brackets, a new forward channel, side covers, and some hardware.
Pat's motor (and Van's) comes with internal limit switches, and a pot...so for newer installs, simplifies setting up EFIS driven flap positions without all the relays, add-ons, etc. Also eliminates the "safety wire" SB.
I have to wonder if/when old motors fail...sourcing replacements will be challenging (as Van's has discontinued them). I'll have one that's been unflown for anyone, as I've "retro'd" my bird for Pat's, using Van's parts/design updates.
That’s the beauty of Pats design. Basically a near drop in replacement. I wouldn’t bother fixing the old actuators.
To the OP. Have you flown a 6/6A with manual flaps? I like the control and feel, but man that handle makes a tight cockpit even tighter. No issues solo but….
As mentioned by most posts above- the easiest & probably best option would be to change out your actuator, or update your existing actuator with a flap controller of some sort either through your EFIS, SportPlane controller, or other such.
Converting electric to manual flaps isn't as easy as changing a lever to a handle. There are dimensional differences in the torque tube that would effect flap travel. The angle & lengths of the 3 levers are different between the 2 setups, so, unless you have some parts out of another manual 6 to install in your plane, you will need to relocate & weld all 3 levers (lengthen the outboard levers to 7.5" & fabricate a new handle lever) on your old torque tube. The manual torque tube will also have to be repositioned from behind of the F605 bulkheads to in front of them. Dimensions are in the FULL version of the RV-6/A plans.
Yes it was fun having the ability to slam instant flap in when needed, but it is so much nicer to be able to feed flap & coordinate trim at the same time for smooth transitions.
trimming for real
Converting electric to manual flaps isn't as easy as changing a lever to a handle. There are dimensional differences in the torque tube that would effect flap travel. The angle & lengths of the 3 levers are different between the 2 setups, so, unless you have some parts out of another manual 6 to install in your plane, you will need to relocate & weld all 3 levers (lengthen the outboard levers to 7.5" & fabricate a new handle lever) on your old torque tube. The manual torque tube will also have to be repositioned from behind of the F605 bulkheads to in front of them. Dimensions are in the FULL version of the RV-6/A plans.
Yes it was fun having the ability to slam instant flap in when needed, but it is so much nicer to be able to feed flap & coordinate trim at the same time for smooth transitions.
trimming for real
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At the time I completed my RV-6 (1991), electric flaps were not yet an option. Sold the -6, bought a -7 kit and really wanted manual flaps which was not available on the -7. My son and I both preferred manual flaps so we decided to delete the electric flaps and install an RV-6 manual flap system. Installation on a new build is considerably easier, but a retrofit is not that difficult project either.
First off, if you can source an RV-6 flap weldment, and associated parts you are halfway there. The 2 major differences you are dealing with is: The -7 has a lowered cockpit floor, and the flap weldment protudes through the rear spar bulkhead instead of mounting on the aft side. You will need to fabricate a raised mount for the base, and mount the weldment per RV-6 plans. I shortened the stock handle slightly.
First off, if you can source an RV-6 flap weldment, and associated parts you are halfway there. The 2 major differences you are dealing with is: The -7 has a lowered cockpit floor, and the flap weldment protudes through the rear spar bulkhead instead of mounting on the aft side. You will need to fabricate a raised mount for the base, and mount the weldment per RV-6 plans. I shortened the stock handle slightly.
SingleTrax
Member
Please!
SingleTrax
Member
Inop
