Conduit Questions

[kirkbauer]

I'm starting on my fuselage and there are a lot of references in the community wiki to conduit for wiring:

SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS - RV10 Community Wiki

rv10.org

Where do I find the "Van's conduit" mentioned in the wiki? I found this:

DUCT NT5/8-50

Corrugated Tube for Installing in Wing for Wiring Conduit

store.vansaircraft.com

But it says OD is 0.81" where the wiki says to enlarge the holes from 0.75" to 0.77". So it's not clear that this conduit would fit even after enlarging. Is this the conduit I should be using?

 

[Carl Froehlich]

For wing, assuming you have nothing weird going on, I found the plastic cold water pipe from Lowes to fit well in the existing 5/8” rib holes. This ~1/2” ID tubing is very light and tough. It has enough room for a coax, right wing autopilot roll servo, landing/NAV/Strobe line (assuming LED lights), OAT probe wires and such. On the left wing also need to run 1/4” pitot and AOA tubes and heavier Pitot heat wires between the bell crank area and the wing root. For this run I used the standard Van’s black conduit after enlarging the associated wing rib holes from 5/8” to 3/4”. The 3/4” hole makes a tigght fit but with some effort you can make this short run. The run from the bell crank area to the wing tip on the left wing is the same 1/2’ id plastic pipe.

For the fuselage I ran six of the Van’s conduit, three down each side (between the side panels and inside fuse skin). I use 4.5 of them, so have a full spare if needed in the future. Van’s instructions are mute on how to run tail cone wiring other than a small, single run on each side designed mainly for the #2 wire from the battery to firewall. Current RV-10s now have ADAHRS mounting (including wire/Pitot/AOA and static tubes), autopilot, remote ADS-b and other stuff like XPDR, ELT, Nav/strobe and trim wires servo, you will need more wire runs.


Carl

 

[kirkbauer]

So when you say "Van's Conduit" you mean this, correct?

DUCT NT5/8-50

Corrugated Tube for Installing in Wing for Wiring Conduit

store.vansaircraft.com

Did it fit in the 3/4" holes that were already there?

 

[Carl Froehlich]

So when you say "Van's Conduit" you mean this, correct?

DUCT NT5/8-50

Corrugated Tube for Installing in Wing for Wiring Conduit

store.vansaircraft.com

Did it fit in the 3/4" holes that were already there?

Correct. It is a tight fit in the existing holes. For the sides I used grommet in the rib lighting holes to run the conduit. I think this was the size: https://www.steinair.com/product/rubber-grommet-78/

Carl

 

[Papa]

I ordered the identical conduit from Home Depot for about half the price. Had it delivered 2 days later. I can probably dig up the link if you need it.

 

[kirkbauer]

I ordered the identical conduit from Home Depot for about half the price. Had it delivered 2 days later. I can probably dig up the link if you need it.

That would be awesome if you could!

 

[wirejock]

It's a bit of a struggle but it does go through. The valleys in the corrugated conduit lock it into position.
Once you install it, apply a dab of proseal at each hole. It keeps the conduit from vibrating and wearing through.

 

[Papa]

That would be awesome if you could!

3/4 in. Dia. x 100 ft. Black Flexible Corrugated Polyethylene Non Split Tubing and Convoluted Wire Loom

 

[Mikeyb]

3/4 in. Dia. x 100 ft. Black Flexible Corrugated Polyethylene Non Split Tubing and Convoluted Wire Loom

The Vans conduit is Nylon not Polyethylene. Nylon is stronger and has a higher temperature rating.

 

[Papa]

The Vans conduit is Nylon not Polyethylene. Nylon is stronger and has a higher temperature rating.

For running fixed wire conduit, that’s pretty much irrelevant. The polyethylene has more than sufficient temperature ratings (Temperature Heat Resistant -40F to 257F | Plastic Cover for Electrical Wires & Cables) and is plenty strong to support wire bundles…that’s what it’s made for. If we’re talking about holding up in an actual fire situation, neither polyethylene nor nylon will do that.

 

[kirkbauer]

Any idea how much conduit I'll need for my RV-10? I drilled some extra 3/4" holes in the F-01004C-R-1 and F-01004C-L-1 components, for a total of 4 holes each. As I understand it that's probably more than enough, but I can pre-run 8 runs of conduit so that I have options for future expansion. How long is each run?

I was also thinking about putting some conduit up around the windshield to run wires to the overhead console, although I'm not sure if 3/4" is the right size for that.

 

[Carl Froehlich]

I was also thinking about putting some conduit up around the windshield to run wires to the overhead console, although I'm not sure if 3/4" is the right size for that.

Not a fan of overhead console in the RV-10, but if you do consider running the (hopefully) very few wires up inside the center forward center support tube to the console. The tube will handle a couple of four #22 conductor shielded wires - which should be more than enough for lights and such.

Carl

 

[kirkbauer]

Not a fan of overhead console in the RV-10, but if you do consider running the (hopefully) very few wires up inside the center forward center support tube to the console. The tube will handle a couple of four #22 conductor shielded wires - which should be more than enough for lights and such.

Carl

I'm curious why you don't like the overhead console -- I have the Aerosport one in my current RV-10 and was planning on putting the same one in my future RV-10. Primarily I want it for the overhead air vents.

 

[Carl Froehlich]

I'm curious why you don't like the overhead console -- I have the Aerosport one in my current RV-10 and was planning on putting the same one in my future RV-10. Primarily I want it for the overhead air vents.

Thread drift - but since you asked. On the first RV-10 build I formed an overhead out of fiberglass. During the trial fit I decided that it was not worth the effort and pulled it. I did cobble together two LED adjusteable lights at the end of the center support tube. On a dimmer they did all that I needed for overhead lights.

I found the standard RV-10 vents to be more than adequate for taxi on a hot day. If you are doing Air Conditioning then never mind...

Carl