Completing the cowl without having a prop yet

[TASEsq]

I am soon to get my engine home, which means I can start work on the cowl.

However the -14 plans show the prop installed in chapter 44 before the cowl in chapter 45.

Can I use some spacers for this purpose like I have seen mentioned in the -7 threads? (I sadly don’t have the cash for a prop at the moment given the massive outlay the engine has represented).

Has anyone used the Hartzell 3D printed hub models for this purpose instead of spacers? Made by the very knowledgeable @TParker ?

Hartzell Hub and Blade Proxies

In an effort to make things easier where I can, I've developed a set of 3D printed files that can be used to make proxies for Hartzell hubs and blades. I think this would allow the actual bulkhead to be mocked up to the cowling and also make spinner cutouts easier. I've got hubs for the most...

vansairforce.net

 

[Bavafa]

I am soon to get my engine home, which means I can start work on the cowl.

However the -14 plans show the prop installed in chapter 44 before the cowl in chapter 45.

Can I use some spacers for this purpose like I have seen mentioned in the -7 threads? (I sadly don’t have the cash for a prop at the moment given the massive outlay the engine has represented).

Has anyone used the Hartzell 3D printed hub models for this purpose instead of spacers? Made by the very knowledgeable @TParker ?

Hartzell Hub and Blade Proxies

In an effort to make things easier where I can, I've developed a set of 3D printed files that can be used to make proxies for Hartzell hubs and blades. I think this would allow the actual bulkhead to be mocked up to the cowling and also make spinner cutouts easier. I've got hubs for the most...

vansairforce.net

It depends on how good of fit you are aiming for. It will be taking some chances that you might regret if the spacer is not perfectly as your prop + spinner backplate.

 

[Ironflight]

Search for “EZ-Cowl” and you’ll see what a lot of us have been doing - seeing as you’re located halfway around the world from where most of these tools are located, you might get some ideas of how to build one yourself….

 

[wirejock]

Search for “EZ-Cowl” and you’ll see what a lot of us have been doing - seeing as you’re located halfway around the world from where most of these tools are located, you might get some ideas of how to build one yourself….

+1
If you know the exact prop you plan to use, down load the elevation drawing. It will have gap dimensions. That's all you need. The inventor, David Howe and I wrote an article for Kitplanes on the subject. Actually three articles. It's easy to fab one yourself. If the articles are gone from archives, send me a PM with an e-mail address. I can send a pdf of the article.

 

[Richard Connell]

Hi Trent
I have an unserviceable C2YR-1BFP hub which I acquired to do exactly what you propose about 20y ago on my 7.
Has been sitting on the shelf since.
You are welcome to it. Maybe Glenn can cart it next time you guys catch up.

 

[Mark Dickens]

The key to using Trevor's files is knowing the height of the spacers between the prop hub and the rear spinner bulkhead. If you know that, you can 3D print the spacers and use the 3D files provided by Trevor. FYI, if you are using the C2YR-1BFP/F7497-2 prop, I measured the spacer at 7/16"...I presume you've read the PDF at https://owncloud.hartzellprop.com/index.php/s/woWO3RNaXnnefnO#pdfviewer

 

[HFS]

I am soon to get my engine home, which means I can start work on the cowl.

However the -14 plans show the prop installed in chapter 44 before the cowl in chapter 45.

Can I use some spacers for this purpose like I have seen mentioned in the -7 threads? (I sadly don’t have the cash for a prop at the moment given the massive outlay the engine has represented).

Has anyone used the Hartzell 3D printed hub models for this purpose instead of spacers? Made by the very knowledgeable @TParker ?

Hartzell Hub and Blade Proxies

In an effort to make things easier where I can, I've developed a set of 3D printed files that can be used to make proxies for Hartzell hubs and blades. I think this would allow the actual bulkhead to be mocked up to the cowling and also make spinner cutouts easier. I've got hubs for the most...

vansairforce.net

Check your DM’s …

HFS

 

[TASEsq]

Hi Trent
I have an unserviceable C2YR-1BFP hub which I acquired to do exactly what you propose about 20y ago on my 7.
Has been sitting on the shelf since.
You are welcome to it. Maybe Glenn can cart it next time you guys catch up.

That’s great Richard - will touch base next time we’re going to cross paths.

 

[TParker]

The key to using Trevor's files is knowing the height of the spacers between the prop hub and the rear spinner bulkhead.

The spacers used are detailed in Manual 159 for each published installation, though it takes a little decoding/digging. Example:

• The most popular Van's installation is on IDS-2604, currently page 9 of the "Vs", page 1627 of the entire PDF
• The propellers have a description of HubSystem/Blade/SpinnerKit, so HC-C2YR-1BFPX/F7497X/SM8
  • SM8 indicates it uses a -8 kit, or A-2476-8 spinner mounting kit
  • The A-2476-8 kit is listed on that installation entry as well
    • Some installations have multiple kits listed, as they go with different spinners, there should be a note to indicate what is what
• The contents of each kit is listed towards the end of the manual, in a section called Spinner Mounting Kits
  • Kits include spacers and washers, with part numbers
  • In this example, A-2246-4 spacers and B-3834-0663 washers
• The length of the spacers and the washer thicknesses are noted by part number in a table
  • Currently on page 4 and 5 of the spinner mounting kit section, or page 1935 in the PDF
  • A-2246-4 spacers are 0.250" thick, the B-3834-0663 washers are 0.063" thick

 

[TASEsq]

The spacers used are detailed in Manual 159 for each published installation, though it takes a little decoding/digging. Example:

• The most popular Van's installation is on IDS-2604, currently page 9 of the "Vs", page 1627 of the entire PDF
• The propellers have a description of HubSystem/Blade/SpinnerKit, so HC-C2YR-1BFPX/F7497X/SM8
  • SM8 indicates it uses a -8 kit, or A-2476-8 spinner mounting kit
  • The A-2476-8 kit is listed on that installation entry as well
    • Some installations have multiple kits listed, as they go with different spinners, there should be a note to indicate what is what
• The contents of each kit is listed towards the end of the manual, in a section called Spinner Mounting Kits
  • Kits include spacers and washers, with part numbers
  • In this example, A-2246-4 spacers and B-3834-0663 washers
• The length of the spacers and the washer thicknesses are noted by part number in a table
  • Currently on page 4 and 5 of the spinner mounting kit section, or page 1935 in the PDF
  • A-2246-4 spacers are 0.250" thick, the B-3834-0663 washers are 0.063" thick

Hartzell definitely loves a puzzling part number!

Thanks for the info - I will have a read of that reference.

I recall seeing the “SM8” on a prop quote from superior but no-one was sure what it meant!!

 

[sf3543]

I am soon to get my engine home, which means I can start work on the cowl.

However the -14 plans show the prop installed in chapter 44 before the cowl in chapter 45.

Can I use some spacers for this purpose like I have seen mentioned in the -7 threads? (I sadly don’t have the cash for a prop at the moment given the massive outlay the engine has represented).

Has anyone used the Hartzell 3D printed hub models for this purpose instead of spacers? Made by the very knowledgeable @TParker ?

Hartzell Hub and Blade Proxies

In an effort to make things easier where I can, I've developed a set of 3D printed files that can be used to make proxies for Hartzell hubs and blades. I think this would allow the actual bulkhead to be mocked up to the cowling and also make spinner cutouts easier. I've got hubs for the most...

vansairforce.net

The easiest and cheapest way to do this is to make your own using several easily obtained parts.
You will need a piece of plywood, preferably about 3/4” thick as big as the spinner diameter.
Hardware store bolts that fit the flange threads for the prop
Some 3/4” copper tubing.
Cut the plywood to the diameter of your spinner and center the bolt holes to fit your engine.
Install the starter ring on the prop flange. This is important!
Using the prop mounting distance from the manufacturer. Let’s use 1.6”for example, then cut three or four spacers out of the tubing. The length should be the distance provided, we are using 1.6” for example, minus the space you want between the spinner and cowling. I use 3/8”.
Mount the plywood to the engine using the spacers and bolts.
Build the cowl right up against the plywood for a correct fit.
Hope this helps someone.

 

[Carl Froehlich]

Hi Trent
I have an unserviceable C2YR-1BFP hub which I acquired to do exactly what you propose about 20y ago on my 7.
Has been sitting on the shelf since.
You are welcome to it. Maybe Glenn can cart it next time you guys catch up.

+1 on using an old hub that matches your prop.
Carl