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Complete list of tools / equipment?

K

kamikaze

Well Known Member
Hi all,

First post for me! (Hopefully not the last).

Hoping to some day build a -9A (Starting next summer if all goes well).

For now, lots of reading and planning, and one of the first things I need to do is figure out what I'll need to accomplish this task.

Workshop? Double garage will do!

Next: Tools and equipment.

I plan on buying a tool kit. I've seen what's available, I suspect I'll go with the Cleveland one (Though I'd like feedback on ATS, not seeing much ...?).

Here in is the rub for me: These tool kits are it would appear rather incomplete. They're sheet metal tool kits only it would seem ... From my reading, there will be some wood working required (building jigs and support structures, maybe workshop tables, etc.), mechanical work (plumbing, engine, FFW type things), electrics/electronics maybe (For the panel, and a few other things), and maybe more.

So, does anyone have a more exhaustive list of what is REALLY needed to build the plane, beginning to end? If not, maybe we can build one here.

Some early thoughts:

Wood working: saws, hammers, nails, etc. Can anyone detail?

Mechanic: Might be too long to list, but planetools has kits for inspiration:

http://store-planetools.com/toolkits-mechanic.aspx

That being said, from having worked on my piper, I've discovered the list of basic tools required is not as long as one might expect ... there's a limited set of different screws and socket sizes used for example, so getting the 100+ socket kit might be over kill?

Band saw for cutting some metal pieces?

How do people mount their engine? I guess you need some device to lift it into place? Any other "lifting device" needed?

Chemical products: ProSeal, Primer, other metal treatment? Cleaning products?

Safety: Goggles, gloves, mask, anything else?

Do people use rollings islands or wheeled tool chests/trays? I've found these very useful when working on the FFW on my Piper ... not sure they're applicable when working on a airframe? (Mayb elater when doing mechanical work?)

Special lighting: Flash lights, other small lights to get into small areas?

Avionics/electrics: Crimpers, wire cutters, multi-meter, heat gun, tie wraps, heat shrink tubing, connectors of some sort ... anything else?

Vise, bench grinder?

Anyways, all this to say I think I'm going to take the ~2500$ for a tool kit and double it to 5000 for all of the above, and everything I haven't thought of yet ... sound reasonable? (Presuming new kit of course, I'm sure I could save money if I find used items ...).

Thanks!
 
Exhaustive list

You probably will never find a complete list. You will get as many opinions as there are a.... irports. Yeah, airports.

One guy's exhaustive list is the bare minimum. The tool fetish guy's exhaustive list is everything under the sun. Create your list wherever you see fit.

For example, I have four drills. Two with two different size drill bits, and two with two countersink bits set for different rivets. Overkill? Not for me. They are on my exhaustive list.

Doubling your tool budget is a good place to start. If you are the type of person who enjoys tools, you'll go past that. The good thing is that all the tools aren't necessary to have right away. As you progress through your kit and research and contemplate the next step in your build you will come across nice to have tools you can purchase just before you get to that step.

Besides, is any tool collection really complete?
 
xavierm said:
Besides, is any tool collection really complete?
Click to expand...

Wise words.

I started with an Isham (planetools.com) kit, because I definitely wanted a pneumatic squeezer and the DRDT2 dimpler, which come in his kits. However, I have added to my tool collection quite a bit since starting my build, and probably will continue even after it's complete, with tools required for maintenance. Guessing at initial tool budget is a valuable exercise. Trying to estimate total, all-inclusive tool budget is an impossible (and pointless) exercise.
 
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Tools

ppilotmike said:
Wise words.

I started with an Isham (planetools.com) kit, because I definitely wanted a pneumatic squeezer and the DRDT2 dimpler, which come in his kits. However, I have added to my tool collection quite a bit since starting my build, and probably will continue even after it's complete, with tools required for maintenance. Guessing at initial tool budget is a valuable exercise. Trying to estimate total, all-inclusive tool budget is an impossible (and pointless) exercise.
Click to expand...

Welcome.
I agree. Buy a basic kit. Take a class or find a local mentor. Take some of the tools you need to know how to work to the class/mentor. Once you get a feel, your work style will dictate the "must have" tools you add. Buy the two Vans kits and spend some time learning.
Build a couple EAA work benches. Then go buy a Souix 3X gun, pneumatic squeezer and a titanium bucking bar! :D
 
Understood, OK, so maybe I was going a little too deep into it :p

Still, the tool kits are themselves a bare minimum. Don't think I can install an engine with what Cleveland (or anyone else) puts in their RV tool kit!

I was just trying to get a feel for what else is needed ... I think I've touched on the main categories already, but do let me know if I missed anything obvious.

I'd rather over-budget than under budget on tools, equipment, etc. If I were to blindly listen to Van's site, I'd think I'd be OK with 2K$ worth of tools, and well, that would be pretty far from the truth ...
 
The tools will cost the same in the end whether you buy as you go or if you buy all at once. There is a little discount at Cleaveland when you buy over a certain amount (don't remember) but it isn't a ton.

I do try to figure what I need a little in advance because I hate the shipping, which is the main extra expense of piecemeal purchasing. On the other hand, for the $5-$10 to get something at my front door it might cost me $300 to get it myself. Heck, a drive across town costs $5 now.
 
Yeah, I'm the same way ... I don't want to end up buying one thing at a time, waiting, and paying lots of small shipping charges ... I'd rather try to do bulk purchases.

For many tools, I will be able to source them locally anyways ... but even then, I'd like an idea of what to buy BEFORE I buy it, I don't like taking 5 drives a day to the local hardware store either, because oh ****, I got the 1/2" socket, but now I need a 7/16th!
 
Thanks, I needed a good laugh!

I've been flying for seven years and I'm still buying tools and there is a big list of tools I want.

Just remember, at some point in your build you will catch yourself saying, "I don't have the correct tool but I can make (fill in the blank) work." Stop right there and order the proper tool. If you don't, you will find yourself ordering a replacement part, the correct tool, and spend hours making a replacement part.
 
I think you are on the right track. Lists of tools that I have seen assume one already has a (at least) a basic mechanics tool set. I would recommend at least decent quality level for these general purpose type tools. In the long run its money well spent, they will serve you well with less frustration. Maybe $2,000 is a good starting point for that portion of your tool kit.
 
Tools

If it's of any value, send me an e-mail. I will send you my Excel sheet. It has every tool in my shop.
 
The various tool kits provide all of the necessary airplane building specialty stuff. You are not going to find riveting tools at most tool stores. You'll end up buying lots of additional tools as you build. I bought lots of stuff at Harbor Freight, Home Depot, etc. I also bought many supplies locally at an industrial supply company. It is just part of the fun in building. Don't try to think you can buy everything up front at one time. Don't be in too much of a hurry to finish and enjoy the process. Now that I'm flying, I miss the building.
 
I've bought tools from all the big suppliers (Cleaveland, Avery, ATS), and have had great experiences with all of them. My main tool kit came from ATS, with the 3X gun…quality stuff here.

I'm echoing some earlier posts, but some fantastic "extras" for the empennage and elsewhere are the Avery pop-rivet dimplers (soooo nice to get in tight spots), Vise-Grip dimplers (ditto), a small tungsten bucking bar, and pneumatic squeezer (heaven for a row of skin-to-rib rivets on an outside rib, and for many repetitive dimpling operations).

I'd get both practice kits. I bought only the tool box and "practiced" a little too much on my horizontal stab, resulting in a few more dings than optimal!!

Good luck, and work at a pace where you're really enjoying the process. I'm still trying to find the balance of making good headway and having a somewhat normal life!!
 
Ooops

Greg Arehart said:
I wouldn't get one of these, as it would bounce too much being lightweight.:D I think the OP meant a tungsten bar.
Click to expand...

Doh!
Tungsten. Gotta work on that.
I get them mixed up all the time. I'm glad the 12mm pin in my tibia from knee to ankle is titanium!
 
I use a Dremel all the time. The cut-off disk, and all the sanding drum sizes and grades you can find, are the things I use with it.

A good shop vac is mandatory.

I use a 6.5 tpi wood blade on my 3/4 hp band saw. Cuts any thickness of aluminum like butter. Kind of a rough cut, but I've got a 12" sanding disk to smooth it out - 120 grit on that. Spend some time getting the bandsaw adjusted correctly.

A Starrett C305 scale in 6" and 24" lengths is very handy. Get a calculator too; Van's gives dimensions in fractions and converting to decimal saves a lot of time.

A set of numbered, fractional and letter drills plus a handful of #40 shop bits and a few 12" #40 bits, and perhaps even a decent 90 degree angle drill with those screw-in bits in various lengths.

Get a couple magnifying glasses. One should be 10x and the other, larger, perhaps 3x. I find that regular reading glasses are handy but a pair of +4.00 helps sometimes too.

Dave
 
So I'll dogpile on if you don't mind. I got a tool kit with my recent purchase with multiple upgrades. I figure I cam going to need a bench grinder for sure. I do not have a drill press or band saw; will I need them?
 
Needed tools

andrewtac said:
So I'll dogpile on if you don't mind. I got a tool kit with my recent purchase with multiple upgrades. I figure I cam going to need a bench grinder for sure. I do not have a drill press or band saw; will I need them?
Click to expand...

Bench grinder with 1" scotch brite wheel is one of the most used bench tools in my shop.
As to needing a drill press or band saw...wait till you reach that point in your build and make that decision. It's subjective. Many have built without. I wouldn't. I use them a lot.
 
wirejock said:
Bench grinder with 1" scotch brite wheel is one of the most used bench tools in my shop.
As to needing a drill press or band saw...wait till you reach that point in your build and make that decision. It's subjective. Many have built without. I wouldn't. I use them a lot.
Click to expand...

I have the scotch brite wheels, just need the grinder. I'll probably keep my eye out for a press and band saw since it sounds like they will get well used; both are something I've wanted but never had a good enough excuse to own.
 
Bench tools

andrewtac said:
I have the scotch brite wheels, just need the grinder. I'll probably keep my eye out for a press and band saw since it sounds like they will get well used; both are something I've wanted but never had a good enough excuse to own.
Click to expand...

Some HF stuff is ok. Personally I don't care cor their bench grinder. My Ryobi is pretty smooth. I do have an HF drill press. It's ok. My band saw is HF as well and it's ok. Just make sure you can find band saw blades easy.
 
Suggestions like tungsten bar, vise grip and pop dimplers are must-haves if you ask me. The DRDT-2 and my cheap bandsaw you would also have to pry from my cold dead hands. A few others that come to mind...

Reamers for AN4 and AN5 bolts
Aircraft tube flare tool
12" #30 and #40 drills (included in some kits)
Narrow countersink cage
90 degree drill extension/adapter
Torque wrench and crowsfoot extensions
Swivel mushroom rivet set with the rubber boot
Offset and angled rivet sets
Very narrow bucking bar
#6 and #8 screw dimple dies
Dial or digital calipers
Digital level
Tap and die set
Rulers
Files, small and large

Also, there are some tools that I have or would like to have 2 of to speed things up:

Hand squeezer: keep one with the no-hole yoke, and another with a regular yoke. I'm tired of swapping yokes all the time

Air Drills: Keep one with a #30 or #40 bit chucked, use another for other various sizes

I may think of more...

Chris
 
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Regarding the grinder, what are the pros and cons vs. something portable, like putting it on the end of a drill, or a dremel-type tool?

Seems I'd rather move a small tool around a big piece of metal instead of vice-versa?

As for the band saw ... I understand you have to fabricate some pieces that mean cutting chunks of aluminium into smaller parts (on the 9's at least)... how else does one do this without a bad saw?
 
kamikaze said:
Regarding the grinder, what are the pros and cons vs. something portable, like putting it on the end of a drill, or a dremel-type tool?

Seems I'd rather move a small tool around a big piece of metal instead of vice-versa?

As for the band saw ... I understand you have to fabricate some pieces that mean cutting chunks of aluminium into smaller parts (on the 9's at least)... how else does one do this without a bad saw?
Click to expand...

I use the scotchbrite wheel on a HF bench grinder with a regular grinding wheel on the other side for the occasional steel part. Don't use that on aluminum though!

I also use a knockoff HF dremel tool with a sanding drum or cutoff wheel on a number of occasions. I keep plenty of extras of both on hand.

The first task on the 9 is to fabricate two mounting brackets for the HS out of thick aluminum angle. I would not want to do this without the bandsaw. A hacksaw would work, but why torture yourself? I use my bandsaw almost every day. Many small fab jobs out of angle are ten times easier with it.
 
andrewtac said:
I have the scotch brite wheels, just need the grinder. I'll probably keep my eye out for a press and band saw since it sounds like they will get well used; both are something I've wanted but never had a good enough excuse to own.
Click to expand...

I just bought the open ended buffer from Harbor freight for the scotchbrite wheels. It has been turned on thousands of times over the years. Get a 25% off the sale price if you watch.

Bandsaw. Many will want this for other purposes, but I was laid off when purchasing, so went low bucks, a 9" lightweight. I got a bent box sale one for $45 at Lowes. (Normally $110) The only thing is that you will need to make a vacuum tunnel under the plate, along the blade to catch the aluminum chips before getting inside the unit. They get under the blade and embed in the urethane tire, increasing tension on the blade. Once that was done. That has not happened again. Some want the finest tool for this job, but my lightweight has been superb. I even us this to rip aluminum strips for various uses. No distortion like snips. Wood and aluminum only, no steel.

Drill Press. Get one with a wide speed range, and a sturdy table. I have a floor model, but honestly it could be bench and I would not know. Cast iron is stiffer than aluminum. Get a good square jawed vise too. It is necessary IMO.

Sanding - you did not mention this. I got a 1 inch vertical belt sander with a side disk from Grizzley (not crazy about this brand and piece). The sanding belt gets used a lot. The disk gets used to square up long cuts on the bandsaw. I might look at a wider belt if I were to do it again. I would not do without this type of tool, though.

Example: You can mark and cut the tapers on the rudder stiffeners with the bandsaw then sand to precision, and scotchbrite to a proper finish. No distortion, and fast. Day one.

Happy building.
 
Some random thoughts:
I agree, bandsaws are indispensable. How else would you cut all those aileron and fuel tank stiffeners down to size, or do the angle fabrication pieces? I have a Craftsman two-wheel model (10"?) that I picked up on sale, and am actually really impressed with it. I suggest a finer-toothed blade (14-16 tpi) for better cuts.

Get a good vixen file; it makes deburring sheet edges, angle parts, etc. much faster.

Swivel flush sets are superior to non-swivel.

Make sure all your drills have keyless chucks. And stay away from cordless drills; the batteries will eventually never be able to hold a charge. Get a good powerful variable-speed corded one, and an air drill.

The Harbor Freight HVLP spray guns are great for shooting primer.

Personally, I wouldn't bother with a pneumatic squeezer. A hand squeezer gives you good forearm muscles, and I've found I tend to get better rivets using the gun and bucking bar anyway.

Contrary to some here, you don't need to buy the very best and greatest of every tool. Having a 60-gallon 240V air compressor with hard lines everywhere is nice, but not necessary by any means. I bought a 200psi compressor at Lowes for $200; it's loud but it does the job, and I put the money saved towards the next kit.

Invest in good eye protection and good hearing protection. And a good respirator mask for painting and prepping your tanks.

kamikaze said:
Wood working: saws, hammers, nails, etc. Can anyone detail?
Click to expand...

Get a decent corded circular saw (I like the worm drive one my wife gave me years ago), a good tape measure, large and small levels, and a combination square. Get some string and find a plumb bob or two. Use the cordless drill you purchased for driving screws. Oh, and some bigger C-clamps.

so getting the 100+ socket kit might be over kill?
Click to expand...

You'll find enough other non-airplane uses for a good socket set that it's worth getting one. The Lowes/Home Depot house brands seem to be pretty good these days. Don't go HF on this one.

Do people use rollings islands or wheeled tool chests/trays? I've found these very useful when working on the FFW on my Piper ... not sure they're applicable when working on a airframe? (Mayb elater when doing mechanical work?)
Click to expand...

My workshop is really small (one-car garage), so I don't have the room for a rolling toolbox. I use pegboard and wall shelves for tool storage. My bandsaw, bench grinder, drill press, and mini bending brake are mounted on a small rolling bench so I can move it out of the way.

Special lighting: Flash lights, other small lights to get into small areas?
Click to expand...

Put good shop lighting in (fluorescent fixtures with daylight tubes), get a couple flashlights, and buy a cheap head-mounted light. Get a large and a small inspection mirror, too.

Vise, bench grinder?
Click to expand...

Get both. The vise is really nice for solo riveting small parts. Bench grinder plus scotchbrite wheel is indispensable.
 
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Andy Snips

rmartingt said:
<SNIP>I agree, bandsaws are indispensable. How else would you cut all those aileron and fuel tank stiffeners down to size, or do the angle fabrication? pieces<SNIP>
Click to expand...

An Andy Snip can do a lot of cuts easier and faster than a bandsaw, although I do use a bandsaw frequently but not exclusively. I bought my Andy Snip at Airventure from Avery Tools. For the photo, I refer you to Amazon...
 
Tools

I recommend you get and rview the preview plans - or if you have already decided on which model you will build, get the real plans, review them and visualize what may be needed to complete the numerous tasks. for example, fiberglass and plexiglass work becomes easier if you have specialized tools.

I never hesitated to purchase specialty tools if I thought there was an advantage. In addition to the metal working tool kit:

Grinder
Dremel Tool (I'd also look at the new Dremel products)
Pneumatic Squeezer
Electronic Level
Nut Drivers
Various spring loaded locking pliers
Small rechargeable electric screwdriver
Drill Press
Good quality crimper
D-sub crimper
Molex crimper
Tube Bender
Good quality stripper
Good quality wire cutters
Heat gun
Plastic clamps
Screw extractor
Micro screwdriver kit
Extra spring-loaded punch
Probably others I can't think of

I purchased a Harbor Freight crane to hang the engine, but borrowing (mine is wondering around various hangers at the airport) or rental are options.

You will find that fellow builders are extremely generous. If you are part of a builder's community, borrowing is a very attractive option.

I bought quality tools - except where I knew use would be one time, then looked a Harbor Freight. No regrets.
 
I got a 10" craftsman bandsaw, but it only gets used rarely. If it's thin, snips are quicker/cleaner, and if it's thick, a non-ferrous blade in my miter saw cuts quickly and very clean. If I had a more expensive (well, better, anyway) band saw it might get used more, but I sometimes wish I had picked up a small miter saw that could be left set up all the time (my current one only comes out when I need it).

==dave==
 
A 25 watt or better, a 40 watt soldering iron is good for removing strips of the blue vinyl.

I regard a drill press and bandsaw as both essential. But I haven't found a need yet for a grinder and don't have one. I do sometimes use Scotchbrite drums on an air die grinder, but not often.

A Vixen file, as long and as fine-toothed as you can find, is an every-day tool here.

I have three air drills: one always has a #40 bit, one always has a #30 and one is available for anything else that's needed. They are physically different so I can tell them apart. I much prefer my Sioux air drill to the one that's a different brand, the third is a different model Sioux, borrowed. Having three saves gobs of time.

The pneumatic squeezer is a daily tool. I've got a borrowed hand squeezer that I never use. You'll need a good set of dimple dies and sets.

Dave
 
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