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Click bond nut plates
- Thread starter benjam
- Start date
Take a look at the ClickBond product catalog, nutplate section - there are a number fo choices:
https://www.clickbond.com/Uploads/SupportPDF/637570244753289397.pdf
I generally use a CB6009 for #8 nutplates - this gives a replaceable insert in case you strip the threads, and is also slightly floating to cover minor mis-alignments.
For #6 screws, I use the folded over style because that’s the only one they have for #6’s - its a CB6014.
For material, I usually get “CR” - seems to be their standard steel. So the #8’s I use are CB6009 CR 08 CRS 1
The catalog gives a good breakdown of the overall part numbers.
https://www.clickbond.com/Uploads/SupportPDF/637570244753289397.pdf
I generally use a CB6009 for #8 nutplates - this gives a replaceable insert in case you strip the threads, and is also slightly floating to cover minor mis-alignments.
For #6 screws, I use the folded over style because that’s the only one they have for #6’s - its a CB6014.
For material, I usually get “CR” - seems to be their standard steel. So the #8’s I use are CB6009 CR 08 CRS 1
The catalog gives a good breakdown of the overall part numbers.
Dean Pichon
Well Known Member
Click-Bond products are great. There is an almost infinite variety of hardware options. The problem is the few stocking distributors of these products have only a very limited selection. My advice would be to find 2 or 3 acceptable options and hunt around. My experience has been that the Flight Shop (www.theflightshop.com) has the best selection though by no means great.
Yup - the Flightshop is actually their only “official” retailer to “civilian” GA types like us. ACS actually used to buy their stock from Flightshop. Why the Flightshop? They are located at Brigham City airport, where the ClickBond owners take their fleet of Aerostars to be serviced, and they happened to know the folks at Flightshop……
Not as good as riveted. The major aircraft manufacturer I worked for didn't allow using them on production aircraft for that reason.
Good enough that I know for a fact that some of the CB threaded studs are orbiting other planets.
Back here on Earth...I used some of the nutplates in a few places where riveting a nutplate in place would have been generally a pain, and they've held just fine for a decade. Remember, surface prep and following the process spec is *key*. If you do a sloppy job of prep, or don't follow the instructions, well...
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Thanks for those replies. Pretty cool to know they're "out of this world" - that will be useful for when I upgrade my IO-360 to a rocket motor. 
Like Plehrke I prefer the knowledge things are mechanically fixed and can't move however sometimes it can make life easier if you trust technology. I have no doubt cleanliness is paramount when it comes to installation though.
Cheers Lads.
Like Plehrke I prefer the knowledge things are mechanically fixed and can't move however sometimes it can make life easier if you trust technology. I have no doubt cleanliness is paramount when it comes to installation though.
Cheers Lads.
Earth Orbit for sure
I cannot claim extraterrestrial orbit responsibility for any click-bonds. But I'm personally responsible for putting many of them above the Karman line, and some that are still in orbit.
The key to good adhesion of click-bonds to the base material is proper bond preparation and cleaning of the surface.
I cannot claim extraterrestrial orbit responsibility for any click-bonds. But I'm personally responsible for putting many of them above the Karman line, and some that are still in orbit.
The key to good adhesion of click-bonds to the base material is proper bond preparation and cleaning of the surface.
Thanks for this information Paul. What adhesive and slide do you use for installation?
I generally use the Cb200 adhesive, which uses the 8:1 slide (I think - confirm that with their catalog). If you’re only doing a few items, the little packs of adhesive work well. I use enough of it all that I have the gun, slide, and a bag of tips.
I've used JB Weld steel 'slow cure' epoxy with great results. On paper it's 5000 psi epoxy, which is about as good as it gets. The quickset is more like 3000psi and I find it does not set as hard (fingernail test).
Sidenote, we used to epoxy the quickbond studs to polyurethane coatings on the inside of the large diameter pipes and then use a calibrated pump to pull it off to test the coating. The idea was to apply at least 1500 psi force to pass, but then continue to see what failed first - coating or epoxy. The polyurethane was rated at 3000psi.
And the surface prep had to be sandblasting to match a color swatch - gives the correct cleanliness and rough surface for adhesion.
Don
Sidenote, we used to epoxy the quickbond studs to polyurethane coatings on the inside of the large diameter pipes and then use a calibrated pump to pull it off to test the coating. The idea was to apply at least 1500 psi force to pass, but then continue to see what failed first - coating or epoxy. The polyurethane was rated at 3000psi.
And the surface prep had to be sandblasting to match a color swatch - gives the correct cleanliness and rough surface for adhesion.
Don
Thanks Paul!
Another good source for Clickbond products
I’ve used both them and the other vendor noted above.
Aircraft Spruce sells them too but they are not price competitive.
YMMV but electricalhub.com web ordering was easier and shipping was faster for me. No significant price difference.
Also check well known auction website…from time to time Clickbond products appear there at very good prices.
I’ve used both them and the other vendor noted above.
Aircraft Spruce sells them too but they are not price competitive.
YMMV but electricalhub.com web ordering was easier and shipping was faster for me. No significant price difference.
Also check well known auction website…from time to time Clickbond products appear there at very good prices.
