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Changing Battery on an ACK E04 ELT

....Seems strange they would loan you a device rather than say "would you accept a overhauled/loaner unit as a warranty exchange for your unit?" ...

Hopefully that offer comes after he installs this one and they think he?s calm enough after all they?ve put him through. :)
 
Jeff got right back with me...

Jeff was great,

He seemed pleased to be brought back in the loop. I won?t say that the customer service experience has been good...it hasn?t been even remotely acceptable, but he emailed me and promised to make it right when it?s all done.

I agree, especially given that the loaner unit has a different antenna and tray, you?d think they?d just say, ?register it and keep it,? but I am not asking them for an upgrade (this is)...I just want to be able to fly my **** airplane!

Scott
 
ELT 1000

They sent me a brand new ELT 1000. MFG date was 9/24/19. Jeff indicated that they have identified and will be making some corrections to ? some ? ELT 345s, and then they will replace mine. Again.

He was very gracious in his email, I'll report back when we get to the next step.
 
I think (hope) the story is now over

After a few polite back and forth emails with Jeff, as he realized what a journey it has been to get to just replacing a unit so I could fly my airplane, he offered (and I accepted) to have me KEEP the loaner ELT1000, and yesterday I fedexed back their ELT345.

I've still got nothing good to say about the mid-level customer service experience...each time a lower (great) person handed me UP to the Customer Service Manager, progress stopped. Each time Jeff handed me back DOWN to the same Customer Service Manager, progress stopped.

Needless to say, if SHE worked for me, she would be available for employment on the competitive market.

That said, Jeff did what he said he would do, and I've got a legal (and upgraded) ELT in my aircraft. I hope it gives me lots of years of trouble free service!

Scott
 
Thanks for the write up.

Can I please ask - how many cells are there in the ELT? The write up doesn't say, and the photos don't load.

I'd like to order the cells before opening the unit to replace them.

(I'm not in the USA so TSO does not apply. ELT is entirely optional on Permit To Fly aircraft, where I live).
 
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Here are the photos uploaded. 4 cells required as you can hopefully see.
 

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Thank you very much!

I actually opened my ELT up in the meantime and worked out the number.

Annoyingly the hard part is finding these Saft batteries in the UK. The best price I've had so far is £25 + VAT each, plus £115 + VAT 'Dangerous goods' shipping. £258 total. ($329 USD).

https://www.adamsaviation.com/produ...art/170539battery-pack-for-ack-e04-elt-un3090 - the sealed battery pack from ACK is £273 ($347 USD) so I may as well buy that!

It's so annoying when the batteries are $12.50 in the USA.
 
If you bought an ACK E04 ELT when they were new back in 2011 then the time is coming to change the main battery in the ELT. Hopefully this will help you to change yours properly and save you some money as well. These batteries must be changed every 5 years. The battery expiration date is etched into the side of the battery pack.

I'm sure ACK would like you to buy their replacement battery pack but if you didn't disassemble this when you got it, you probably don't know that the cells are standard D Size 3 Volt Lithium Sulfur Dioxide (LiSO2) cells made by Saft, P/N LO26SX , and replacement requires simple disassembly and no soldering.

Aviation outlets charge $153 and up (some want to tack on HAZMAT shipping for another $35) for the replacement pack. You can buy the cells only for $71.80 and $9.95 shipping and in a few minutes be on your way. In fact I bought 3 sets with a couple of local RVators and we split the shipping cost 3 ways.

Step 1 - Order the correct battery cells (might be a good idea to verify your ELT has the same cells I did before ordering). The cheapest place I found was batteries2batteries.com: http://www.battery2batteries.com/saft-lo26sx-battery-3v-lithium-d-cell/

Step 2 - Remove the ELT from the aircraft. Before you do this it might be a good idea to perform a self test, to make sure it is working before doing anything to it. The current manual outlining the self test procedure can be found here: http://www.ackavionics.com/pdf/E-04_REV_1.7_SINGLE_PAGE_REDUCED.pdf

Once that is done, take note of how the unit is anchored and how the cables are secured and particularly how the GPS input connector is secured. You will need to remove the BNC antenna connector and the modular telephone style jack to the RCPI (Remote Control Panel Indicator).

Step 3 - Switch the ELT to "OFF"

Step 4 - Mark your ELT. ACK claims there are features to prevent improper clocking of the battery but I didn't see any on mine so I marked all 3 pieces to be sure. If you did clock things wrong you could install the battery backwards (and ruin your ELT) or clock it in such a way that there is no connection made to the battery - so it will not function. So I marked all 3 components prior to disassembly. I marked them with "TOP" so it would be sure to go back into the tray in the same orientation.
20160326_152731.jpg



This shows the cells being removed. Note that there are no polarity signs!
20160326_152239.jpg



Step 5 - Add polarity signs so you don't install the cells backwards! (note that it's best to do this before removing the cells)
20160326_152702.jpg



Step 6 - Carefully inspect the base of the pack housing and the cap with the battery contacts protruding through to ensure there is no corrosion that would prevent electrical connections between cells or between the battery pack and the transmitter. Then install the new cells:
20160326_153544.jpg



Step 7 - inspect the two O-rings and replace if they are cracked or overly stretched. Use some silicone O-ring grease on the O-rings and carefully install the cap on the battery pack. The springs pushing up on the cells will make this tricky as you have to push down on the cap to get the screws started. Use blue loctite and tighten the screws holding the cap of the battery pack to the base evenly, a couple of turns at a time on each screw. ACK's manual says 3.5-4.0 in-Lbs. Note the sticker for the SAR folks if you ever set one of these off inadvertently:
20160326_153942.jpg



Step 8 - Verify polarity and voltage for the reassembled battery pack. I also checked the old batteries to compare voltage and they were within .01V of each other. ACK's manual has a more in-depth test procedure with a load test using an automotive light bulb which is a good idea as long as you don't run it for very long.
20160326_154548.jpg



Step 9 - Inspect the transmitter PCB (Printed Circuit Board) for corrosion or damage, particularly where the battery electrodes interface with the transmitter PCB. Reinstall the transmitter onto the battery pack using the same screw torque and blue loctite on the screws - again tightening evenly.

Step 10 - Mark the new expiration date on the outside of the pack.
20160326_153234.jpg



Step 11 - Now might be a good time to verify the GPS signal is reaching the ELT in accordance with the procedure in the installation manual, if your installation provides GPS to the ELT. Then put the switch in the "ARM" postion, install the red cap, and reinstall the ELT in the aircraft. Perform a self-test of the unit prior to making a log entry with the new ELT battery expiration date and placing the unit back in service.
20160326_160416.jpg


ACK claims that cell replacement is forbidden by the battery TSO (TSO-C142a) and your ELT will not be airworthy if you do this. But feel free to but check the TSO yourself; I could find no such language: http://tinyurl.com/ze2vb7q

However, this is not to be taken lightly; this HAS to work when called upon, so if you are not 100% confident in your ability to do this job properly, then buy the replacement pack for the extra money and be done with it. I would recommend that at a minimum, this should be done under the supervision of an IA, A&P, or repairman authorized to work on your aircraft.

Note that there are 2 other batteries in the ELT subsystem; one in the RCPI (Remote Control Panel Indicator) and one in the audio alert indicator. The RCPI blinks and the audio alert beeps when performing an ELT self test. These batteries have a 10 year replacement (if lithium), or 5 years (if alkaline). My RCPI shipped from ACK with a lithium, and I installed a lithium in the audio alert indicator since that shipped with no battery from the factory. Thus in 5 more years everything will get replaced. It's a good idea to make a log entry indicating when those are due as well if you don't have it marked somewhere that you can't miss it.
Thank you Noah!
 
So can we legally change our own batt? I took mine apart, found replacements but before I pulled the trigger I was told that it wouldn’t satisfy faa/ insurance companies because the engraved date on the case! How to work around it?
 
So can we legally change our own batt? I took mine apart, found replacements but before I pulled the trigger I was told that it wouldn’t satisfy faa/ insurance companies because the engraved date on the case! How to work around it?
Correct, you can not open the case and replace the cells, legally, even on an experimental aircraft. Whether or not the FAA would ever find out.. I doubt an inspector is going to start taking off panels to examine the battery on the ramp.. but it would likely be discovered in the event of a fatal accident.. or a major accident where it should have activated but didn't.
 
ELT...the most useless equipment on my airplane. I live in the flats with excellent ADS-B coverage, if flying remotely, I will activate my SOS on my watch or carry a PLB...they will know exactly where to find my body
You are entitled to your opinion. As a person who is acquainted with several people who owe their lives to ELT's, well, obviously they hold a different opinion, based on real-life experience.

The bottom line is always the same. Do everything possible to stack the odds of survival in our favor. This includes making sure the ELT is installed and fully serviceable. It's one layer in what should be a multi-layered approach to survival and rescue.
 
If you bought an ACK E04 ELT when they were new back in 2011 then the time is coming to change the main battery in the ELT. Hopefully this will help you to change yours properly and save you some money as well. These batteries must be changed every 5 years. The battery expiration date is etched into the side of the battery pack.

I'm sure ACK would like you to buy their replacement battery pack but if you didn't disassemble this when you got it, you probably don't know that the cells are standard D Size 3 Volt Lithium Sulfur Dioxide (LiSO2) cells made by Saft, P/N LO26SX , and replacement requires simple disassembly and no soldering.

Aviation outlets charge $153 and up (some want to tack on HAZMAT shipping for another $35) for the replacement pack. You can buy the cells only for $71.80 and $9.95 shipping and in a few minutes be on your way. In fact I bought 3 sets with a couple of local RVators and we split the shipping cost 3 ways.

Step 1 - Order the correct battery cells (might be a good idea to verify your ELT has the same cells I did before ordering). The cheapest place I found was batteries2batteries.com: http://www.battery2batteries.com/saft-lo26sx-battery-3v-lithium-d-cell/

Step 2 - Remove the ELT from the aircraft. Before you do this it might be a good idea to perform a self test, to make sure it is working before doing anything to it. The current manual outlining the self test procedure can be found here: http://www.ackavionics.com/pdf/E-04_REV_1.7_SINGLE_PAGE_REDUCED.pdf

Once that is done, take note of how the unit is anchored and how the cables are secured and particularly how the GPS input connector is secured. You will need to remove the BNC antenna connector and the modular telephone style jack to the RCPI (Remote Control Panel Indicator).

Step 3 - Switch the ELT to "OFF"

Step 4 - Mark your ELT. ACK claims there are features to prevent improper clocking of the battery but I didn't see any on mine so I marked all 3 pieces to be sure. If you did clock things wrong you could install the battery backwards (and ruin your ELT) or clock it in such a way that there is no connection made to the battery - so it will not function. So I marked all 3 components prior to disassembly. I marked them with "TOP" so it would be sure to go back into the tray in the same orientation.
20160326_152731.jpg



This shows the cells being removed. Note that there are no polarity signs!
20160326_152239.jpg



Step 5 - Add polarity signs so you don't install the cells backwards! (note that it's best to do this before removing the cells)
20160326_152702.jpg



Step 6 - Carefully inspect the base of the pack housing and the cap with the battery contacts protruding through to ensure there is no corrosion that would prevent electrical connections between cells or between the battery pack and the transmitter. Then install the new cells:
20160326_153544.jpg



Step 7 - inspect the two O-rings and replace if they are cracked or overly stretched. Use some silicone O-ring grease on the O-rings and carefully install the cap on the battery pack. The springs pushing up on the cells will make this tricky as you have to push down on the cap to get the screws started. Use blue loctite and tighten the screws holding the cap of the battery pack to the base evenly, a couple of turns at a time on each screw. ACK's manual says 3.5-4.0 in-Lbs. Note the sticker for the SAR folks if you ever set one of these off inadvertently:
20160326_153942.jpg



Step 8 - Verify polarity and voltage for the reassembled battery pack. I also checked the old batteries to compare voltage and they were within .01V of each other. ACK's manual has a more in-depth test procedure with a load test using an automotive light bulb which is a good idea as long as you don't run it for very long.
20160326_154548.jpg



Step 9 - Inspect the transmitter PCB (Printed Circuit Board) for corrosion or damage, particularly where the battery electrodes interface with the transmitter PCB. Reinstall the transmitter onto the battery pack using the same screw torque and blue loctite on the screws - again tightening evenly.

Step 10 - Mark the new expiration date on the outside of the pack.
20160326_153234.jpg



Step 11 - Now might be a good time to verify the GPS signal is reaching the ELT in accordance with the procedure in the installation manual, if your installation provides GPS to the ELT. Then put the switch in the "ARM" postion, install the red cap, and reinstall the ELT in the aircraft. Perform a self-test of the unit prior to making a log entry with the new ELT battery expiration date and placing the unit back in service.
20160326_160416.jpg


ACK claims that cell replacement is forbidden by the battery TSO (TSO-C142a) and your ELT will not be airworthy if you do this. But feel free to but check the TSO yourself; I could find no such language: http://tinyurl.com/ze2vb7q

However, this is not to be taken lightly; this HAS to work when called upon, so if you are not 100% confident in your ability to do this job properly, then buy the replacement pack for the extra money and be done with it. I would recommend that at a minimum, this should be done under the supervision of an IA, A&P, or repairman authorized to work on your aircraft.

Note that there are 2 other batteries in the ELT subsystem; one in the RCPI (Remote Control Panel Indicator) and one in the audio alert indicator. The RCPI blinks and the audio alert beeps when performing an ELT self test. These batteries have a 10 year replacement (if lithium), or 5 years (if alkaline). My RCPI shipped from ACK with a lithium, and I installed a lithium in the audio alert indicator since that shipped with no battery from the factory. Thus in 5 more years everything will get replaced. It's a good idea to make a log entry indicating when those are due as well if you don't have it marked somewhere that you can't miss it.
TSO-142a replaced by TSO-142b in 2018. Link to TSO-142b: https://drs.faa.gov/browse/excelExt...56EC79A8625825D00523AA0.0001?modalOpened=true
 
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